Photography Notes - non-linear html photography notebook

//from AnnClancy//\n!!~ATF-1 Rapid Fixer\n\n''Stock Solution"\n|AmmoniumThiosulfate, 60% solution| 750 mL|\n|SodiumSulfite| 48g|\n|AceticAcidGlacial| 36 mL|\n|BoricAcid, granular| 30 g|\nAdd the acetic acid slowing with stirring. Dissolve the boric acid separtetely in a little hot water and add this last\n\nThis is to make 1 liter of stock solution\n\nFor paper, dilute 1:3, then take 2 parts of this fixer dilution and add 1 part of water. Fix paper for 3 minutes.

!!N, N+, N- Metering Exposure and Development \nAssume a "standard" scene is 5 stops.\n\nFor every stop of scene contrast ''above'' 5 ''reduce'' the film EI by ''one stop''.\nFor every stop of scene contrast ''below'' 5 ''increase'' the film EI by ''one stop''.\n<<<\nAssume film standard film EI of 200 ISO for the examples\n\n7 Stop scene range, overexpose, undevelop\nMeter at EI 50\n\n6 Stop scene range, overexpose, underdevelop\nmeter at EI 100\n\n5 Stop scene range, normal\nmeter at EI 200\n\n4 Stop scene range, underexpose, overdevelop\nmeter at EI 400\n\n3 Stop scene range, underexpose, overdevelop\nmeter at EI 800>>>

see HowtoUseDividedD-76\nsee DividedD-76\n\nDivided D-76, along with it's variations, is universal divided film developer having great capacity, long life and consistency in results and relatively panthermic (yielding similar results over a range of temperatures, particularly between 65°F and 80°F.\n\nDivided Developers are usually two baths used in succession without a rinse. After the second bath the film is put directly into an acid-hardening fixer.\n\nThe first bath contains all the developer ingredients EXCEPT the alkali, thus, no development takes place in the first bath. It is merely absorbed by the emulsion, not USED, but it is depleted by being carried away in the film. The pH is usually close to 7.0. NO alkali must be allowed in the first bath.\n\nThe second bath contains the alkali, and here is where the development actually takes place. It is USED, and has a definite capacity and must be replaced before it is exhausted.\n\nDivided D-76 offers, several advantages over the classical [[D-76]]:\n\nOver development is prevented because only a limited amount of developer is present on the film during development.\nThe negative is thinner which helps produce very fine grain.\nExcellent tonal gradation is provided by the slight compensating action of the developer.\nDevelopment times are shorter.\n\nFDD-76 is PhotographersFormulary version of Divided D-76.\nPD-76 is a [[Phenidone]] version of Divided D-76.\nVD-76 is Vestal's version of Divided D-76.\nFSD-76 is Faber's version of Divided D-76.\nAP is an acutance Phenidone divided developer.\nXAP, Reichner' Divided Developer, is the highest acutance formulation discovered.\n

#Measure the length of time it take for the highlights to appear in the developer. For example, 20 seconds\n#Divide the total development time by the highlight appearance time to find the development factor. For example, if the total development time is 2 minutes, the factor is 6: 120 / 6 = 6\n#As the development time slows, measure how long it takes for the highlights to appear. Say 25 seconds.\n#The new development time is 6 (the development factor) x 25 = 150 seconds

#Develop print as normal\n#Stop development in standard stop bath for 30 seconds\n#Fix, with constant agitation, print for 60 seconds in a working bath of 1:4, Ilford Hypam:Water\n#Wash for 5 minutes\n#~Perma-Wash for 10 minutes\n#Wash for 5 minutes\n#Dry\n\n''NB'' The fixer working bath capacity is 10 8x10 prints per liter\n

//from WynnWhite//\n<<<\nThiocarbamide, also know as thiourea, is used in this toner as the source of sulfur instead of sodium sulfide. The process is odorless but an even greater advantage is that image tone can be controlled by altering the ratio of thiocarbamide to sodium hydroxide in the redeveloper. Tones from yellowish-brown to purplish-brown can be achieved.\n\nThis currently is my toner of choice with conventional photographic papers such as Ilford Multigrade or Oriental Seagull. I have tried it with Ilford Multigrade Warmtone but, even at the greatest sodium hydroxide to thiocarbamide ratio, the image color was too yellow for my taste. I have also found that the the ratio of potassium ferricyanide to potassium bromide has an effect on the final image tone. Each can be decreased or increased. Also the time the print is left in the reducing bath is important with short immersion times making split-toning possible. With experimentation you can find just the warm tone that you are seeking. The tone variations are never ending with thiocarbamide.\n\nThe amounts listed in the reducer and toner formulas are not carved in stone and there is great latitude for experimentation. I reduce prints for one minute and then wash them for about ten minutes until all of the yellow is gone. I have read that you should print dark since some print density will be lost in the reducer. This has not been my experience and I expose my prints normally as delicate highlight detail seems to hold up well in this toner. Thiocarbamide toner is very easy to work with and success is nearly guaranteed. After the working solution has been mixed it doesn't last very long and it should be discarded after each toning session.\n//Wynn White//\n<<<\n\nsee also,\nThioCarbamideBleach, or Reducer\nThioCarbamideToner, including solution ratios

''Other names:'' Methanecabboxylic acid; ethanoic acid. \n''Description:'' Colorless, water like liquid with a pungent vinegary odor. \n!!!Precautions:\nCauses severe burns so avoid contact with liquid or vapor in the eyes, on the skin, by breathing, or on clothing. Keep bottle in a cool place and remove cap very carefully to avoid liquid or vapor contact. May be fatal if swallowed. Keep away from heat and open flame. \n!!!First Aid:\nIn case of contact with eyes, flush with plenty of water for at least 15 minutes, then get medical attention. For external contact, flush with water, then water containing sodium bicarbonate. If taken internally, give tap water, milk, or milk of magnesia. Give whites of eggs beaten with water. Do not give emetics. See a physician immediately. \n!!!Note:\nGlacial acetic acid contains at least 99.5% acetic acid; acetic acid contains 36 to 37%, by weight. Photographic grade acetic acid is 28% because glacial acetic acid cannot be added to sodium sulfite without decomposing the sulfite to form sulfur dioxide gas. Do not add glacial acetic acid to sodium thiosulfate solutions without sodium sulfite being present as the thiosulfate will sulfurize. White vinegar is a dilute solution of acetic acid, usually 3 to 6% acetic acid, although distilled vinegar may have a higher acid content. Glacial acetic acid may be diluted to 28 percent by mixing 3 parts of Glacial acetic acid with 8 parts of water. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nBlue Toner (GT-14), Fixer 6a, Stop Bath SB-1, Sepia Sulfide 221 Toner, Uranium Toner. \n

//from PatrickDignan//\n\nFX-4 is extremely close to Acufine. Compared to Kodak [[D-76]] 1:1, this developer, diluted 1:1 with the same development temperature and times provide 1 stop of speed gain, most likely caused by the [[Phenidone]]\n\nSee CrawleyFX-4

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n''Fine Grain Developer for Tank Use''\nThis developer produces negatives with fine grain, and has a long working life, making it suitable for tank use.\n|Water| 1 L|\n|[[Metol]]| 8 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, anhydrous| 125 g|\n|SodiumCarbonate. mono| 5.75 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 2.5 g|\nDo not dilute for use, develop 8 to 12 minutes at 65F.

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n''Fine Grain Developer, ~Metol-Sulfite, Soft Working''\n|Water (125F/52C| 750 mL|\n|[[Metol]]| 4.5 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, dessicated| 85 g|\n|SodiumCarbonate, mono| 1.2 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 0.5 g|\n|>|Add cold water to make 1 L|\nDevelop from 10 to 20 minutes depending on film used and contrast desired.

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n''Borax Tank Developer''\n\nThis is a fine grain ~Metol-Hydroquinone developer using Borax instead of Sodium Carbonate to obtain soft, slow fine-grained development.\n|Water| 1 L|\n|[[Metol]]| 1.5 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, anhydrous| 80 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 3 g|\n|[[Borax]]| 3 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 0.5 g|\nDo not dilute for use. Development time 10 to 15 minutes at 65F.

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n''Tropical Fine Grain Developer''\n|Water (125F/52C)| 750 mL|\n|[[Metol]]| 6 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, dessicated| 100 g|\n|SodiumCarbonate| 12 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 3 g|\n|SodiumSulfate, anhydrous| 40 g|\n|>|Add cold water to make 1L|\nadd SodiumSulfate slowly to avoid caking@@\n!!!Developing Time\n65F (18C) - 9 to 11 minutes\n75F (24C) - 6 minutes\n85F (29C) - 3 minutes\n

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n''High Contrast Developer for Film and Plates''\n|Water (125F/52C)| 750 mL|\n|[[Metol]]| 1.5 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, dessicated| 18 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 2.5 g|\n|PotassiumCarbonate| 18 g|\n|>|Add cold water to make 1 L|\nDevelopment time 4 to 5 minutes

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n''~M-H Tank Developer''\nA long lasting, efficient tank developer yielding negatives of high contrast.\n|Water| 1 L|\n|[[Metol]]| 0.8 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, anhydrous| 45 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 1.2 g|\n|SodiumCarbonate, monohydrated| 8 g|\n|PotassiumMetabisulfite| 4 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 1.5 g|\nDo not dilute for use. Develop 15 to 20 minutes at 65F

//from Ole Tjugen//\n|Water| 750 mL|\n|2% GoldChloride| 55 mL|\n|5% [[Thiourea]]| 55 mL|\n|>|Water to make 1L|\n

//from Morgan and Morgan//\nGlycin based, normal contrast\n|Water (125F/52C)| 750 mL|\n|SodiumSulfite, dessicated| 12.5 g|\n|[[Glycin]]| 2 g|\n|PotassiumCarbonate| 25 g|\n|Add cold water to make 1 L|\nDevelop medium speed films from 10 to 12 minutes at 68F/20C.

//recommeded by Don Bryant for making an alkaline fix for VDB//\n\n|SodiumThiosulfate| 50g|\n|SodiumCarbonate| 10g|\n|SodiumSulfite| 2g|\n|Water| 750g|\n\n*When dissolved, add water to make a liter.\n*Two fixing baths of 2 minutes each is optimum for maximum archivalbility.\n*A fresh fixing bath of 2 liters will be exhausted after 2 or 3 8x10 prints!

[[Cyanotype]]\n[[Palladium]]\nVanDykeBrown

2, 4-DiaminophenolDihydrochloride\n!!!Other names:\nDiaminophenol; diamidophenol; 4-hydroxy-1,3-phenylenediamine; Acrol\n!!!Formula\n(NH~~2~~)~~2~~C~~6~~H~~3~~OH*2 ~HCl\n!!!Description:\nThe free base, 2,4-diaminophenol, is an unstable crystalline material, darkening in exposure to air, and only slightly soluble in acetone and alcohol, less soluble in chloroform and ether. The crystalline dihydrochloride is more stable but the white to grayish powder slowly darkens, and in solution deteriorates rapidly to a dark brown solution. This dark brown oxidation product hardens gelatin. Amidol is very soluble in water (27.5 g / 100 mL at 59F/15C), only slightly soluble in alcohol, and insoluble in ether. The sulfate salt (trade naem Diamol) is also available.\n!!!Precautions:\nCare should be used in handling Amidol and prolonged or repeated contact avoided at irritation may result. Avoid contact with eyes, skin, and clothing. Wear safety glasses and glovers during handling and use, Amidol produces dark stains on fingers and nails unless the hands are protected. Keep dry compound in a tightly stoppered bottle protected from air and light. Do not inhale dust or vapor and do not swallow.\n!!!First Aid:\nIn case of contact , flush with plenty of water for at least 15 minutes. Get medical attention if contact with skin has been prolonged or repeated, if inhalation of vapor or dust has been continued, or if the compound has been swallowed. Get medical attendtion as a variety of allergic reactions, dermatitis, asthmatic and respiratory ailments, blood disturbances and other toxic reactions may occur.\n!!!Uses\nAs a developing agent for photographic film and papers, long prized for its blue-black image tones on photographic papers and it fine grain, acid developers for film.

!!!Other names:\nAmmonium aluminium sulfate; aluminium ammonium sulfate dodecahydrate. \n!!!Description:\nColorless crystals, white granules, or powder with a strong, astringent taste melt at 94.5°C, lose 20 H~~2~~O at 120°C, and dehydrate completely at about 250°C. Solubility is 15.1 grams in 100 ml water at 20°C with greater solubility in hot water (66.6 grams at 60°C). Freely soluble in glycerol and dilute acid but almost insoluble in alcohol. The pH of an aqueous solution (0.05 molecular weight in 1000 ml solution) is 4.6 \n!!!Precautions:\nAmmonium alum is considered only moderately toxic but may cause dermatitis by skin irritation because of the release of sulfuric acid. Inhalation and ingestion of large quantities cause serious upset. Keep in closed container and avoid breathing dust. Use only with adequate ventilation. Avoid contact with eyes, skin, and clothing. Wear safety glasses and rubber, or similar gloves when handling. Wash after handling. Do not swallow. \n!!!First Aid:\nIf contact is made with the skin, flush thoroughly with plenty of water, using soap, if available. If contact is made with eyes, flush with plenty of water for 15 minutes. Call a physician. If inhaled or ingested, dilute by drinking a large volume of water, then call a physician immediately for further treatment. Get medical help if skin dermatitis develops. \n!!!Uses:\nAs a hardener in acid fixing baths or sometimes as a seperate hardner for gelatin. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nUranium Toner (Kodak T-9). \n

!!!Other names: \nAmmonium sesquicarbonate; crystal ammonia; hartshorn; rock ammonia; sal volatile. \n!!!Description:\nThe double salt of ammonium bicarbonate and ammonium carbonate, consists of colorless, translucent plates or masses, or white powder, with a strong odor of ammonia (ingredient of smelling salts). The solid is unstable in air, evolving ammonia and carbon dioxide to leave ammonium bicarbonate, becoming white and powdery on the outside to form a solid of uncertain composition. \n!!!Precautions:\nKeep container tightly closed and store in a cool place. Do not heat as irritating fumes will be evolved. Use with adequate ventilation and do not breathe the fumes. Avoid contact with eyes, skin, and clothing. Avoid breathing fumes from solid or solutions as irritation may result. \n!!!First Aid:\nIn case of contact, immediately flush eyes or skin with plenty of water for at least 15 minutes. Remove contaminated clothing and shoes. Wash clothing before re-use. Call a physician, especially an eye specialist, about eye contamination. If inhaled, remove at once to an area of uncontaminated air. If swallowed, have the person drink large quantities of water followed by dilute vinegar, lemon juice, cider, or other weak acid fruit juices. Call a physician about further treatment. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nTwo Bath Redevelopment Toners. \n

!!!Description:\nOderless, colorless crystals or crystalline masses, or white crystalline powder or granules, have a cool, salty taste and a slight tendency to take up water from moist air and then cake. The compound is incompatible with acids (hydrogen chloride evolved), alkalis (ammonia evolved), silversalts (fulminating silver compound formed), and lead salts. \n!!!Precautions:\nKeep in a tightly closed container. Seperate from acids, alkalis, and silver salts. At elevated or fire temperatures avoid breathing the ammonia and hydrogen chloride released. Use water for fighting fires. Wear safety glasses and rubber glovers to avoid contact with the solution. Solution attacks iron, brass, bronze, and copper surfaces so alloy or lead-lined apparatus should be used. \n!!!First Aid:\nIf contact is made with eyes or skin, flush with plenty of water. Call a physician if swallowed as nausea are vommiting is possible side effects. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nDassonville T-55 Direct Selenium Toner. \n

!!!Other names:\nAmmonium sulfocyanate; ammonium sulphocyanate; ammonium sulfocanide; ammonium sulphocyanide; ammonium rhodanide. \n!!!Description:\nThe colorless crystals are stable but readily absorb enough water from the air to become wet. The compound is available as a solid of 98 to 99% purity but often sold as a 55 to 60% solution in water to avoid the uncertainties of the absorption of water. \n!!!Precautions:\nKeep container tightly closed and store in a cool, dry place. Avoid contact with the eyes, skin, and respiratory system. Wear safety glasses and rubber gloves. Wash thoroughly after handling as the compound may cause skin eruptions. May be harmful if inhaled or swallowed. \n!!!First Aid:\nIf contact is made with eyes or skin, flush immediatly with plenty of water. Call a physician about eye and skin irritations. If swallowed call a physician at once. \n!!!Photographic Formulas: \nGAF231GoldToner, IlfordIT-4GoldToner. \n\n

!!!Other names:\nAmmonium hyposulfite; ammonium hypo. \n!!!Description:\nAmmonium thiosulfate occurs as anhydrous, colorless, or white crystals that are very water soluble in water (173 grams in 100 ml water at 20°C or 205 grams at 40°C). Two forms are available for photographic use; crystal solid (at least 97% by weight) and an aqueous solution (60% by weight). \n!!!Precautions:\nKeep container tightly closed and store in a cool dry place; avoid breathing dust. \n!!!First Aid:\nIf contact is made with eyes or skin, flush immediatly with plenty of water. Call a physician about eye and skin irritations. If large quantities are swallowed call a physician at once. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nTF-3 Alkaline Film Fixer, TF-4 Archival Rapid Fixer. \n

http://aclancyphotography.com

same as GAF231GoldToner

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n\nA 0.2% Solution of Kodak Anti-Fog No 1 may be made by dissolving 15 g of this chemical in 16 fl oz of water, about 125F (1 g in 500 mL at 52C) \n\nCool the stock solution before use.

!!!Other names:\nVitamin C, cevitamic acid, and many trademarked names. \n!!!Description:\nWhite crystals or powder. Reasonably stable in air when compound is dry but darkens gradually on exposure to light. Water solutions are oxidized rapidly by air, especially in the presence of alkali, copper, or iron. \n!!!Precautions:\nProtect from air, light, and heat. No other special treatment is necessary. \n!!!Note:\n(iso-Ascorbic acid [D-(-)-Araboascorbic acid], has very low antiscorbutic activity but may be substituted for ascorbic acid for some photographic uses. Sodium ascorbate, the sodium salt of Vitamin C, may also be used in place of ascorbic acid. One gram of this crystalline compound is equivalent to 0.8890 gram ascorbic acid, or 1 gram of the acid is equivalent to 1.1248 grams of sodium ascorbate. Sodium ascorbate is very soluble in water (62 grams dissolve in 100 ml water at 23°C) but the solution is unstable in air. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nChris Patton's E-76, Mytol Film Developer (Xtol Substitute), Chris Patton's E-72 Print Developer, \n

!!!Other names:\n1,2,3-Benzotriazole; 1-H-benzotriazole; azimidobenzene; benzene azimide; benzisotriazole. \n!!!Description:\nThe white, odorless, crystalline powder, melting point 98.5°C, is only slightly soluble in water but soluble in alcohol, benzene, chloroform, dimethylformamide, and toluene. \n!!!Precautions:\nKeep container closed. Use with adequate ventilation. Do not inhale dust or vapor from solutions. Benzotriazole may cause irritation so avoid contact with eyes, skin, or clothing. Wear safety glasses or goggles and rubber or similar gloves when handling. Do not swallow as benzotriazole is believed to be moderately toxic. \n!!!First Aid:\nIf inhaled, remove from exposure. If contact is made with eyes or skin, flush with plenty of water to remove traces of compound. Irrigate eyes thoroughly, then call a physician or an eye specialist. Remove contaminated clothing and reuse only after washing. If swallowed, induce vomiting by giving a glass of lukewarm, salty water (one tablespoonful of common table salt per glass). Call a physician at once. \n!!!Uses:\nBenzotriazole has been primarily used as antifoggant in photographic developers; as a fog restrainer for developers used to process outdated (foggy) photographic paper; as an addition to developers to produce blue-black developed image tones. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nFX 37 Film Developer, Divided D-76 Film Developer (Variations), Print Developer 130 Adams Version, \n

A toning process where a finished print is bleached and redeveloped in a toner or paper developer. Altering the bleach time and composition as well as the composition of the toning (developer) bath impacts final print tone and color.

Used to bleach out the silver on a print prior to redevelopment. (used in BleachandTone processes)

//from AnnClancy//\n\n|Distilled water, 125F| 750 mL|\n|AmmoniumThiocyanate| 105 g|\n|1% GoldChlorideSolution| 60 mL|\n|>|Water to make 1 L|\nAfter toning wash prints for 10 to 20 minutes.

see SodiumBorate

!!!Other names:\nOrthoboric acid; boracic. \n!!!Description:\nBoric acid is available as colorless, odorless, transparent, waxy crystals or white granules or powder which lose 1 H~~2~~O upon slow heating to form metaboric acid. \n!!!Precautions:\nThe handling of boric acid is generally not considered hazardous. Ingestion or absorption of boric acid through burned or abraded skin can result in poisioning, even death. Protect the eyes and skin from contact with the acid. Wear safety glasses and protective rubber gloves. \n!!!First Aid:\nIf contact occurs with the eyes or the skin, flush with copious amounts of water for about 15 minutes. If swallowed or if contact with open wounds is made, call a physician immediately. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nBurton 195 Film Developer. \n

!!!Other names:\nPyrocatechol; pyrocatechin; 1,2-benzenediol; 1,2-dihy-drpxybenzene; o-dihydroxybenzene; 1,2-phendiol; Kachin (trade name). \n!!!Description:\nColorless or white crystalline compound that has a slight phenolic odor and sublimes or volatilizes with steam. The solid discolors upon exposure to air and light. Alkaline solutions rapidly turn brown or black. \n!!!Precautions:\nCatechol is considered more toxic than hydroquinone. It should be handled with care, and contact with the skin, eyes, and inhalation of the dust should be avoided. Wear safety glasses and rubber gloves when handling the solid or solutions. Wash thoroughly after handling. Do not swallow. \n!!!First Aid:\nIn case of contact, immediately flush eyes or skin with plenty of water for at least 15 minutes. If swallowed, induce vomiting by giving a glass of water containing two teaspoonfuls of table salt. Call a physician at once. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nModified Windisch Catechol Film Developer, Pyrocat-HD Film Developer, Warm-Tone Redeveloper. \n

//from PatrickDignan//\n\n|!You Have|!The Formula Specifies|!Multiply the Specified Amoount by|\n|[[Borax]] (5H~~2~~O) - Sodium Borate, Pentahydrated|Borax (10H~~2~~O) - Sodium Borate, Decahydrated | 0.76|\n|[[Borax]] (10H~~2~~O)|Borax (5H~~2~~O)| 1.31|\n|SodiumCarbonate, Monohydrated|SodiumCarbonate, anhydrous | 1.20|\n|~|SodiumCarbonate, crystals| 2.33|\n|~|PotassiumCarbonate, anhydrous*| 0.90|\n|PotassiumCarbonate, anhydrous|SodiumCarbonate, monohydrated*| 1.12|\n|SodiumHydroxide|PotassiumHydroxide| 1.40|\n|PotassiumHydroxide|SodiumHydroxide | 0.72|\n|Kodalk, Balanced Alkali, SodiumMetaborate|SodiumCarbonate, monohydrated| 1.70|\n|SodiumCarbonate, monohydrated|Kodalk, Balanced Alkali, SodiumMetaborate| 0.59|\n|AceticAcidGlacial|AceticAcid 28%| 0.28|\n|~|SodiumDiacetate, anhydrous (in g)| 0.43|\n|AceticAcid. 28%|AceticAcidGlacial| 3.54|\n|~|SodiumDiacetate, anyhydrous (in g)| 1.52|\n|SodiumThiosulfate, crystal (5H~~2~~O)|SodiumThiosulfate, anhydrous| 1.57|\n|SodiumThiosulfate, anhydrous|SodiumThiosulfate, crystal (5H~~2~~O)| 0.64|\n|PotassiumBromide|SodiumBromide| 1.16|\n|SodiumBromide|PotassiumBromide| 0.86|\n|SodiumAcetate, anhydrous|SodiumAcetate, crystal| 0.60|\n|SodiumAcetate, crystal|SodiumAcetate, anhydrous| 1.66|\n|SodiumSulfate, anhydrous|SodiumSulfate, crystal| 0.44|\n|SodiumSulfate, crystal|SodiumSulfate, anhydrous| 2.27|\n|SodiumSulfite, anhydrous|SodiumSulfite, crystal| 0.50|\n|SodiumSulfite, crystal|SodiumSulfite, anhydrous| 2.00|\n|PotassiumThiocyanate|SodiumThiocyanate| 1.00|\n|SodiumThiocyanate|PotassiumThiocyanate| 1.00|\n|[[Benzotriazole]] ([[Anti-Fog#1]])|[[6-NitrobenzimidazoleNitrate]] ([[Anti-Fog#2]])| 1.00|\n|[[6-NitrobenzimidazoleNitrate]] ([[Anti-Fog#2]])|[[Benzotriazole]] ([[Anti-Fog#1]])| 1.00|\n|*not recommended for all applications|c

ChemicalDescription\nChemicalWarnings\nChemicalResources

Type the text for 'New Tiddler'

!!!Other names:\n2-Hydroxy-1,2,3,-propanetncarboxylic acid; 8-hydroxy-tricarballylic acid. \n!!!Description:\nAnhydrous citric acid crystallizes from hot concentrated aqueous solutions in the form of odorless, colorless, and translucent crystals. \n!!!Precautions:\nCitric acid is completely metabolized in the human body, and is not considered a hazard for darkroom or laboratory use. It is a relatively strong organic acid, however, and the eyes and hands should be protected from liquid splashes or mists. Keep container tightly closed. Aqueous solutions of citric acid are mildly corrosive to carbon steels but not to stainless steels. \n!!!First Aid:\nFlush skin or eyes with plenty of water if the liquid is splashed into contact. If considerable quantities are swallowed, consult a physician. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nGold-Thiocarbamide Toner (IlfordIT-5), Fixer 24. \n

//from Wynn White's article on UnblinkingEye//\n\nThe solution requires no aging; it is ready for use directly after mixing. It tones highlights and shadows at the same rate so the print tones evenly and can be removed from the toning bath at any time. It keeps well and resists decomposition even after moderate use.\n\nFormula\n\n|GoldChlorideSolution (1%)| 12.5 mL|\n|[[Thiourea]] (1% solution)| 12.5 mL|\n|TartaricAcid| 0.12 g|\n|Distilled Water to make| 250.0 mL|\n|SodiumChloride| 5.0 g|\n\nCompounding\n\nMake up a 1% stock solution of gold chloride by dissolving one gram of gold chloride (~AuCl3HClH2O) in 100 ml of distilled water. Keep the solution in a brown bottle. Likewise, make up a 1% stock solution of thiourea. Uncontaminated, these solutions keep indefinitely. Add the thiourea solution to the 12.5 ml of gold chloride solution until the precipitate that forms is dissolved. The quantity of the thiourea solution should be slightly more than that of the gold chloride. Add the tartaric acid to 150 ml of distilled water. Add the gold thiourea solution to the acid solution and mix thoroughly. Last, add the salt, top off with water to 250 ml and stir until the solution is uniform. Bottle and label the solution.\n\n''Use this toner on a cleared washed VDB print BEFORE Fixing. Wash after toning and Fix as normal for VDB''

For use when blue/black tones are desired. This is achieved by adding Potassium phosphate to the Oxalate developer.\n\n|Water| 100 mL|\n|PotassiumOxalate| 180 g|\n|PotassiumPhosphate, monobasic| 60 g|\n\nDuring use developer termperature should be no more than 21C/70F. Higher temperatures shift image tone towards brown.

//from Richard Knoppow//\n\nThe following formulas are combination toners using KodakBrownToner\n\n!!Combination Toner\nDilute 1:3 for use\n|Water| 500 mL|\n|SodiumCarbonate, anhydrous| 160 g|\n|Kodak Brown Toner| 320 mL|\n|Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner| 80 mL|\n|>|Water to make 1L |\n!!Kodak Hue No 1\n*Use full strength\n*Repenlish with [[KSRT]] 1:5, approximately 10 mL per 10 8x10 prints\n*Capacity with replenishment: 150 8x10 prints per gallon\n|Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner| 17 mL|\n|Kodak Brown Toner| 75 mL|\n|SodiumMetaborate| 30 g|\n|>|Water to make 1L|\n!!Kodak Hue No 2\n*Use full strength\n*Replenisher: [[KSRT]] 1:20, 30ml per 10 8x10 prints\n*Capacity, with replenishment; 150 8 x 10 prints per gallon\n|Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner| 2 mL|\n|Kodak Brown Toner| 100 mL|\n|SodiumMetaborate| 8 g|\n@@A 10% sulfite stop bath should be used with both Hue 1 and 2\nas toning continues during wash.@@\n\n\n\n\n\n

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n\n!!!Avoirdupois to Metric Weight\n|!Pounds|!Ounces|!Grains|!Grams|!Kilograms|\n| ''1''| 16| 7000| 453.6| 0.4536|\n| 0.625| ''1''| 437.5| 28.35| 0.02835|\n| | | ''1''| 0.648| |\n| | 0.03527| 15.43| ''1''| 0.001|\n| 2.205| 35.27| 15430| 1000| ''1''|\n!!! US Liquid to Metric Measure\n|!Gallons|!Quarts|!Fluid Ounces|!Fluid Drams|!cc|!Liters|\n| ''1''| 4| 128| 1024| 3785| 3.785|\n| 0.25| ''1''| 32| 256| 946.3| 0.9463|\n| | | ''1''| 8| 29.57| 0.02957|\n| | | 0.125| ''1''| 3.697| 0.003697|\n| | | 0.03381| 0.2705| ''1''| 0.001|\n| 0.2642| 1.057| 33.81| 270.5| 1000| ''1''|\n!!!Conversion Factors\n{{{\nGrains per 32 fluid oz multiplied by 0.06847 = grams per Liter\nOunces per 32 fluid oz multiplied by 29.96 = grams per Liter\nPounds per 32 fluid oz multiplied by 479.3 = grams per Liter\n\nGrams per Liter multiplied by 14.60 = grains per 23 fluid oz\nGrams per Liter multiplied by 0.03338 = ounces per 32 fluid oz\nGrams per Liter multiplied by 0.002086 = pounds per 32 fluid oz\n}}}\n{{{\nGrams per Liter approximately equals ounces per 30 quarts\nGrams per Liter approximately equals pounds per 120 gallons\n}}}\n{{{\nFluid oz per 32 ounces multiplied by 31.25 = cc per Liter\ncc per Liter multiplied by 0.032 = fluid oz per 32 oz\n}}}\n{{{\ncm X 0.3937 = inches\ninches X 2.5400 = cm\n}}}\n

Copper Toner is a general purpose toner that acts by deposition of copper metal. It is capable of producing a variety of colors ranging from warm brown to chalk red. The exact tone that is obtained depends upon the length of time the paper is immersed in the toning bath, and the type of paper used. Almost all papers can be used with this toning bath, although fiber based papers are best, resin coated papers work nicely also.\n\nWarningPotassiumFerricyanide\n\n!!!Mixing the Stock Solutions \n''Stock Solution A''\n|Water (68°F/20°C)| 600 mL|\n|CopperSulfate| 4 g|\n|PotassiumCitrate| 16 g|\n|>|Water to make 1000 mL|\nPlace the water in the storage container or a mixing container and add the Copper Sulfate. Stir until the solid completely dissolves. Next add the Potassium Citrate and stir until the solid dissolves. Add water to bring the volume of the solution up to 1000 ml. Stir the final solution thoroughly.\n\n''Stock Solution B''\n|Water (68°F/20°C)| 600 mL|\n|PotassiumFerricyanide| 3.3 g|\n|PotassiumCitrate| 16 g|\n|>|Water to make 1000 mL|\n!!!Mixing the Working Solution\nMix the working solution just prior to toning. To prepare the working solution, mix equal volumes of Stock Solutions A and B. Do not dilute the working solution. Discard the working solution after a working session.\n!!!Toning the Print\nAll toners work best if the print is fixed with a non hardening fixer. Immerse the fixed and washed print in the undiluted toning solution in a plastic tray. If you start with a dry print, be sure to presoak it in water. The longer the print is immersed in the toning solution, the more the tone will appear as a red hue. If the print is allowed to remain too long in the bath the whites will turn pink. Determine the toning time with test strips. Rinse the toned print in running water for 20 minutes.

!!!Other names:\nCopper sulfate pentahydrate; copper (It) sulfate pentahydrate; Cupric sulfate ; cupric sulphate; blue vitriol; Roman vitriol; bluestone; blue copperas. \n!!!Description:\nThe pentahydrate, sometimes as pure as 99.999%, consists of large blue crystals, blue granules, or light blue powder, that slowly lose water of crystalization when exposed to air. \n!!!Precautions:\nKeep container tightly closed. Use with adequate ventilation and do not breathe dust or mists. Avoid contact with the skin or eyes because severe irritation may result. Wear safety glasses or goggles and rubber or similar impervious gloves. Wash thoroughly after handling. Do not swallow as the poisonous compound will cause serious internal irritation and may induce vomiting (300 mg of the sulfate salt is an emetic dose for an adult). \n!!!First Aid:\nIf inhaled, remove from exposure, rest, and keep warm. If contact is made with the skin or eyes, flush with plenty of water, irrigating the eyes thoroughly. If serious irritation results, call a physician. If swallowed, wash out mouth with plenty of water, then, if vomiting has not occurred, give a glass of lukewarm, salty water to produce vomiting. Call a physician at once. \n!!!Note:\nDo not confuse copper sulfate with tribasic copper sulfate \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nCopper Print Toner, Red Toner, Two Bath Redevelopment Toners. \n

//from AnnClancy//\n\nA bleach for redevelopment.\n|Cupric sulfate (CopperSulfate)| 50g|\n|SulfuricAcid concentrated*| 6.5 mL|\n|SodiumChloride| 100g|\n|>|''Cold'' water to make 1000 mL|\n@@always add acid to water@@\n

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n\n''An [[Elon]]-[[Hydroquinone]] Process Developer for Process & Panchromatic Process Films and Plates''\n|Water, 125F or 52C| 500 mL|\n|Elon ([[Metol]])| 1 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, dessicated| 75 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 9 g|\n|SodiumCarbonate, monohydrated| 30 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 5 g|\n|>| Add water to make 1 L |\nDissolve in the order given. Develop about 5 minutes in a tank or 4 minutes in a tray at 68F (20C), when less contrast is desired, the developer should be diluted with an equal volume of water.

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n\n''An [[Elon]]-[[Hydroquinone]] Tropical Developer for Films''\n|Water, 125F, 52C| 750 mL|\n|Elon ([[Metol]])| 5 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, dessicated| 52.5 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 10 g|\n|SodiumCarbonate. monohydrated| 60 g|\n|PotassiumIodide| 2 g|\n|SodiumSulfate, dessicated| 45 g|\n|>| Water to make 1L |\n|If it is preferred to use SodiumSulfate crystals, instead of dessicated sulfate, then use 105 g per L| c\nDissolve in order given.\n\nUse without dilution. Develop 6 to 7 minutes at 85F (29C) or for proportionately longer times at lower temperatures. Rinse thoroughly for 30 seconds and immerse for 3 minutes in a 5% [[Formalin]] solution. Then for wash for 1 minute, fix 5 to 10 minutes in an acid hardening bath (KodakFixingBathF-5) and wash for 15-10 minutes.

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n''A Low Contrast Tropical Developer for Fim and Plates''\n|Water (125F/52C| 750 mL|\n|[[Metol]]| 5.5 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, dessicated| 90 g|\n|Kodalk (SodiumMetaborate)| 5 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 2 g|\n|SodiumSulfate, dessicated| 45 g|\n|>|Add cold water to make 1L|

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n\n''A High Contrast High Energy Developer for Films and Plates''\n|Water, 125F or 52C| 500 mL|\n|Elon ([[Metol]])| 2 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, dessicated| 90 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 8 g|\n|SodiumCarbonate, monohydrated| 52.5 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 5 g|\n|>| Cold water to make 1 L |\nDissolve chemicals in order given.\n\nThis is a high-contrst long-life, nonstaining tank or tray developer. It causes very little chemical fog, and thus produces exceptionally "clear" negatives. Originally developed for use with X-ray materials, KodakD-19 is now recognized as excellent developer for aerial films and for use with films and plates when high maximum contrast is desired, or when it is desired to obtain high contrast with a short developing time. Its good keeping qualities when used in tanks, and its rapid development rate makes it particularly useful for press photography.\n\nThis developer is recommended for use from 65F (18C) to 70F (21C) and best results will be obtained within this range. However, acceptable results will be obtained at somewhat higher and lower termperatures.\n\nIncrease the time about 25% for tank development.\n\nReplenisher: KodakD-19R\n

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n''Replenisher for KodakD-19''\n|Water, 125F or 52 C| 500 mL|\n|Elon ([[Metol]])| 4.5 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, dessicated| 90 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 17.5 g|\n|SodiumCarbonate, monohydrated| 52.5 g|\n|SodiumHydroxide| 7.5 g|\n|>| Cold water to make 1 L |\nDissolve chemicals in order given\n\nUse without dilution and add to the developer tank in the proportion of 1 o of KodakD-19R per 100 suare inches of film processed (about 30 mL for each 8x10 sheet film).\n\nThe maximum volume of replenisher added should not be greater than the volume of the original developer.

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n''An ~Metol-Sulfite Developer for Low and Medium Contrast''\n|Water (125F/52C)| 750 mL|\n|[[Metol]]| 7.5g|\n|SodiumSulfite, dessicated| 100 g|\n|>|Add cold water to make 1 L|\nAverage developmet time is about 12 minutes in a tank or 10 minutes in a tray at 68F/20C.\n\nThis developer produces negatives of speed and graininess comparable to Kodak [[D-76]].\nIts low alkalinity and high salt content as well as its low fogging propensity make it suitable for use up to 80 or 85F, if the chome alum stop bath, Kodak [[SB-4]], is employed between development and fixing.\n\nIf used without replenishment, increase processing time by 10% after each roll of 35mm or 120 roll film (80 square inches) has been processed. The developer should be discarded after processing 4 rolls per Liter.\n\nThis developer may be replenished with Kodak [[DK-25R]], 2 mL should be added for each roll of film (80 square inches) processed. Most consistent results are obtained if it is added after each roll has been processed. With replenishment, the developer has a life of 100 rolls per gallon (or 25 rolls per Liter).\n\nA white scum of calcium sulfite frequently occurs on films processed in high sulfite, low alkalinity developers such as [[D-23]]. This sum is soluble in acid stop baths and in fresh acid fixing baths, especially if the film is well agitated. It is slowly soluble in water, and may also be wiped or sponged off wet film, although light deposits may not be noticed until the film is dry. The swell reducing acid stop baths, Kodak [[SB-5]], is especially recommended for its removal.

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n''for fine grain and low & medium contrast''\n|Water (125F/52C)| 750 mL|\n|[[Metol]]| 7.5 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, dessicated| 100 g|\n|SodiumBisulfate| 15 g|\n|>|Add cold water to make 1 L|\nUse without dilution\nAverage development time for roll films, about 20 minutes in a tank, at 68F/20C. At 75F/25C the average development time is about 11 minutes in a tank and the properties are approximateluy the same as KodakDK-20 at 68F. Grain is comparable with that obtained with the popular paraphenylene-diamine-glycin developer, but D-25 is non-toxic and non-staining.\n\nIf it is not essential to obtain minimum graininess, or if it not convenient to work at the higher temperature use half the specified quantity of sodium bisulfite. The development time will then be approximately 14 minutes at 68F. Graininess will be intermediate between that of KodakD-23 and D-25.\n\nFor replenishment, add KodakDK-25R, at the rate of 1-1/4 oz per roll for the first 50 rolls processed per gallon (12 rolls per Liter) and 3/4 oz for teh nxt 50 rolls per gallon. The developer should then be replaced with fresh solution.

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n\n''Low and Medium Contrast Developer for Photomicrography''\n|Water, 125F or 52C| 750 mL|\n|Elon ([[Metol]])| 2 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, dessicated| 100 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 5 g|\n|[[Borax]], decahydrated| 2 g|\n|Kodak AntiFogNo1, ([[Benzotriazole]]) (0.2% stock solution)| 5 mL|\n|>| Cold water to make 1 L |\nKodak D-41 may be prepared most easily by simply adding the listed quantity of Kodak AntiFogNo1 to a previously prepared solution of Kodak [[D-76]], and provides a ready means of obtaining this developer from packaged units of Kodak [[D-76]].\n\nUse without dilution and develop4 minutes tray, 5 minutes tank for low contrast, 5-1/2 minutes tray, 7 minutes tank for medium contrast.\n\n

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n\n''[[Kodalk]] Deep Tank or Machine Developer for Roll Films, Film Packs, Sheet Films and Plates''\n|Water, 125F or 52C| 750 mL|\n|Elon ([[Metol]])| 2.5 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, desiccated| 50 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 2.5 g|\n|SodiumMetaborate, Kodalk| 20 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 0.5 g|\n|>| Cold water to make 1 L |\nDissolve chemicals in the order given.\n\nDevelop for about 7 minutes at 68F (20C), in a tank of fresh developer.\n\nTray developer times for all film packs should be 20% less than tank development times.\n\nIncrease or decrease the times to control contrast.\n\nReplenish with KodakD60aTR

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n\n''[[Elon]]-[[Hydroquinone]] Developer for General Tray or Tank Use with Films and Plates''\n|Water, 125F/52C| 500 mL|\n|Elon ([[Metol]])| 3 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, desiccated| 90 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 6 g|\n|SodiumCarbonate, monohydrated| 14 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 2 g|\n|>| Cold water to make 1 L |\nDissolve the chemicals in the order given.\n\nFor //tray// use take 1 part stock to 1 part water. Develop for about 6 minutes at 68F (20C).\n\nFor //tank// use take 1 part stock to 3 parts water. At a temperature of 68F (20C) the development time is about 12 minutes. It is advisable to make up a greater quantity than is needed to fill the tank. If the developer in the tank is of normal strength but the volume has been reduced, add a sufficient quantity of the surplus solution diluted 1:3 to fill the tank.\n\nIf the strength of the solution, as well as the volume has been reduced add a sufficient quantity of the replenisher ([[D-61R]]) to adjust the development time satisfactorily.\n\nWhile this developer does not produce negatives of warm tone, they have good printing density and quality and the developer has excellent properties. It is one of the most satisfactory developers for continued use and when kept up to normal volume will give good results over a period of several weeks.

This developer is good for low contrast and maximum shadow detail.\n!!!Working Solution\n|Water (125°F/52°C)| 750 mL|\n|[[Metol]]| 2 g|\n|[[SodiumSulfite]] (dessic)| 100 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 5 g|\n|[[Borax]]| 2 g|\n|>|Cold water to make 1000 mL|\n\n!!!Usage\nDilute 1:1 and develop for 7 to 12 minutes at 68°F/20°C (for best results, do not use over 72°F/22°C). Development times using D-76 are available from most film manufacturers.\n\n!!!Note\nD-76 may be used undiluted, but there is no advantage in doing so. The negatives, while slightly finer grained, do not exhibit the same degree of sharpness or tonal scale. The "official" published formula for D-76 recommends using 29.0 grams of borax for the accelerator. However, in its packaged developer Eastman Kodak uses Balanced Alkali. If desired, Balanced Alkali may be substituted at the same weight for borax. Development time should be decreased by approximately 15% to compensate for the higher pH.\n\n!!!Variations\nD-76D uses 8.0g of borax, along with the addition of 8.0g of BoricAcid. dilute 1:1 for use at 68°f. TMX - 100 - 12 min. TMY - 400 - 12½ min. \nD-76H omits the hydroquinone and increases the amount of metol to 2.5 grams. D-76H can be used in the same way as D-76, including development times.\n\n!!!Replenisher\n[[D-76R]]

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n\n''Replenisher for Tank Use with Kodak [[D-76]]''\n|Water, 125F/52C| 750 mL|\n|Elon ([[Metol]])| 3 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, desiccated| 100 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 7.5 g|\n|[[Borax]], decahydrated| 20 g|\n|>| Cold water to make 1 L |\nDissolve chemicals in order given.\n\nIn small tank work and intermittent use, add 1 oz (30 mL) of replenisher for each 80 square inches of film processes, discarding some of the used developer if necessary. 80 square inches is equal to one 8 exposure roll of 120 film or one 36 exposure roll of 35mm film.\n\nIn deep tank work, use the replenisher without dilution and add to maintain the level of the solution. It is frequently davisabel to discard some of the developer before adding teh replenisher to maintain proper negative quality. The life of Kodak [[D-76]] will be at least 5 times greater if this replenisher is used.\n

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n\n''High Energy Developer for Underexposed Negatives''\n|Water 125F/52C| 750 mL|\n|Wood Alcohol| 48 g|\n|[[Elon]]| 14 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, desiccated| 52.5 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 14 g|\n|SodiumHydroxide (Caustic Soda)| 8.8 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 8.8 g|\n|>| Cold water to make 1 L |\nDissolve chemicals in the order given.\n\n''NOTE:'' Cold water should always be used when dissolving SodiumHydroxide (caustic soda) because considerable heat is evolved. If hot water is used the solution will boil with explosive violence and may cause serious burns if the hot alkali spatters on hands or face. It is best to dissolve sodium hydroxide separately in a small volume of water and add the solution after the [[Hydroquinone]] has been dissolved while stirring vigorously.\n\nDevelop about 5 minutess in a tray at 68F/20C\n\nThe prepared developer does not keep more than a few days. If wood alcohol is not added and the developer is diluted, teh solution is not so active as i the concentrated form. This developer gives the greatest possible density with negatives that have a minimum of exposure.

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n\n''Replenisher solution for KodakD-60a''\n|Water. 125F or 52C| 750 mL|\n|Elon ([[Metol]])| 5 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, desiccated| 50 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 10 g|\n|SodiumMetaborate, Kodalk| 40 g|\n|>| Cold water to make 1 L |\nDissolve chemicals in order given\n\nAdd the replenisher before liquid level in the developer tank has dropped more than 2 inches.\n\nThe development time will maintained approximately constant, provided 8 gallons replenisher are added per 1,000 rolls of film process (80,000 square inches, or approximately 1 fl oz (30 mL) per roll)

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n''A balanced Alkali non-Blistering Tropical Developer for Fim and Plates''\n|Water (125F/52C| 750 mL|\n|[[Metol]]| 5.5 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, dessicated| 90 g|\n|Kodalk (SodiumMetaborate)| 22.5 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 2 g|\n|SodiumSulfate, dessicated| 45 g|\n|>|Add cold water to make 1L|\nAverage time for tank development is 9 to 12 minutes at 68F/20C and 2 to 3 minutes at 90F/32C in fresh developer. When working below 75F/24C the sulfate may be ommitted if a more rapid formula is required. Development time //without// the sulfate is 5 to 7 minutes at 65F/18C. Develop 20% less when using a tray.\nWhen development is completed rinse the film or plate in water for 1 to 2 seconds only and immerse in the Tropical Hardener (KodakSB-4) for 3 minutes (omit water rinse if film tends to soften); then fix for at least 10 minutes and wash for 10 to 15 minutes in water (not over 95F/35C).

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n|Water (125F/52C| 750 mL|\n|[[Metol]]| 5 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, dessicated| 100 g|\n|SodiumMetaborate, Kodalk| 2 g|\n|SodiumThiocyanate*| 1 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 2.5 g|\n|>|Add cold water to make 1 L|\n|*Potassium (Thiocyanate) Sulfocyanate may be substituted|c\nAverage development time is about 15 minutes at 68F/20C, in a tank of fresh developer\n \n

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n''Replenisher for KodakD-23 and KodakD-25''\n|Water (125F/52C)| 750 mL|\n|[[Metol]]| 10 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, dessicated| 100 g|\n|SodiumMetaborate, Kodalk| 20 g|\n|>|Add cold water to make 1 L|\n!!!For use with KodakD-23 Developer\nAdd 3/4 oz (22 mL) of the replenisher for each roll of 36 exposure 35mm film , or 8 exposure 120 or 620, or equivalent (80 square inches) discarding some used developer if necessary to keep the same volume.\n!!!For use with KodakD-25 Developer\nThe replenisher should be added at the rate of 1-1/2 oz (45 mL) per roll of 80 square inches for the first 50 rolls per gallon (12 rolls per Liter). For the next 50 rolls per gallon (12 per Liter) add only 3/4 oz (22 mL).\nLoss of shadow detail becomes excessive after 100 rolls per gallon (25 rolls per Liter) have been processed and the developer should be considered exhausted and discarded at this point.

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n\n''Kodalk Developer for Roll Film Packs, Professional Films and Plates''\n|Water, 125F or 52C| 500 mL|\n|Elon ([[Metol]])| 2.5 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, dessicated| 30 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 2.5g|\n|SodiumMetaborate, Kodalk| 10 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 0.5g|\n|>| Cold water to make 1 L |\nDissolve chemicals in order given.\n\nFor tank development of roll film packs, and other sheet films and plates use without dilution.\n\nDevelop 5 to 10 minutes at 68F (20C). For tray development decrease time about 20%.\n\nReplenish with KodakDK-50R

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n\n''for use with KodakDK-50''\n|Water, 125F or 52C| 750 mL|\n|Elon ([[Metol]])| 5 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, dessicated| 30 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 10 g|\n|SodiumMetaborate, Kodalk| 40 g|\n|>| Cold water to 1 L |\nDissolve chemical in order given\n\nIf the developer is diluted with an equal amount of water, the replenisher should be diluted as well; otherwise use it full strength. Add replenisher to the tank as needed to maintain the level of the solution. If density of the negative is not maintained, discard some of the developer and replace with replenisher,

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n\n''Kodak Aerial Film Developer''\n|Water, 125F/52C| 750 mL|\n|Elon ([[Metol]])| 1.25 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, dessicated| 25 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 1.25 g|\n|SodiumMetaborate, Kodalk| 10 g|\n|Kodak AntiFogNo1 (0.2% stock solution)| 8 mL|\n|PotassiumBromide| 0.25 g|\n|>| Add water to make 1 L |\nDissolve the chemicals in the order given.\n\nUse without dilution. Develop in a tank of fresh developer for about 20 minutes for high contrast, 13 minutes for medium contrast or 6 minutes for low contrast at 68F (20C).\n\nWhen negatives of higher contrast ae wanted, develop in Kodak [[D-19]]; for low contrast, use Kodak [[D-76]] for 15 minutes at 68F (20C).

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n\n''P-aminophenol [[Hydroquinone]] Developer for Film, Plates and Paper''\n|Water, 125F/52C| 500 mL|\n|P-AminophenolHydrochloride| 5 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, desiccated| 30 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 2.5 g|\n|Kodalk (SodiumMetaborate)| 20 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 0.5 g|\n|>| Water to make 1 L |\nDissolve chemicals in order given.\n\nDevelop rolls film in trays about 7-1/2 minues or in tanks about 9 minutes at 68F(20C).\n\nDevelop professional and sheet film in tanks about 6 minutes and in trays about 5 minutes at 68F/20C.\n\nFor colder tones, double the amount of SodiumMetaborate and develop for 2 minutes at 68F(20C)\n\nFor warm tones on paper use without dilution and develop for 2 minutes at 68F(20C)\n\nIn either case, the tones given with developer aer slightly warmer than the normal tones of [[D-52]] and [[D-72]].\n\nRecommended also as a substitute for [[Metol]]-[[Hydroquinone]] developers for those subject to skin irritation due to [[Elon]] ([[Metol]], Pictol, etc)

Type the text for 'Darkroom'

TableOfContents

//from Lee Carmichael//\n\n''4L Stock Solution''\n|Water, 125F| 2 L|\n|[[Metol]]| 10 g|\n|SodiumSulfite Anhydrous| 150 g|\n|PotassiumCarbonate Anhydrous| 200 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 100 g *|\n|>|Water to make 4 liters|\n *The liberal use of Potassium bromide is encourged, even in excess of the formula.\n\n''Working Solution''\nDilute 1 part stock, 2 parts water.\nAdjust exposure to produce desired print density when developed for 2 minutes at 68F.\nStock formula produces warm blacks without a noticeable "brown" look.

//from PatrickDignan//\n\n''Solution A''\n|Water| 750 mL|\n|SodiumSulfite, anhydrous| 35 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 6 g|\n|[[Phenidone]]| 0.2 g|\n|SodiumBisulfite| 6 g|\n|>|Water to make 1 L|\n''Solution B''\n|Water| 750 mL|\n|SodiumSulfite| 65 g|\n|SodiumMetaborate| 20 g|\n|>|Water to make 1 L|\n\nInstructions and results are the same as Diafine\n\nSubstitute 20 g [[Borax]] for SodiumMetaborate the results are simialr to D76 with the advantages of a two bath developer.

//from AnnClancy//\n\nA Dichromate bleach for re-development\n\n''Solution A''\nPotassiumDichromate 5%\n\n''Solution B''\nHydrochloricAcid 10%\n\nUse 1 part A + 1 Part B + 6 parts water\n\nWash time is long, best to use warm water and a bath of 3% sodium carbonate\nThis bleach can be used to help modern papers split with selenium\n#Bleach print\n#wash\n#re-develop with a different developer\n#Wash\n#tone in selenium\n#wash\n

!!!Other names:\nOxydiethanol. \n!!!Description:\nis a colorless, almost odorless, viscous liquid that absorbs water from the air. \n!!!Precautions:\nThe liquid is a stable chemical, not flammable, and neither appreciably irritating to the eyes or skin nor absorbed through the skin in significant amounts unless extensive and prolonged skin contact occurs. Inhalation of toxic concentrations at room temperature is impossible but hazardous prolonged inhalation can occur from heated or misted solutions. Ingestion of substantial amounts can result in fatal poisoning. Keep containers closed and clearly labeled as to contents; use adequate ventilation when using, especially if the liquid is heated or in a mist or fog. \n!!!First Aid:\nOnly the normal safe practices are necessary for the darkroom or laboratory. Flush eyes or skin with plenty of water if contact is made. If ingested, get medical attention at once. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nRaphaelson GPQ Liquid Concentrate. \n

see AboutDividedD-76\nsee HowtoUseDividedD-76\n!!!Bath A\n| !Chemical | !FDD-76 | !PD-76 | !VD-76 | !FSD-76 | !AP | !XAP |\n|>|>|>|>|>|>|Water (95°F) 750 mL|\n|[[Phenidone]]| - | 0.3 g| - | - | 0.7 g| 0.7 g|\n|[[Metol]]| 4 g| - | 2 g| 2 g| - | 1.8 g|\n|SodiumSulfite| 100.0 g| 100.0 g| 100.0 g| 50.0 g| 100.0 g| 100.0 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 0.3 g| 1.0 g| - | 1.0 g| - | - |\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 7.5 g| 5.0 g| 5.0 g| 5.0 g| 5.0 g| 5.0 g|\n|[[Benzotrizole]]| - | 0.2 g| - | - | 1.2 g| 1.2 g|\n|SodiumBisulfite| - | 19.0 g| - | - | 20.0 g| 20.0 g|\n|>|>|>|>|>|>|Water to make 1000 mL|\n!!!Bath B\n|!Chemical|!FDD-76|!PD-76|!VD-76|!FSD-76|!AP|!XAP|\n|>|>|>|>|>|>|Water (95°F) 750 mL|\n|SodiumMetaborate| - | - | - | - | - | - |\n|[[Borax]]| 60.0 g| 50.0 g| 2.0 g| 60.0 g| - | - |\n|SodiumCarbonate (mono)| - | - | - | - | 12.0 g| 12.0 g|\n|SodiumSulfite| - | - | 50.0 g| - | 100.0 g| 100.0 g|\n|PotassiumIodide (0.1%)| -| -| -| -| 10.0 mL| 10.0 mL|\n|PotassiumBromide| - | - | - | - | 0.5 g| 0.5 g|\n|>|>|>|>|>|>|Water to make 1000 mL|\n!!!Mixing the Solutins\nFor Bath A, dissolve a pinch of Sodium sulfite first, then dissolve the Phenidone and/or the Metol. Make certain it is completely dissolved before adding and dissolving the other ingredients in order.\n\nPotassium Iodide can be made into a 0.1% solution by taking 1.0 gram of Potassium Iodide and dissolving it in water brought up to 1.0 liter total volume.\n\nUse Distilled (or De-ionized) Water for all Baths.\n!!!Shelf Life \nThe shelf life of Bath (A) in a full stoppered bottle is about six months. The shelf life of Bath (B) in a full stoppered bottle is about three months.

//from AnnClancy//\n\nfrom blue tones on chloride papers\n|Water| 750 mL|\n|Gold chloride| 1 g|\n|Potassium thiocyanate| 6 g|\n|>|Water to make 1L|

\n\n<div class="toolbar" macro="toolbar +saveTiddler closeOthers -cancelTiddler deleteTiddler"></div>\n<div class="title" macro="view title"></div>\n<div class="editLabel">Title</div><div class="editor" macro="edit title"></div>\n<div class="editLabel">Tags</div><div class="editor" macro="edit tags"></div>\n<div class="editorFooter"><span macro="message views.editor.tagPrompt"></span><span macro="tagChooser"></span></div>\n<div class="editor" macro="edit text"></div>\n<br/>\n

//from PatrickDignan//\n\nThis developer was compounded for large negatives for enlargements to 6 or 10 diameters with maximum emulsion speed. It will produce relatively high density, which is needed. With miniature negatives, half the normal exposure was suggested.\n|Water| 900 mL|\n|[[Metol]]| 5 g|\n|SodiumSulfite| 100 g|\n|Glycin| 5 g|\n|Borax| 10 g|\n|>|Water to make 1L|\n''Development time:'' 70F 4-1/2 to 22 minutes depending on emulsiopn type\n

True Black Tones with Chloride or Chlorobromide papers\n|Water| 900 mL|\n|SodiumSulfite| 80 g|\n|SodiumPhosphateTribasic| 120 g|\n|Glycin| 25 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 3 g|\n|>|Water to make L|\nDilue 1:3 with water\nDevelopment time 3 to 4 minutes

//from PatrickDignan//\n\nFor dense rich blacks\n!!!A Bath\n|Pyrocatechol| 20 g|\n|SodiumSulfite| 40 g|\n|>| Water to make 1L|\n!!!B Bath\n|PotassiumCarbonate| 120 g|\n|>|Water to make 1L|\n\nWhen developing chloride or slow chlorobromide papers mix 1:2:1, A:B:Water.\nAdd 1 to 3 g bromide per L of working solution to produce richer black tones.

//from PatrickDignan//\n\nProduces delicate gradation\n|Water| 900 mL|\n|SodiumSulfite| 25 g|\n|[Amidol]| 6 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 0.8 g|\n|>|Water to make 1L|\n\n@@In fully stoppered bottles this developer will only keep a few days.@@ It is best made up fresh.\nFor chloride contact paper use full strength for 1 minute.\nFor fast chlorobromide paper dilute 1:2, develop 3 to 7 minutes at 65F, at 68Fto 75F developement time can be cut to 1 to 3 minutes.

//from PatrickDignan//\n\nThe followingconcentrated developer can be used to process ~Tri-X to a contrast index of 0.4 (normal ASA 400) or it can be used to process Tri-X to an ASA of 2500.\n\n|Water (125F)| 500 mL|\n|[[Metol]]| 10 g|\n|[[Pyrocatechol]] 5 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, anhydrous| 100 g|\n|PotassiumCarbonate, anhydrous| 75 g|\n|[[Benzotriazole]]| 0.1 g|\n|PotassiumIodide 0.2%| 20 mL|\n|>|Water to make 1 L|\nStore in small bottle to exclude air and stop oxidation, slight discoloration towards tan does not affect results.\n!!!~Tri-X ISO 400\nDilute stock 1:20 with water.\nProcess 12 minutes at 68F, with normal agitation\n!!!~Tri-X ISO 2500\nDilute stock 1:20 with water.\nProcess 12 minutes at 80F\nDilute Stock

see [[Metol]]

Type the text for 'Exposure'

//from PatrickDignan//\n\n''A High Acutance Developer''\n|Water| 500 mL|\n|[[Metol| 0.5 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, anhydrous| 5 g|\n|SodiumCarbonate|, monohydrate| 3 g|\n|PotassiumIodide, 0.001%Solution| 5 mL|\n|>|Water to make 1 L|\nThis is a one shot developer.\n\nTo make a 0.001% Solution:\n#1 g to 1L Water\n#100 mL from step 1 and dilute to 1 L\n#100 mL from step 2 and dilute to 1 L\nThis will be a 0.001% solution\n

//from PatrickDignan//\n''Increase ASA 80 to 100%''\n|Water| 700 mL|\n|[[Phenidone]]| 0.25 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 5 g|\n|[[Glycin]| 1.5 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, anhydrous| 125 g|\n|[[Borax]] (10H~~2~~O)| 2.5 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 0.5 g|\n|>|Water to make 1 L|\nDissolve the Hydroquinone with the Phenidone at 68F. Use the times listed for CrawleyFX-3. This developer was compounded to give "fullest maximum speed increase with the minimum granularity increase."

//from PatrickDignan//\n''CrawleyFX-1 Modified''\n|Water| 700 mL|\n|[[Metol]]| 0.5 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, anhydrous| 45.9 g|\n|SodiumCarbonate, monohydrate| 3 g|\n|>|Water to make 1 L|\nUse on slow films (eg Veripan). The solvent action of the sulfite removes surface flare and image spread. Faster films show loss of definition and grain disasdvantage.\n\nDevelopment time 2/3 of CrawleyFX-1 at 68F.

//from PatrickDignan//\n''~Phenidone-Hydroquinone version of Kodak [[D-76]]\nIncrease ASA 30%''\n|Water| 700 mL|\n|[[Phenidone]]| 0.1 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 6 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, anhydrous| 100 g|\n|[[Borax]]| 2.5 g|\n|SodiumBisulfite| 0.35 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 1.6 g|\n|>|Water to make 1 L|\nDevelop at 68F using the same times as Kodak [[D-76]] or Ilford [[ID-11]].\nIt is claimed that ~FX-18 has slightly higher resolving power, a slight reduction in grain and minimal spead increase allowing use at stock strength without soeed loss (over KodakD-76)

//from PatrickDignan//\n''~Phenidone-Hydroquinone version of Kodak [[D-76]]\nNormal ASA''\n|Water| 700 mL|\n|[[Phenidone]]| 0.75 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 7 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, anhydrous| 100 g|\n|>|Water tomake 1 L|\nDevelop at 68F, same times as Crawley [[FX-3]]

//from PatrickDignan//\n\n''A Compensating Developer''\n|Water| 250 mL|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 6 g|\n|[[Phenidone]]| 0.25 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, anhydrous| 75 g|\n|[[Borax]] (10H~~2~~O)| 2.5 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 1 g|\n|>|Water to make 1 L|\n\nActivity of this developer will increase with storage\n\nDevelop Tri-X 7 to 8 minutes at 68F

//from PatrickDignan//\n\n|Water| 700 mL|\n|[[Metol]]| 1.5 g|\n|[[Phenidone]]| 0.25 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]] 5 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, anhydrous| 100 g|\n|[[Borax]] (10H~~2~~O| 2.5 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 1 g|\n|>|Water to make 1 L|\n\nUse the same developing time and temperature as CrawleyFX-3

//from PatrickDignan//\n\n''Very fine grain, reduce ASA 30%''\n|Water| 700 mL|\n|[[Metol]]| 5 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, anhydrous| 125 g|\n|[[Borax]] (10H~~2~~O)| 3 g|\n|BoricAcid, crystal| 1.5 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 0.5 g|\n|>|Water to make 1 L|\n\nRecommended development time for ~Tri-X, 10 minutes at 68F

/from PatrickDignan//\n\n''True Fine Grain Developer, Reduce ASA 30% TO 50%''\n!!!Developer\n|Water| 700 mL|\n|[[Metol]]| 4.5 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, anhydrous| 125 g|\n|SodiumMetaborate (8H~~2~~O)| 2.25 g|\n|SodiumBisulfsite| 1 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 0.5 g|\n|>|Water to make 1 L|\n!!!Replenisher\n|Water| 700 mL|\n|[[Metol]]| 7 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, anhydrous| 125 g|\n|SodiumMetaborate (8H~~2~~O)| 25 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 0.5 g|\n|>|Water to make 1 L|\nResults are similar to the orginal Microdol.\nAfter the first roll increase time 20% for every 4 or 5 rolls. You can use the replenisher to maintain the volume of solution until 25 rolls are processed.\n!!!Recommended Development Times at 68F\n|Ilford Pan F| 10 minutes|\n|Ilford FP4, 120| 8 minutes|\n|Ilford FP4, 35mm| 10 minutes|\n|Ilford HP4, 120| 13 minutes|\n|Ilford HP4, 35mm| 15 minutes|\n\n\n

/from PatrickDignan//\n''A monobath developer''\n|Water| 500 mL|\n|[[Calgon]]| 2 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, anhydrous| 50 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 12.9 g|\n|[[Phenidone]]| 1 g|\n|SodiumHydroxide| 10 g|\n|SodiumThiosulfate, anhydrous| 90 g|\n|>|Water to make 1 L|\nTo adjust contrast vary the amount of SodiumThiosulfate from 70.9 to 125.9 per L. For still higher contrast increase Hydroquinone 15-17 g.\nProcess 4 to 5 minutes. \nWash 5 to 20 minutes.\nThe capacity is only 1 to 2 rolls. have fixer ready in case the film has not cleared.

//from PatrickDignan//\n''balanced for Ilford and Adox films''\n|Water| 700 mL|\n|[[Metol]]| 1.5 g|\n|[[Phenidone]]| 0.25 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, anhydrous| 115 g|\n|SodiumMetaborate| 4 g|\n|SodiumPhosphate, Dibasic| 2 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 2 g|\n|>|Water to make 1 L|\nDevelop Ilford Pan F 3 minutes at 68F

//from PatrickDignan//\n\n!!!Solution A\n|SodiumThiosulfate, anyhydrous| 16 g|\n|>|Water to make 250 mL|\n!!!Solution B\n|PotassiumFerricyanide| 12.5 g|\n|Water to make 250 mL|\nBoth stock solutions have good keeping properties. However, when mixed the working solution has very short shelf life, approximately 5 minutes.\nThis type of reducer removes the same amount of silver from all negative densities at the same time. A weak solution favors the reduction of the shadows, a strong solution increases contrast.\n\n''For use:'' Mix 1A:1B and use for 30 seconds and then wash. The operation may be repeated if more reduction is required. Complete washing should follow. The working solution should be lemon yellow, discard when blue-gren.

!!!Other names:\nIron ammonium citrate; iron (Ill) ammonium citrate; ferric ammonio-citrate, ammonium ferric citrate. \n!!!Description:\nFerric ammonium citrate, brown form, is commercially available as red transparent scales, reddish-brown granules, or a brownish yellow powder. The brown form is odorless or with a slight ammonia odor and very readily absorbs water from moist air. The compound is light sensitive, being reduced to the ferrous salt by the light. \n!!!Precautions:\nKeep container tightly closed and well protected from light. Use good laboratory procedures with this compound. Wear safety glasses to protect eyes. \n!!!First Aid: If contact is made, flush from skin or eyes with plenty of water. If considerable quantity is swallowed, especially by a child, call a physician. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nBlue Toner (GT-14), Iron Blue Toner, Iron Green/Blue Toner, Ferricyanide-Iron Blue Toner (Ilford IT-6),\n

!!!Other names:\nIron trichloride; ferric trichloride; ferric perchloride; iron perchloride; iron chloride; iron (III) chloride; ferric chloride hydrate; ferric chloride hexahydrate. \n!!!Description:\nAnhydrous ferric chloride, occurs as brownish black crystals, red by transmitted light and green by reflected light, readily absorbs water from the air to form hexahydrate. The anhydrous salt is soluble in water, ethyl and methyl alcohols, acetone, and ether, but insoluble in glycerol and ethyl acetate. The anhydrous ~FeCl~~3~~ on exposure to air forms the yellowish brown to orange-yellow, crystalline hexahydrate. The hexahydrate takes up water from moist air and decomposes to give hydrochloric acid which can be detected by slight smell of HydrochloricAcid. The melting point is 37°C. The hexahydrate is very soluble in water (191 grams per liter of water at 20°C and much more soluble in hot water), and soluble in acetone, alcohol, and ether. An aqueous solution has a pH of 2.0 (0.1 molecular weight in 1000 ml solution). \n!!!Precautions:\nKeep container tightly closed. Use with adequate ventilation. Do not inhale as the anhydrous form is corrosive when moist, causing burns of the mucous membranes, as well as of eyes, skin, or mouth. Avoid contact of the eyes, skin, and repiratory system. Wear safety glasses or goggles and rubber or similar impervious gloves. Do not swallow. \n!!!First Aid:\nIf inhaled, remove from exposure, rest, and keep warm. If contact is made with eyes, flush with plenty of waters, irrigating thoroughly, then call a physician for further medical attention. For skin contact flush with plenty of water. Call a physician if any irritation persists. If swallowed, wash out mouth with water and have the person drink a large quantity of water, the follow with milk of magnesia. Call a physician at once for further treatment. \n!!!Uses:\nAs an ingredient in reducing and toning solutions; in photoetching processes on metal plates; as the light sensitive element in the cyanotype process. \nPhotographic Formulas: Vandium Print Toner. \n

Type the text for 'FilmDevelopers'

Removes excess silver from film or paper, eliminating senstivity to light and creates a permanent image. Improperly fixed film and paper will shift colors and fade over time.

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n\n37% [[Formaldehyde]] diluted 1 part [[Formaldehyde]] to 19 parts water.

//from PhotographersFormulary//\nWarningPotassiumFerricyanide\n!!!Stock Solution A\n|Distilled Water (20C/68F)| 750 mL|\n|CopperSulfate| 6.2 g|\n|PotassiumCitrate| 25 g|\n|>|Distilled Water to Make 1L|\n!!!Stock Soluton B\n|Distilled Water (20C/68F)| 750 mL|\n|PotassiumFerricyanide| 5.2g|\n|PotassiumCitrate| 25 g|\n|>|Distilled Water to Make 1L|\n\n

//from the PhotographersFormulary//\n\nThis formula should make enough sensitizer for 24 8x10 prints.\n!!!Solution A\n|Distilled Water (68F/20C)| 400 mL|\n|FerricAmmoniumCitrate| 100 g|\n|>|Distilled Water to Make 500 mL|\n!!!Solution B\n|Distilled Water (68F/20C)| 400 mL|\n|PotassiumFerricyanide| 40 g|\n|>|Distilled Water to Make 500 mL|\n!!!Mixing the Sensitizer Solution\n''Standard Sensitizer'' Mix together equal volumes of Solution A and B. The working solution is stable for 2 to 4 hours after mixing.\n''Lower Contrast Sensitizer'' Dilute the mixed working solution with water. The greater the dilution, the softer the print.\n''Higher Contrast Senstizer'' Add 1% PotassiumDichromate Solution to the Standard Sensitizer\n|!Total Volume of Sensitizer|!11.5 mL|!28 mL|\n|Stock Solution A| 5 mL| 12 mL|\n|Stock Solution B| 5 mL| 12 mL|\n|1% PotassiumDichromate| 30 drops| 4 mL|\nThis mixture will contain approximately 6 drops 1% Potassium Dichromate per 2 mL of Standard Sensitizer, expect a loss of 2 steps using Kodak No 2 Step Table.\n\nsee AboutCyanotypes\nsee HowtoToneCyantypes\n

//from PhotographersFormulary//\n\nWhen completely mixed, Gold Protective Toner has a rather short life (about one working session). Therefore, these directions are written so that you will not have to commit all of the chemicals to the preparation of the working solution unless you wish to do so.\n\n''Stock Solution A''\n|Distilled water (20°C/68°F)| 500 mL |\n|GoldChlorideSolution, 1%| 10 mL|\nWash the gold chloride bottle with 2 to 3 portions of fresh distilled or demineralized water and transfer the wash to the storage container. Be sure all the gold chloride solution is transferred. Finally, add sufficient distilled or demineralized water to the container to bring its final volume to 500 ml.\n\n''Stock Solution B''\n|Distilled water (20°C/68°F)| 500 mL|\n|PotassiumThiocyanate| 10 g|\n''Working Solution''\nSufficient chemicals are provided in this kit to protect 10 8x10 or 40 4x5 prints. This value is variable, however, depending upon the silver density in the prints that are toned-the greater the density, the lower the capacity. Since the working solution is not stable after mixing, the directions given below assume that only two 8x10 (or 4 4x5) prints are to be protected.\n\nTo prepare a working solution capable of protecting two 8x10 (or 8 4x5) print, mix:\n|Stock Solution A| 100 mL|\n|Stock Solution B| 100 mL|\nTo mix other volumes of working solution, add equal volumes of Stock Solutions A and B. Each 100 ml of working solution (from 50 ml of Stock Solution A and 50 ml of Stock Solution B) will have a capacity of about one 8x10 (or 4 4x5) print\n\nSee HowtoUseFormularyGP-1Toner

//from the PhotographersFormulary//\n!!The Photographer's Formulary ~Hypo-Alum Sepia Toner\nWarningSilverNitrate\n\n''Step 1''\n\n|Distilled water (52C/125F)| 750 mL|\n|SodiumThiosulfate, pentahydrate| 150 g|\nPlace the hot water in a mixing bowl and add the thiosulfate. Stir the solution until the solid goes into solution.\n\n''Step 2''\n\n|Solution from Step 1| 750 ml|\n|PotassiumAlum (alum)| 25 g|\nAdd the alum to the solution obtained from Step 1 and stir until the solid goes into solution.\n\nThis solution can be used as such as a ~Hypo-Alum Toner. If you wish to do so, transfer the solution to the storage container. Skip to the instructions labeled "Final Dilution". If you choose this alternative, be sure to read the comments at the start of Step 3 and \n\n''Step 3(optional)''\nA solution containing only thiosulfate and alum will act as reducer and bleach a print by removal of the silver. When the silver concentration in the bath is high enough, the solution will act as a toner. In order to convert a fresh thiosulfate-alum solution to a toning bath, silver must be added. This is carried out in two stages: silver nitrate is added to the bath and scrap prints are toned in the bath until a satisfactory toning solution is obtained.\n\n|Distilled water| 5 mL|\n|SilverNitrate| 0.12 g|\n\nAdd the water to the packet containing the silver nitrate. \nAdd the silver nitrate solution to the solution obtained from Step 2. If a precipitate should form, ignore it. Stir the solution to ensure it is homogeneous.\n\n''Step 4 (optional)''\nThe toning solution as described above tends to give cold tones. If you wish to obtain warmer tones, then potassium iodide must be added. \n\n|Distilled water (20C/68F)| 50 mL|\n|PotassiumIodide| 1 g|\n\nPlace the water in a clean mixing bowl (such as a water glass) and add the potassium iodide. Stir the solution to dissolve the solid.\nPour the iodide solution into the bath obtained from Step 2 (or Step 3).\nA precipitate usually forms, especially if silver nitrate has been added to the bath. The precipitate is normal therefore just ignore it.\n\nTransfer the toning solution to its storage container and add sufficient water to bring the final volume in the container up to 1000 ml (or 2000 ml). Cap and shake the container to ensure it is homogeneous.\n\n''RIPENING THE TONING SOLUTION''\nWithout sufficient silver in the toning bath, prints will be bleached rather than toned. Some of the required silver can be added to the bath (Step 3) but the final amount must be added by allowing the bath and the silver on a print to attain an equilibrium.\nTo obtain the proper silver concentration, "tone" scrap prints at 50C/120F. The first five or so of these prints will be ruined. (The actual number ruined will depend upon print size, density, etc.). The tone of the scrap prints will improve as the bath approaches the proper ratio of ingredients.\n\n''CAPACITY OF THE TONING BATH''\n\nThe ripened bath has a very high capacity and can be used for years. It is reported to improve with use. Add a little water (or better, fresh unripened toner solution) from time to time to maintain its volume.\n\n''USING THE TONER''\n\nThe print to be toned should be developed more than usual to obtain the best result. All types of papers can be used but the exact tone will depend upon the paper used. RC papers will tend to gray from loss of their optical brightener in this bath.\n\nThe toning bath should be used undiluted and at 50C/120F to minimize the toning time. Place the toning solution in a plastic tray. Try to avoid transferring any precipitate to the toning tray; however, if some should be transferred, don't worry about it. Float the toning tray in a larger tray containing hot water. Add hot water to the larger tray from time to time to maintain its temperature.\n\nImmerse a wet well washed print in the hot toning solution. Rock the toning tray to wash the print with fresh solution and to keep any precipitate off its surface. Tone to the desired hue; about 10 minutes will be required.\n\nAfter toning wash the print in running water for 10-20 minutes. Use a wet cotton swab to clean any scum off the print's surface.\n

//from PhotographersFormulary//\n\nThe chemicals in this kit are used to prepare an intensifier that is equivalent to Kodak In-5 and Du-Pont 3-I. The intensifier acts by depositing silver metal on existing silver grains in the emulsion. The amount of new silver deposited is somewhat proportional to the amount of silver originally present in the negative. The intensified image is permanent, has greater contrast than the original negative, and can be toned.\n\nThe intensifier is used in room light and the extent of intensification is determined by inspection of the negative as intensification is taking place. After the negative has been intensified sufficiently, it must be fixed and washed.\n''Mixing the Solutions''\nFour stock solutions and a fixer will be mixed. The four stock solutions are used to prepare the working solution just prior to use. The fixer is for the after treatment.\nWarningMetol\nWarningSilverNitrate\n''Stock Solution A''\n||>|!Kit Size|\n|!Chemical| 1/4 L| 1/2 L|\n|Distilled water (20°C/68°F)| 200 mL| 400 mL|\n|SilverNitrate| 15 g| 30 g|\n|Distilled water to make| 250 mL| 500 mL|\n''Stock Solution B''\n||>|!Kit Size|\n|!Chemical| 1/4 L| 1/2 L|\n|Distilled water (52°C/125°F)| 200 mL| 400 mL|\n|SodiumSulfite| 15 g| 30 g|\n|Distilled water to make| 250 mL| 500 mL|\n''Stock Solution C''\n||>|!Kit Size|\n|!Chemical| 1/4 L| 1/2 L|\n|Distilled water (52°C/125°F)| 200 mL| 400 mL|\n| SodiumThiosulfate, pentahydrate| 26 g| 52.5 g|\n| Distilled water to make| 250 mL| 500 mL|\n''Stock Solution D''\n@@This solution must be stored in a dark brown bottle or in the dark@@\n||>|!Kit Size|\n|!Chemical| 1/4 L| 1/2 L|\n|Distilled water (52°C/125°F)| 650 ml| 1300 mL|\n|SodiumSulfite| 3.7 g| 7.5 g|\n|[[Metol]]| 6 g| 12 g|\n|Distilled water to make| 250 mL| 500 mL|\nPlace the warm water in the mixing bowl and add a pinch of sodium sulfite, A pinch of sodium sulfite will minimize the initial oxidation of the metol; however, more will prevent the metol from dissolving. Add the metol and stir the solution to dissolve the solid. After all of the metol has dissolved, add the bulk of the sodium sulfite. Again, stir the solution to dissolve the solid. Finally, add sufficient water to bring the total volume up to 750 ml (or 1500 ml) - stir to ensure it is homogeneous - then transfer it to its storage container.\n\nSee also HowtoUseNegativeSilverIntensifier

Type the text for 'FormularyNewCyanotype'

//from the PhotographersFormulary//\nTo make 1 liter of bleach working solution and 1.8 liters of thiourea toning solution.\nTo obtain beautiful rich brown, sepia-like tones, the print is first bleached using a ferricyanide-bromide bath then redeveloped in a sulfide bath. In this process, the silver metal in the print is first converted to silver bromide then to brown silver sulfide. The resulting print can give the impression of a print made in the late 1800's.\nThe thiourea toner is actually a sulfide toner. In alkaline solution, thiourea (thiocarbamide) reacts to yield sulfide ions, the active ingredient in the toning bath. The advantage of this process is the avoidance of the foul smelling sodium sulfide bath.\nWarningSodiumHydroxide.\nWarningThiourea\nWarningPotassiumFerricyanide\nYou will also need PotassiumFerricyanideBleach\n''Stock solution A (Hydroxide for the Toning Bath)''\n|Cold Water (20°C/68°F or less)| 75 mL|\n|SodiumHydroxide(52°C/125°F)| 10 g|\n|>|Cold Water (20°C/68°F or less) to make 100 mL|\n@@When sodium hydroxide goes into solution, considerable heat is generated. If your water was not cold enough the solution may start to steam. If this should occur, add some ice to cool the solution. ''DO NOT BREATHE THE VAPOR''. It contains sodium hydroxide vapor. If the solution starts to steam and you cannot cool it, leave the room and let it cool off by itself. After the solid has gone into solution, let the solution sit until it reaches room temperature. Add sufficient cold water to make 100 ml using a portion of the water to rinse out the mixing bowl.@@\nBefore any of the mixing equipment leaves the sink, rinse and wash with cold water until you are positive that no residual hydroxide remains. Be sure to wash the outside of the storage container before you remove it from the sink If any of this solution spills on your skin, wash immediately with cold water followed by soap and water.\nShould any of this solution be spilled on your skin, wash immediately with cold water followed by soap and water.\n''Stock Solution B (Thiourea for the Toning Bath)''\n|[[Thiourea]]| 5 g|\n|Water (20°C/68°F)| 100 mL|

//from the PhotographersFormulary//\n\nWarningSilverNitrate\n\nThis formula shoudl make enoug solution to sensitize 100 4x5 prints.\n!!The Sensitizer\nThe sensitizer is prepared by first mixing three solutions (called A, B, and C) and then combining these three solutions in the order given below. You will need three mixing containers and a brown glass storage container for the final sensitizer solution.\nTo prepare these three solutions you will need either distilled or demineralized water, which can be purchased at any drugstore.\nThe separate solutions are not light sensitive, therefore they can be mixed in strong light. However, when they are combined, the resulting solution is light sensitive. Therefore, the final step should be carried out in very subdued light, or better, a darkroom with a red safety light.\n!!!Solution A\nAll of the sensitizer will eventually be combined into Solution A's container. Therefore, be sure the capacity of this container is greater than 100 ml.\n|Distilled Water (20C/68F)| 33 mL|\n|FerricAmmoniumCitrate| 9 g|\nPlace the water in a mixing container (such as a common drinking glass) and add the solid. Stir the solution to dissolve the solid.\n!!!Solution B\n|Distilled Water (20C/68F)| 33 mL|\n|TartaricAcid| 1.5 g|\nMix as was described for Solution A\n!!!Solution C\n|Distilled Water (20C/68F)| 33 mL|\n|SilverNitrate| 3.8 g|\n*Mix as was described for Solution A\n!!The Working Solution\n*In a darkroom using a red safety light, add Solution B to Solution A Stir to ensure it is homogeneous.\n*Slowly add Solution C to the combined mixture of Solutions A and B. Stir the mixture while Solution C is being added. \n*A precipitate may or may not form. If a precipitate should form, disregard it.\n*Store the resulting sensitizer in a brown bottle in a darkroom. It will remain active for months.\n\nIt is not necessary to use a measured amount of sensitizer solution because the amount of sensitizer needed will depend upon the porosity of the paper. In general, you can expect to use about 1 ml for a 4-by-5 sheet of paper (4 ml for an 8-by-10)\nSince this kit makes about 100 ml of sensitizer solution, you can expect to be able to make up to 100 4-by-5 prints (or about 25 8-by-10 prints).\n

FilmDevelopers\nPaperDevelopers\n[[Bleaches]]\n[[Fixers]]\n[[Toners]]\n[[Miscellaneous]]

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n''Fine Grain Tank Developer''\nThis fine-grain formula keeps well and makes an excellent tank developer.\n|Water (125F/52C)| 750 mL|\n|[[Metol]]| 8 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, anhydrous| 125 g|\n|SodiumCarbonate. anhydrous| 5.75 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 2.5 g|\n|>|Water to make 1 L|\nDo not dilute for use.\nDevelop 9 to 16 minutes at 68F/20C.

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n''~Fine-Grain Borax Tank Developer''\n\nThis is a fine grain developer for pack and 35mm films. It can also be used for obtaining soft gradation with portrait and press films. It is recommended for motion picture negative development.\n|Water (125F/52C)| 750 mL|\n|[[Metol]]| 1.5 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, dessicated| 80 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 3 g|\n|[[Borax]], granular| 3 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 0.5 g|\n|>|Add cold water to make 1 L|\nDissolve in the order given.\nDo not dilute for use.\n''Tank Development''\n*10 to 15 minutes at 68F for fine-grain films\n*12 to 20 minutes at 68F for press and portrait sheet films\n*8 to 12 minutes at 68F, depending on film type and density desired\nsee GAF17A for the replenisher

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n''Replenisher for GAF17''\n\nAdd 1/2 to 3/4 oz of replenisher to GAF 17 for each roll of 120 or 36 exposure 35 mm film (or equivalent) developed.\nMaintain original volume of developer, discarding if necessary some used developer.\nNo increase in development time is necessary when this replenisher is used a prescribed.\n|Water (125F/52C)| 750 mL|\n|[[Metol]]| 2.2 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, dessicated| 80 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 4.5 g|\n|[[Borax]], granular| 18 g|\n|>|Add cold water to make 1 L|

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n!!GAF 222 Hypo Alum Toner\n''Solution 1''\n|2350 mL|Water|\n|450g|SodiumThiosulfate (Hypo)|\n\n''Solution 2''\n|30 mL|Water|\n|1.3g|SilverNitrate|\n\n''Solution 3''\n|30 mL|Water|\n|2.7g|PotassiumIodide|\n\n*Add Solution 2 to Solution 1. Then add Solution 3 to the mixture.\n*Finally add 105 g of PotassiumAlum to this solution, and heat the entire bath to the boiling point, or until sulfuriztion takes place (indicated by a milky appearnace of the solution)\n*Tone prints 20 to 60 minutesin this bath at 110-115F (43-52C)\n*Agitate prints occasionally until toning is complete\n\n*Care should be taken to see that the blacks are fully converted before removing the prints from the toning bath, otherwise double tones may result.

//from PhotographersFormulary//\n\nThis toner can be used to produce either deep blue tones or red tones. For blue tones, the black-and-white print is toned without any pretreatment. For red tones, the print is first toned to a Sepia hue with a sulfide toner (such as Formulary HypoAlum Toner) then toned again with the chemicals contained in this Kit.\n\nWith either technique, the actual color that is obtained is dependent upon the type of paper used to make the print. Slow, warm-tone papers tone more readily than do fast cold-tone papers. Prints that have been fully exposed and developed in dilute developers tend to give the best results.\n\n@@Once mixed, the toning solution is not very stable. Therefore, plan on toning a number of prints in a single working session.@@\n\n''Solution A''\n|Distilled water (52°C/125°F)|500 mL|\n|AmmoniumThiocyanate| 105 g|\n|>|Distilled water to make 750 mL|\n''Solution B''\n|Distilled water (20°C/68°F)|100 mL|\n|GoldChlorideSolution, 1%| 60 mL|\n|Distilled water to make| 250 mL|\nPlace the plastic funnel on the storage container and add 100 ml of water to the storage container. Pour all of the gold chloride solution contained in the kit into the storage container. Measure 90 ml of water and add half of it to the gold chloride-solution container then transfer this rinse water to the storage container. Use the other half of the 90 ml portion of the water to wash the funnel used for transfer.\n\n''10 Percent SodiumThiosulfate Solution (For use as an after-bath in Red Toning Only)''\n|Distilled water (52°C/125°F)| 750 mL|\n|Sodium thiosulfate, pentahydrate| 100 g |\n|>|Distilled water to make 1000 mL|\n\n''Working Solution''\n\nThe working solution is prepared by mixing 3 parts of Stock Solution A and 1 part Stock Solution B. Stock Solution B is to be added to Stock Solution A.\n\nUnfortunately, the working solution is not very stable after mixing. In addition, the capacity depends upon silver density of the print and the method in which the print is toned (see below). Therefore, the capacity is very hard to estimate before the fact. Plan to tone about 20 8x10 prints per liter, but save your poorer prints to be toned towards the end.\n\n||>|>|!Approximate Volume of Toning Solution|\n||100 mL|500 mlL|1000 mL|\n|Stock Solution A|75 ml|375 mL|750 mL|\n|Stock Solution B|25 ml|125 mL|250 mL|\n\nPour Stock Solution A into the toning tray and add Stock Solution B to it. Mix the solutions by rocking the tray. Use at room temperature.\n\nSee HowtoUseGAF231Toner\n

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n''This is a brilliant ~Metol-Hydroquinone tray developer for roll, pack and cut film.\n''Stock Solution'\n|Water (125F/52C)| 900 mL|\n|[[Metol]]| 4.5 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, anhydrous| 54 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 7.5 g|\n|SodiumCarbonate, monohydrated| 54 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 3 g|\n|>|Add water to make 1 L|\nFor use dilute 1:2 Water.\nDevelopment time 4 to 5 minutes at 68F/20C.

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n\n''~M-H Tank Developer''\nThis is a soft-working deep tank formula recommended for pack, roll, and portrait films.\n|Water (125F/52C)| 750 mL|\n|[[Metol]]| 0.8 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, anhydrous| 45 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 1.2 g|\n|SodiumCarbonate, monohydrated| 8 g|\n|PotassiumMetabisulfite| 4 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 1.5 g|\n|>|Add cold water to make 1 L|\nDo not dilute for use.\nDevelop 15 to 20 minutes at 68F/20C.\n\n

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n\n''Metol Hydroquinone Developer''\nThis is a long-lfe, clean-working formula which will give excellent results for either tray or tank development. It is a standard sheet film developer.\n|Water (125F/52C)| 750 mL|\n|[[Metol]]| 1.5 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, dessicated| 45 g|\n|SodiumBisulfite| 1 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 3 g|\n|SodiumCarbonate, monohydrated| 6 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 0.8 g|\n|>|Add cold water to make 1 L|\nDo not dilute for use for the following times:\n''Tank Development'' Normal development time 6 to 8 minutes at 68F/20C with occasional agitation.\n''Tray Development'' Normal development time 5 to 7 minutes at 68F/20C.\n\nsee GAF47a for replenishment

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n\n''Replenisher solution for GAF47''\nAdd 1/2 to 3/4 ounce of replenisher to GAF47 for each roll of 120 Film (or equivalent) developed. Maintain original volume of developer, discarding if necessary some used developer. No increase in original developing time is necessary when replenisher is used in this manner.\n|Water (125F/52C)| 750 mL|\n|[[Metol]]| 3 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, dessicated| 45 g|\n|SodiumBisulfite| 2 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 6 g|\n|SodiumCarbonate, monohydrated| 12 g|\n|>|Add water to make 1 L|

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n\n''Metaborate Deep Tank Developer''\nThe formula is recommended for photofinishingm professional and amateur developing, and is suitable for deep tank use over a long period of time.\n|Water (125F/52C)| 750 mL|\n|[[Metol]]|2 g|\n|SodiumSulfite| 40 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 1.5 g|\n|SodiumMetaborate| 10 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 0.5 g|\n|>|Add cold water to make 1 L|\nDo not dilute for use.\n''Tray Development'' Normal developing time, 4 to 6 minutes at 68F/20C\n''Tank Development' Normal developing time, 5 to 7 minutes at 68F/20C\n\nsee GAF48Ma for replenishment

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n\n''Replenisher Solutin for GAF48M Developer''\nAdd 1/2 to 3.4 ounce replensiher to GAF48M for each roll of 120 film (or equivalent) developed. Maintain original volume of developer, discarding if necessary some used developer. No increase in original developing time is necessary when replenisher is used in this manner.\n|Water (125F/52C)| 750 mL|\n|[[Metol]]| 6.3 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, dessicated| 30 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 10 g|\n|SodiumMetaborate| 40 g|\n|>|Add cold water to make 1 L|

/from Morgan and Morgan//\n\n''Rapid M-H (Tropical) Developer''\nThis is a clean-working developer of particular value for rapid development or development at high temperatures.\n|Water (125F/52C)| 750 mL|\n|[Metol]]| 2.5 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, dessicated| 25 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 6.5 g|\n|SodiumCarbonate, monohydrated| 16 g|\n|PotassiumMetaborate| 40 g|\n|>|Add cold water to make 1 L|\nDo not dilute for use.\nNormal development time 4 to 4 minutes at 68F/20C, 2 to 3 minutes at 85F/29C

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n\n!!!Stock Solution\n|Water (125F/52C)| 750 mL|\n|SodiumSulfite, dessicated| 125 g|\n|PotassiumCarbonate| 250 g|\n|[[Glycin]]| 50 g|\n|Add cold water to make 1L|\n!!!Tank Devevelopment\nDilute 1:15 water, develop film 20 to 25 minutes at 68F/20C\n!!!Tray Development\nDilute 1:4 water, develop film 5 to 10 minutes at 68F/20C

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n!!!For Tray Development\n|[[Metol]]| 0.9 g|\n|SodiumSulfite| 25.7 g|\n|SodiumBisulate| 0.5 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 1.6 g|\n|SodiumCarbonate| 4.3 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 0.5 g|\n|>| Water to make 1 L|\nDevelopment 5-7 minutes\n!!!For Tank Development\nMQ Developer\n|[[Metol]]| 12 g|\n|SodiumSulfite| 360 g|\n|SodiumBisulate| 7.5 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 22.5 g|\n|SodiumCarbonate| 60 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 7 g|\n|>| Water to make 13.243 L|\nDevelopment time about 12 minutes\nFor a softer working MQ formula which is very satisfactory for portraiture, use GD-33.

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n!!!For Tank Development\n|[[Metol]]| 18.5 g|\n|SodiumSulfite| 255.2 g|\n|SodiumBisulate| 5.3 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 6.5 g|\n|SodiumCarbonate| 42.5 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 4.9 g|\n|>| Water to make 13,248 L|\nDevelopment 10-15 minutes\n!!!For Tray Development\n|[[Metol]]| 5 g|\n|SodiumSulfite| 50 g|\n|SodiumBisulate| 1 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 1.3 g|\n|SodiumCarbonate| 8.5 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 1 g|\n|>| Water to make 1 L|\nDevelopment time about 5-7 minutes

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n\n|750 mL|Water|\n|10 mL |1% GoldChlorideSolution|\n|10g|Sodium Thiocyanate|\n|>|water to make 1L|\n\n*Add the gold chloride solution to the volume of water indicated.\n*Dissolve the sodium thiocyanate, //separately// in 125 mL of water\n*Then add the thiocyanate solution slowly to the gold choride solution, while stirring rapidly.\n\n''For use:'' Immerse the well washed print (which has preferably received a hypo-elimination treatment) in the ~GP-1 solution for 10 minutes at 68F (20C) or a just perceptible chnage in image tone (very slight bluish black) takes place. Then wash for 10 minutes and dry as usual.\n\n''Approximate exhaustion life:'' Thirty 8x10 prints per gallon. For best result, the Kodak ~GP-1 Solution should be mixed immediately for use.

//from Ann Clancy//\n||~GP-2|~GP-2R|\n|Distilled Water| 750 mL| 750 mL|\n|GoldChloride (50% Au)| 0.5g| 2.0 g|\n|TartaricAcid| 1.0 g| 1.2 g|\n|[[Thiourea]]| 5.0 g| 10 g|\n|SodiumSulfate, anhydrous| 15.0 g| 18.0 g|\n|Water to make| 1.0 L | 1.0 L|\n\nThe replenishment rate is 20 mL per square feet of film processed.\n\nProcessing time is about 1 minute with good agitation at 27C

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//from AnnClancy//\n\nfor blue tones on chloride papers\n\n''Solution A''\n|GoldChloride| 1 g |\n|CalciumCarbonate| 3 g|\n|>|Water to make 250 mL|\n''Solution B''\n|[[Thiourea]] (ThioCarbamide)|16 g|\n|SodiumThiosulfate| 16 g|\n|PotassiumMetabisulfite| 5 g|\n|>|Water to make 250 mL|\n\nPrints should be developed a little lighter than usual for this toner.\nSolutions should be prepared 24 hours before use and mixed in equal parts immediateky before use.\nToning takes about 5 minutes.\nWash thoroughly.\n

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n\nAs there is no alkali present in this developer there is no softening of the gelatin, and the tendency to frill at high termperatures is reduced to a minimum; so the development of film, plates and papers can be safely conducted at temperatures up to 85F. This formula will give excellent results as a negative developer. On bromide papers, it will produce beautiful blue-black tones; and the developer will keep well for two days, although to insure best results it should be freshly prepared each time.\n|SodiumSulfite| 15 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 0.5 g|\n|[[Amidol]]| 4 g|\n|>|Water to 600 mL|

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n|[[Metol]]| 1 g|\n|SodiumSulfite| 32 g|\n|[[Glycin]]| 0.5 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 0.5 g|\n|SodiumCarbonate| 28 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 1.5 g|\n|CitricAcid| 1 g|\n|>|Water to make 1 L|\nIf exposure is correct, film will properly developed in 10-12 minutes.\n

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n\n||!Tray|!Tank|\n|[[Metol]]| 0.9g| 12 g|\n|SodiumSulfite| 25.7 g| 360 g|\n|SodiumBisulfate| 0.5 g| 7.5 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 1.6 g| 22.5 g|\n|SodiumCarbonate| 4.3 g| 60 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 0.5 g| 7 g|\n|Water to| 1 L| 13.243 L|\n|Development time| 5 - 7 minutes | about 12 minutes |\nFor a softer working MQ formula which is very satisfactory for portraiture, use GeveartGD-33

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n\n||!Tray|!Tank|\n|[[Metol]]| 5 g| 18.5 g|\n|SodiumSulfite| 50 g| 255.2 g|\n|SodiumBisulfate| 1 g| 5.3 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 1.3 g| 6.5 g|\n|SodiumCarbonate| 8.5 g| 42.5 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 1 g| 4.9 g|\n|Water to| 1 L| 13.243L|\n|Development time| 5 - 7 minutes | 10 - 15 minutes |

GLYCIN \nOther names: p-Hydroxyphenylaminoacetic acid; p-hydroxyanilinoacetic acid; para-oxyphenyl glycin; para-oxyphenyl glycocoll; and a number of trade names (Athenon, Glycin, Iconyl, and Monazol\n!!!Description:\nThe very small thin plates, occurring as a white powder, are almost insoluble in water, acetone, alcohol, benzenc, chloroform, ether, ethyl acetate, and glacial acetic acid. A 3% sodium sulfite solution at 60°F will dissolve almost 13% by weight of Glycin, thus the recommendation to add the sodium sulfite before the Glycin when making developer solutions. \n!!!Precautions:\nAvoid repeated or prolonged contact with this compound as kidney damage has been reported from persistent contact. Keep container closed and use with adequate ventilation. Do not breathe dust or swallow, Wear safety glasses or rubber gloves when handling and wash thoroughly after handling. \n!!!First Aid:\nIn case of contact, flush the eyes or skin with plenty of water. If swallowed, induce vomiting by giving a glass of lukewarm salty water (2 teaspoonfuls of table salt to one glass of water). Call a physician. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nFX-2 Film Developer, FX-11 Film Developer, Raphaelson GPQ Liquid Concentrate, Print Developer 106, Print Developer 130 Adams Version, Kodak D-155 Print Developer, WW-1 Print Developer. \n

!!!Other names:\nChloroauric acid; chlorauric acid; hydrochloroauric acid; gold trichloride, acid; tetrachloroauric acid. \n!!!Description:\nThe bright golden-yellow to reddish yellow crystals readily absorb water from the air and are sensitive to sunlight. \n!!!Precautions:\nKeep container closed, or tube unbroken, until ready for use. Protect from light. Avoid contact with eyes and skin as irritation or allergic dermatitis may result. Wear safety glasses or goggles and rubber or similar impervious gloves. Do not swallow. \n!!!First Aid:\nIf contact is made with eyes or skin, flush with plenty of water. Call a physician for the eyes. If swallowed, induce vomiting by having the person drink a glass of lukewarm, salty water (one tablespoon of table salt in glass of water). Call a physician. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nIlfordIT-4GoldToner, Gold-Thiocarbamide Toner (IlfordIT-5), NelsonsGold Print Toner, Gold Toner (Kodak T-26), \n

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n\nA 1% stock solution of GoldChloride may be prepared by dissolving 1 g Gold Chloride in 100 mL of water.

//list compiled by AnnClancy//\n\nAnsco231GoldToner\nNelsonsGold\nKodakGoldGP-1\nKodakGP-2\nGAF231GoldToner\nKodakT-26\nIndirectGoldToner\nDirectGold-ThiocarbamideToner\nBlueGoldToner\nDassonvilleT-6GoldChloride\nGoldChlorideBlueToner\n\nIlfordIT-4GoldToner\nIlfordIT-5 \nDupont6T\nGevaertG-417\nLawlessGold\n\n

//from PhotographersFormulary//\nA hardening bath for prints.\n|Water (52°C/125°F)| 500 mL|\n|SodiumSulfite*| 15 g|\n|AceticAcid, 28%| 40 mL|\n|PotassiumAlum| 15 g|\n|>|Water to make 1000 mL|\n *Sodium sulfite (Na~~2~~SO~~3~~) is not sodium sulfide (Na~~2~~S). Sodium sulfite is a white powder; sodium sulfide comes in the form of yellow chips.\nHarden the print for about 5 minutes in this bath then wash in running water for 30 minutes.

//[[john t satterlee - photography|http://jtsatterlee.com]]//

//from AnnClancy//\n#Selenium tone a print for about 15 minutes in a 1:3 or 1:5 solution of selenium Toner\n#Rinse\n#Bleach in IodineBleach\n#Place in weak fixer to clear highlights\n#Wash\n@@IodineBleach will stain everything. To remove stains, wipe down with weak fixer@@\n

Type the text for 'Howto'

//from AnnClancy// \n\nBleaching times and the strength of additive in toning solution impact the overall effect\n\n#Soak print in water\n#Bleach\n#Wash\n**2-3 minutes for RC\n**5-10 minutes for fiber\n#Place in toning solution\n#Wash\n**3-5 minutes for RC\n**10-15 minutes for fiber\n\nSee also: \n*HowtoPreSulphideforSepiaToning\n*HowtoPreDevelopforBleachthenTone\n*HowtoSplitTonewithBleach\n*HowtoTripleBandTone\n

//Les ~McLean's Bleach and Tone Process://\n<<<\nI mentioned bleaching and redevelop in selenium that can produce some interesting colour changes here's my method.\n*Mix a very dilute sepia bleach 1 to 30 instead of the usual 1 to 9 as suggested by the manufacturers.\n*Bleach the print until only the highlights are affected, usually 20 to 30 seconds is sufficient.\n*Wash the print for 20 minutes if fibre 3 to 5 minutes if RC\n*Sepia tone in your normal toner I use Fotospeed for it gives the rich brown tone that I prefer. Only the highlights will be affected they will be a slight sepia tone. *Wash as above.\n\nUsing a normal strength sepia bleach fully bleach the print, the highlights will not bleach as they have been dealt with in the first bleach process. Wash as above.\n\nPlace the print into a selenium bath 1 to 9, it is worth experimenting with dilution and temperature, and remove it when you see changes that you like. Wash as above.\n//Les ~McLean//\n<<<

//from PhotographersFormulary//\n!!!How to increase the contrast of a VanDykeBrown print\nThe contrast of the print can be increased by adding 10% Potassium Dichromate (PotassiumDichromateforVDB) to the initial wash and development" water. About 9-10 drops of the 10% dichromate solution added to 500 ml of water will give an increase in contrast equal to about the loss of 1 step of a Kodak No 2 Step Table. You will need to determine the exact amount by trial and error.\n

!!!Cold Method\n#Place the measured dry chemicals in a 1 oz brown glass bottle\n#Pour half the water in the bottle, screw lid on and shake until powder is moist.\n#Add remaining water and shake\n#Shake 3 or 4 more times over the next several hours.\nThe chemicals should dissolve completely within 12 hours.\n\n!!!Warm method\n#Place 13.5 g FerricOxalate powder in a small pyrex container @@Never use metal@@\n#Add 50 mL distilled water\n#Gently heat and stir until dissolved, do not overheat or boil.\n\n

//from AnnClancy//\n\nGives stronger, colder shadow details\n#Soak print in water\n#Bleach\n#Short wash\n#Place in solution of weak developer, remove with first signs of image development\n#Transfer to toner\n#Wash\n

//from AnnClancy//\n\nThis technique can help reduce the degrading effect that may occur in shadow areas. Very helpful when split toning\n\n#Soak print in water\n#Place in toning solution\n#Short wash\n#Bleach\n#Tone in usual manner\n#Wash

//from Tim Rudman's method//\n\nPrints need to be over exposed for this process. ½ to 1 full stop\n\n''Procedure'' \n#Bleach\n#Wash in running water\n#Redevelop in LithDeveloper\n#Wash in running water\n#Fix in WeakFixerforPseudoLith\n#Hypo clear\n#Wash\n

#Soak negatives in water\n#Refix in PureHypo\n#Soak in Selenium (working solution, 1:3, 1:5, 1:20, etc)\n#Soak in ~Hypo-Clear\n#Wash (AboutIlfordArchivalNegativeWashing)\n#Dry Negatives\n

//from Les ~McLean//\n<<<\nFor a wacky effects try chemical solarisation using blue toner and fix.\n\nMix blue toner to your preferred dilution and tone it followed by a wash and place it in a very dilute fixer solution 1 to 20 or 30, when things start to happen remove, wash and place into blue toner and continue this process until you like what you see. \n\nThe length of time in each solution does have a bearing on the result so play with time. A high contrast subject, say a side lit portrait or any subject, but using very strong lighting can produce good effects. \n//Les ~McLean//\n<<<

//from AnnClancy//\n\nWith split toning the bleaching step is critical to the over all effect.\n#Soak print in water\n#Bleach\n**@@allow only the highlights to bleach@@\n**@@retain shadow details so they will not convert@@\n#Wash\n#Place in another toner \n#Wash

//from the PhotographersFormulary//\n!!!Brown to Black Tones\n|[[Ammonia]] 28%| 10 mL|\n|Distilled Water| 100 mL|\nand\n|TannicAcid| 10 g|\n|Distilled Water| 500 mL|\nThis is a two step immersion process.\n#Mix both solutions separately,\n#Immerse the print in ammonia solution until the color has been bleached out\n#Wash in cool water for 10 minutes\n#Immerse print in Tannic Acid solution until desired color is achieved.\n#Wash for 15 minutes and dry\n!!!Violet Tones\nPrepare either a mild borax solution ''or'' a warm 5% solution of LeadAcetate (5 g Lead Acetate in 100 mL of water)\nImmerse print in either solution until desired color is achieved.\nWash in running water for 15 minutes and dry.

//from AnnClancy//\n\nThis type of toning may give duotones in several tonal ranges\n\n#Soak print in water\n#Bleach using a very short time\n#Wash\n#Tone\n#Wash\n#Re-bleach using a very short time\n#Wash\n#Tone again using a different additive strength or different toner mixture

see AboutDividedD-76\nsee DividedD-76\n\nThe time the film remains in Bath (A) is not important as long as the film is thoroughly soaked. The time the film remains in Bath (B) controls the development and final contrast of the negative. A change of 30 seconds will not be noticeable.\n\n|!Bath|!FDD-76|!PD-76|!VD-76|!FSD-76|!AP|!XAP|\n| (A) | 3 min| 3 min| 5 min| 3 min| 22 min| 24 min|\n| (B) | 3 min| 3 min| 5 min| 2-4 min| 24 min| 24 min|\n\n!!!Agitation\nContinuous for the first 15 seconds in each bath, then 2 or 3 spiral turns (or 1 inversion) every 30 seconds.\n\n!!!Usage\nBath (A) is reusable and can be returned to its storage container.\nBath (B) is used once then disgarded.\n\n!!!Shelf Life \nThe shelf life of Bath (A) in a full stoppered bottle is about six months. The shelf life of Bath (B) in a full stoppered bottle is about three months.

//from PhotographersFormulary//\n\nFormulary Copper Toner is a general-purpose toner that acts by deposition of copper metal. It is capable of producing a variety of colors ranging from warm brown to chalk red. The extract toner that is obtained depends upon the length of time the paper is immersed in the toning bath, and the type of paper used. Almost all papers can be used with this toning bath although fiber-based papers are best, resin coated papers work nicely also.\n!!!Mixing the Working Solution\nMix the working solution just prior to toning. To prepare the working solution., mix equal volumes of Stock Solutions A and B. Do not dilute the working solution. Discard the working solution after a working session.\n!!!Toning the Print\nAll toners work best if the print is fixed with a non-hardening fixer . A hardening fixer decreases the permeability of the gelatin of the print thus decreasing the ability of the toning chemicals to reach the silver metal in the print.\nTo tone the print, immerse the fixed and washed print in the undiluted toning solution in a plastic tray. If you start with a dry print, be sure to presoak it in water. The longer the print is immersed in the toning solution, the more the tone will appear as a red hue. If the print is allowed to remain too long in the bath the whites will turn pink. When first using this toning solution, it is wise to determine the toning time with test strips. Rinse the toned print in running water for 20 minutes.\n

//from PhotographersFormulary//\n\nThe print must be thoroughly fixed and washed. Use archival procedure for washing. Gold Protective Toner will protect the silver metal from environmental chemicals but cannot protect the paper. If the paper contains residual fixer, the print will degrade in time whether it is gold toned or not.\n\nIf the print is dry, presoak it before toning. Immerse the wet print in the working solution at room temperature (20°C/68°F) for 10 minutes or until you can detect a barely perceptible shift in tone towards the blue. After toning wash the print in running water for at least 20 minutes.

//from PhotographersFormulary//\n''Mixing the Working Toner Solution''\nMix just prior to use. To prepare the toning solution, mix 1 part stock Solution A, 1 part Stock Solution B, and 16 parts of water. For example:\n\n|||>|>|!Approximate Volume of Toning Solution Desired|\n|Chemical|Parts| 250 mL| 500 mL| 1000 mlL|\n|Stock solution A| 114 mL| 28 mL| 56 mL|\n|Stock Solution B| 114 mL| 28 mL| 56 mL|\n|Water (20°C/68°F)16| 224 mL| 448 mL| 896 mL|\nOnce mixed, the toner is stable for a working session but cannot be saved. \n''Using the Toner''\nCorrectly exposed and fully developed prints work best with this toner.\n''Bleaching the Print''\nPotassiumFerricyanideBleach is used at room temperature without dilution as the bleach. The print to be bleached must be thoroughly washed and wet before it is immersed in the bleach solution. If residual hypo is left on the print, the hypo combined with the ferricyanide in the bleach will cause permanent loss of the image.\nPour just enough stock Solution A to cover a print into a plastic or glass tray. Immerse the print into the bleach solution and gently rock the tray. The black image will be converted to a light brown or straw colored image in about one minute. Wash the bleach print in running water (20°C/68°F) for 15-20 minutes. During the wash the yellow ferricyanide color on the print will be lost.\nThe bleach solution can be reused; therefore, return it to its container\n''Redevelopment''\nPlace the working solution in a plastic tray and immerse the well-washed, bleached print in it. Work at room temperature. Redevelopment of the image to a rich sepia tone will occur in about 1 minute.\nAfter redevelopment wash the print in funning water for about 30 minutes.\n''After Treatment''\nThe sulfide-hydroxide toning bath will soften the emulsion of the print. Therefore, it is advisable to harden the print before it is dried, with a HardeningBath.\n

//from PhotographersFormulary//\n\nfor GAF231GoldToner\n!!For Blue Tones\nImmerse a well-washed and wet black-and-white print in the toning solution. Rock the tray to wash the print with fresh toning solution. The degree of blue toning depends upon the length of time in the toning bath. Tone to the hue desired then remove the print and wash in running water for 10-20 minutes.\n\nWhen first using this toner, you will not know the time needed to achieve the desired hue. We suggest you use a few test strips of the prints you wish to tone to calibrate the bath. \n!!For Red Tones\nFor red-toning, the print must be first sepia toned using FormularySepiaSulfideToner, Bleach and Redevelopment (Catalog number 06-0035). This process involves an initial bleaching of the print with a ferricyanide-bromide toner then redeveloping the image with a sulfide bath. Directions for the use of the Sulfide Toner are contained in that kit.\n\nMixed tones of blue and red can be obtained it the print is first partially toned in a sulfide bath without initially bleaching the image. Kits to carry out this type of sulfide toning are Formulary HypoAlum Toner (Catalog numbers 06-0100 and 06-0110) and Formulary PolysulfideToner (Catalog number 06- 0190).\n\nStarting with a sulfide-toned print, use the following procedure to obtain red toner.\n\nBe sure the print is well washed and wet before toning. Immerse the print in the working solution of the toning bath. Proper toning takes a considerable amount of time (15-45 minutes). During this time occasionally rock the tray to wash the print with fresh toning solution.\n\nAs toning proceeds, the color of the print will first turn to brown and then to red.\n\nThe exact color of the toning is dependent upon the time the print remains in the toning bath. To obtain the desired hue, we recommend that you first tone a test strip of the print in order to calibrate the time of toning.\n!!After Treatment for Red Toned Prints\nWash the print for 1-2 minutes in running water then re-fix it in a 10 percent solution of sodium thiosulfate. Finally, wash the print thoroughly (10-20 minutes) in running water.

Prints are first toned in a PolysulfideToner (KodakT-8) or HypoAlum Sepia Toner, then in the above toning bath, where the sepia tone will change to reddish brown and then to red. The approximate time of toning is 10 minutes for a red tone. The prints are then fixed in a 10% solution of Sodium Thiosulfate (Hypo) for 5 to 10 minutes, and finally washed thoroughly in running water.

//from PhotographersFormulary//\n\n''Mixing the working solution''\nThe stock solutions are stable for at least 6 months; however, the working solution is stable for only about 1/2 hour after it is mixed. In addition, the working solution cannot be reused otherwise it will stain. Therefore, mix only enough working solution to intensify a frame or a roll of film. A negative can only be intensified once!\n|||>|>|!Desired Volume|\n|!Chemical|!Parts| 30 mL| 300 m| 500 mL|\n|Stock Solution A| 1| 5 mL| 50 mL| 83 mL|\n|Stock Solution B| 1| 5 mL| 50 mL| 83 mL|\n|Stock Solution C| 1| 5 mL| 50 mL| 83 mL|\n|Stock Solution D| 3| 15 mL| 150 mL| 250 mL|\nPlace the correct volume of Stock Solution A in the bowl and slowly add to it, with rapid stirring, an equal volume of Stock Solution B. A white precipitate will form. To this mixture, add the correct volume of Stock Solution C. Upon stirring, the white precipitate will dissolve. To the resulting solution, slowly add with constant stirring, the proper volume of Stock Solution D. Stir the resulting solution to ensure it is homogeneous. Use the working solution immediately.\n''Using the Intensifier''\nPresoak the negative. Place the working solution in a white developing tray (or dish). (If you are working with a roll of film, you will have to use a reel and a tank. Visual inspection will be more difficult.) Working in room light, immerse the wet negative in the working solution and then watch the negative. You will be able to detect a slow darkening as the intensification proceeds. The degree of intensification depends upon the length of time the negative is immersed in the working solution. Constant agitation will produce greater intensification. You should not attempt to intensify longer than 25 minutes. When sufficient intensification has taken place, remove the negative and rinse it in running water. Do not intensify a negative more than once!\n''~After-Treatment''\nThe excess silver nitrate in the negative must be removed by a sodium thiosulfate fixer (30% solution – 150 g to 500 ml), otherwise, the negative will stain in time.\nImmerse the negative in the 30% sodium thiosulfate solution for 2-3 minutes, then wash it for 15 to 20 minutes in running water. To ensure the sodium thiosulfate has been removed from the negative, you may wish to use either a Hypo Clear or a Hypo Eliminator. Be sure to wash the negative thoroughly after such a treatment.\nThe 30% sodium thiosulfate solution cannot be reused.

//from Les ~McLean//\n<<<\nTry this method to achieve a warm almost copper effect. \n\n*First dilute the bleach used in sepia toning at least 3 times weaker than suggested in the instructions, ie most say 1 to 9 use 1 to 30 or more.\n*Bleach the print for about 20 to 30 seconds and wash then sepia tone it in the normal strength toner.\n*All that will happen is that the highlights only will be slightly changed to a delicate sepia tone.\n*Wash the print and then bleach in a normal strength sepia bleach until the blacks loose the richness you would normally see in a deep rich black.\n*Wash the print and place it into a selenium toner bath, I use a 1 to 9 dilution, and allow it to re-develop until it reaches a colour that you like. It can take quite a long time sometimes 30 mins or more.\n//-Les ~McLean//\n<<<

!!!Other names:\nHydrochinon; hydrokinone; hydroquinol; quinol; p-dihydroxybenzene; 1,4-dihydroxybenzene; 1,4-benzenediol; Tecquinol. \n!!!Description:\nThe white crystalline solid (needles or prisms) is very stable if kept dry and tightly closed in a container. \n!!!Precautions:\nUnder normal conditions of darkroom and laboratory use, hydroquinone is not a serious hazard but prolonged or repeated exposure or ingestion can result in skin dermatitis, intestinal irritation or death (from ingesting 3 to 12 grams), and discoloration and opacification of the cornea of the eye. Keep container tightly closed and protected from light. Use with adequate ventilation. Avoid breathing dust. Wash thoroughly after handling. Avoid contact with eyes, skin, and clothing. Wear safety glasses and rubber gloves. May be harmful if swallowed. \n!!!First Aid:\nIn case of contact, immediately flush skin or eyes with plenty of water for at least 15 minutes. Get medical attention for eyes. If swallowed, induce vomiting by giving lukewarm water containing table salt, Call a physician at once. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nD-76 Film Developer, Divided D-76 Film Developer (Variations), FX-11 Film Developer, FX-19 Film Developer, FX 37 Film Developer, Raphaelson GPQ Liquid Concentrate, GAF-125 Print Developer, Divided D-76 Film Developer (Variations), Print Developer 106, Brown Tone Print Developer (Agfa 120), Print Developer 130 Adams Version, Kodak D-72 Print Developer, Kodak D-155 Print Developer, WW-1 Print Developer, Two Bath Redevelopment Toners. \n

FormularyHypoAlum\nGAF222HypoAlumToner\nIlfordIT-2HypoAlumToner

//from UnblinkingEye//\n\n|Water (125º F)| 750 mL|\n|SodiumSulfite| 200 g|\n|SodiumBisulfite| 2 g|\n|Water to make| 1 L|\n\nDilute 1:9 for use.\n\n

!!!Other names: \nl-Phenyl-3-pyrazolidinone; trade names: Phenidone and Graphidone. \n!!!Description: \nOdorless leaflets or needles are obtained from benzene but usually supplied as a fine, white powder. \n!!!Precautions:\nCompound has low oral toxicity and has not caused dermatitis. Keep container closed and avoid breathing dust. Use with adequate ventilation. Wear safety glasses and gloves for protection against solutions which are usually alkaline. \n!!!First Aid:\nIf contact of the solutions is made with the eyes or skin, flush with plenty of water. Call a physician if there is eye irritation or if swallowed. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nChris Patton's E-76, FX-19 Film Developer, FX 37 Film Developer, Raphaelson GPQ Liquid Concentrate, Divided D-76 Film Developer (Variations), Mytol Film Developer (Xtol Substitute), Pyrocat-HD Film Developer, Chris Patton's E-72 Print Developer, \n

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n\n''For X-ray, Aerial and Scientific Films''\n|Water (125F/52C)| 750 mL|\n|[[Metol]]| 2.3 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, dessicated| 72 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 8.8 g|\n|SodiumCarbonate, monohydrated| 56 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 4 g|\n|>|Add cold water to make 1 L|\nRecommended development times for aerial films at 68F/20C are about 13 minutes in a spool tank or about 8 minutes in an automatic processing machine. For scientific materials see the instructions issued with medium.\n\n

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n\n''~Metol-Hydroquinone Developer''\n\n!!!Stock Solution\n|Water (125F/52C)| 750 mL|\n|[[Metol]]| 2 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, dessicated| 75 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 8 g|\n|SodiumCarbonate, monohydrated| 43 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 2 g|\n|>|Add cold water to make 1 L|\n!!!Tray Development\n*Dilute 1:2 Water\n*Develop 3 to 5 minutes, at 68F/20C\n!!!Tank Development\n*Dilute 1:5 Water\n*Develop 6 to 12 minutes at 68F/20C

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n''Metol Tank or Tray Developer''\nFor soft gradation and maximum shadow details.\n''Stock Solution A''\n|Water (125F/52C)| 750 mL|\n|[[Metol]]| 12 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, dessicated| 50 g|\n|>|Add cold water to make 1 L|\n''Stock Solution B''\n|Water (125F/52C| 750 mL|\n|SodiumCarbonate, mono| 87 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 2 g|\n|>|Add cold water to make 1 L|\n''Working Solution and Use''\nMix 1:1:6, A:B:Water,\nDevelop films and plates approximately 12 minutes in a tray or 5 minutes in a tank, and papers for 1-1/2 to 2 minutes. ~ID-3 may be made up in one solution, the superior keeping properties of the separate solutions make the two solution formula preferrable.

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n\n''~Metol-Hydroquinone Developer for Films, Plates and Papers''\n|Water (125F/52C) 750 mL|\n|[[Metol]]| 1.5 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, dessicated| 25 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 6.3 g|\n|SodiumCarbonate, monohydrated| 40.5 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 0.4 g|\n|>|Add cold water to make 1 L|\n*For ''Contact Papers'' use full strength; develop 45 to 60 seconds\n*For ''Enlarging Papers'' use 1:1 Water; develop 1-1/2 to 2 minutes\n*For ''Tray Development of Film'' 1:1 Water; develop 3 to 5 minutes\n*For ''Tank Development of Film'' 1:3 Water; develop 6 to 10 minutes

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n|Water (125F/52C)| 750 mL|\n|SodiumSulfite, dessicated| 20 g|\n|PotassiumCarbonate| 60 g|\n|[[Glycin]]| 30 g|\n|>|Add cold water to make 1 L|\nDilute 1:7 and develop for about 12 minutes in a tray or 15 minutes in a tank at 68F/20C.

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n|Water (125F/52C)| 750 mL|\n|SodiumSulfite, dessicated| 100 g|\n|[[Amidol]]| 20 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 6 g|\n|>|Add cold water to make 1 L|\nThis developer has very poor keeping qualities and shoudl be used as soon as possible, after mixing.\nDevelop 6 to 10 minutes at 68F/20C.

//from Morgan and Morgan//\n|Hot Water| 1L|\n|SodiumThiosulfate| 150 g|\nDissolve and then add, a little at a time:\n|PotassiumAlum| 25 g|\nUntil Ripened, this bath has a reducing action on prints; ripening is best done by imersing some spoiled prints, or by adding 0.12g silver nitrate, which has been previoulsy dissolved in a small amount of water.\n\nThis bath lasts for years and years, improves with keeping; it should be kept up to level by addition of fresh solution.\n\nThe prints, which should be developed a little further than for black and white, are toned at abouy 120F (50C) for about 10 minutes. A lower temperature is not recommended as toning is unduly prolonged; higher temperatures give colder tones.\n\nFinally, wash the prints thoroughly and swab with a atuft of cotton before drying.\n\nWarmer tones can be obtained by adding 1g of potassium iodide to each liter of toner.\n

//from PhotographersFormulary//\n\nReddish-brown to bright orange tones may be obtained toning a well washed sepia toned in Gold Toner (Ilford ~IT-4). The final tone depends on the depth of the sepia tone and the length of immersion in the gold bath. Prints intended for this treatment should be dark and contrasty.\n \nRed tones may be obtained on prints that have been first toned in PolysulfideToner (KodakT-8) or HypoAlum Sepia Toner, followed the Gold Toner (IlfordIT-4), where the sepia tone will change to reddish brown and then to red. Prints intended for this treatment should be dark and contrasty. Refixing is recommended.\n\nUnusual effects of mixed tones of blue-black shadows and soft reddish highlights can be produced by using prints which have been partially toned in a sulfide bath without initially bleaching the image. Toners to carry out this type of sulfide toning are HypoAlum Print Toner and PolysulfideToner. The well washed print is then toned in Gold Toner (IlfordIT-4). \n|Water (125F/52C)| 750 mL|\n|AmmoniumThiocyanate| 20 g|\n|GoldChloride| 1 g|\n|>|Cold Water to make 1L|\n\nSee HowtoUseIlfordIT-4Toner

Type the text for 'IlfordIT-5'

//from AnnClancy//\n\nA bleach for redevelopment, also used in Chinese Toning, see HowToChineseTone\n|Mehylated spirits| 100 mL|\n|Iodine crystals| As much as will dissolve, possibly 1 teaspoon|\nDilute 1:10 for use with water\n@@This bleach will stain everything. To remove stains, wipe down with weak fixer@@

http://jtsatterlee.com

Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner

//from AnnClancy//\n\n''for blue tones on chloride papers''\n\n|Distilled/dionised water| 750 mL|\n|[[Thiourea]] (ThioCarbamide)| 3 g|\n|CitricAcid | 1 g|\n|TriSodiumCitrate (optional buffer) | 12 g|\n|GoldChloride| 0.5 g|\n|Distilled/dionised water to make | 1 L|\n\nWorking strength--reuse until exhausted.\nThe thiourea may be increased to speed toning action.\nUse with one gram thiourea for alt-process toning.

//from Ann Clancy//\n\nFor PseudoLith you can use Kodak Lith Film Developer\n1 Part A + 1 Part B + 6 Parts Water; may add “old brown” 100ml to 100ml of A + B

!!!Other names:\nPotash sulfurated; sulfurated potassa; hepar sulfuris; liver of sulphur. \n!!!Precautions:\nKeep container tightly closed as liver of sulfur absorbs water and carbon dioxide from the air, resulting in the decomposition of the compound. Use with adequate ventilation. Do not breathe fumes or vapors as hydrogen sulfide is a poisonous gas. Avoid touching the solid with metal spatulas or spoons and avoid contacting with acid or acid salts, alcohol, or water containing much carbon dioxide, Avoid contact with eyes and skin. Wear safety glasses or goggles and rubber or similar gloves. Keep away from heat, sparks, and open flame as hydrogen sulfide is an explosive and flammable gas. \n!!!First Aid:\nIf hydrogen sulfide is inhaled, move to fresh air. In case of skin contact, flush with plenty of water. If eye contact is made, flush with plenty of water for at least 15 minutes, then call a physician or an eye specialist. If swallowed, get immediate aid from a physician. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nPolysulfide Toner (T-8). \n

TableOfContents\n>[[Formulas]]\n>[[Methods]]\n>ChemicalInfo\n\n[[Home]]\n\nGettingStarted

<<tabs tabClass\nChemicalDescriptions "" TaggedAsChemicalDescription\nChemicalWarnings "" TaggedAsChemicalWarning\nChemicalResources "" TaggedAsChemicalResources\n>>

<<tabs tabClass\nFilmDevelopers "" TaggedAsFilmDeveloper\nReplenishers "" TaggedAsReplenisher\nPaperDevelopers "" TaggedAsPaperDeveloper\n>>

<<tabs tabClass\nDevelopers "" MenuDevelopers\nFixers "" TaggedAsFixer\nBleaches "" TaggedAsBleaches\nToners "" TaggedAsToner\nMiscellaneous "" TaggedAsMiscellaneous\nByManufacturer "Information Organized by Manufacturer" MenuManufacturer\n>>\n\n

<<tabs tabClass\nAdox "" TaggedAsAdox\nAgfa "" TaggedAsAgfa\nAnsco "" TaggedAsAnsco\nCrawley "" TaggedAsCrawley\nEdwal ""TaggedAsEdwal\nGAF "" TaggedAsGAF\nGevaert "" TaggedAsGevaert\nIlford "" TaggedAsIlford\nKodak "" TaggedAsKodak\nPhotographersFormulary "" TaggedAsFormulary>>

<<tabs tabClass\nAbout "" TaggedAsAbout\nHowTo "" TaggedAsHowto\n>>

[[About]]\n[[HowTo]]

p-METHYLAMINOPHENOL SULFATE (METOL) \n!!!Other names:\nMonomethyl-p-aminophenol sulfate; p-hydroxymethylaniline sulfate; 4-methylaminophenol sulfate; and a large number of trade names (Elon, ~LIon, Genol, Graphol, Metol, ~Photo-Rex, Pictol, Planetol, Rhodol, Satrapol, Scalol, Verol, and Viterol, to mention only a few). \n!!!Description:\nThe free base, 4-methylaminophenol, is a crystalline compound, melting point 87°C, that is unstable in air and light, so that the compound is handled as a hydrochloride or sulfate salt. The white, odorless crystals of the sulfate salt (such as the commonly available Elon, Metol, and Pictol products) are fairly stable but may discolor in air in time, \n!!!Precautions:\nRepeated and prolonged contact can cause skin irritation and allergic skin reactions, reported to be not an inherent property of the compound but due to the presence of an impurity (N,N-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine) that occurs in some preparations. Use with adequate ventilation and avoid breathing the dust. Keep container tightly closed and protected from the light. Avoid contact with the eyes, skin, and clothing. May be harmful if swallowed. Wear safety glasses or goggles and rubber or similar impervious gloves when handling the compound or its solutions. Wash thoroughly after use. \n!!!First Aid:\nIf contact is made with the skin or eyes, flush with plenty of water. Get medical attention for skin irritation or dermatitis. If swallowed, induce vomiting by giving a glass of lukewarm salty water (2 teaspoonfuls of table salt per glass). Call a physician at once for further treatment. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nD-76 Film Developer, Divided D-76 Film Developer (Variations), Film Developer 25, Buetler High Acutance Film Developer, FX-1 Film Developer, FX-2 Film Developer, Burton 195 Film Developer, Divided D-76 Film Developer (Variations), PMK Film Developer, Gevaert Warm Tone Developer (GD-67), GAF 120 Soft Working Paper Developer, GAF-125 Print Developer, Print Developer 130 Adams Version, Kodak D-72 Print Developer, Kodak D-155 Print Developer, WW-1 Print Developer, Two Bath Redevelopment Toners. \n

//from PatrickDignan//\n\n|Water| 750 mL|\n|[[Metol]]| 7.5 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, anhydrous| 100 g|\n|SodiumBisulfite| 7.5 g|\n|>|Water to make 1 L|\n\nUse 1:3 with water, with normal times recommendation for Microdol-X

Type the text for 'NO2'

Type the text for 'Negatives'

//from UnblinkingEye//\n\n(for warm tones on chloride papers)\n\n''Stock Solution No. 1:''\n|Water (125º F)| 4 liters|\n|SodiumThiosulfate (hypo)| 960 g|\n|AmmoniumPersulfate|120 g|\nDissolve the hypo completely before adding the ammonium persulfate. An equal amount of potassium persulfate may be substituted. If the bath does not turn milky, increase the temperature until it does. Cool the solution before proceeding.\n\nPrepare the following solution and add it (including precipitate) slowly to the hypo-persulfate solution while stirring the latter rapidly. Both solutions must be cool.\n|Cold water| 64 mL|\n|SilverNitrate crystals| 5.2 g|\n|SodiumChloride (table salt)| 5.2 g|\nDissolve the silver nitrate completely before adding the salt. Do not use iodized salt.\n\n''Stock Solution No. 2:''\n|Water| 250 ml|\n|GoldChloride| 1 g|\nAdd 125 ml of Solution No. 2 slowly to Solution No.1 while stirring the latter rapidly. After mixing, the bath should not be used until it has become cool and has formed a sediment. Sediment formation may continue for several days or a week.\n\nPour off the clear liquid for use.\n\n''Process''\n*Add the clear solution to a tray standing in a water bath and heat the solution to 110º.\n*Dry prints should be soaked thoroughly in water before toning. Keep an untoned print at hand for comparison purposes.\n*Chloride papers should be toned between 100º and 110º Farenheit for 5 to 20 minutes. Most modern papers seem to require about 20 minutes. \n\n''After 50 8x10 inch prints have been toned, add 4 ml of Stock Solution No. 2 to the toner mixture.''

//from PatrickDignan//\n\nFX-1 looks very much like Beutler's formula, when the dilutions are taken into account. Beutler's is made in two stock solutions, diluted for use. The grain is incredible on fast film, and is essentially the same as NeofinBlue\n!!!Beutler's Formula\n''Solution A''\n|Water| 750 mL|\n|[[Metol]]| 10 g|\n|SodiumSulfite| 50 g|\n|>|Water to make 1 L|\n''Solution B''\n|Water| 750 mL|\n|SodiumCarbonate| 50 g|\n|>|Water to make 1 L|\n\nUse 1:1:8, A:B:Water\n\nThe metol in solution A is well preserved and will last 6 months or more in a partially filled bottle. Solution B will keep indefinitely.

/***\n|Name|NewHereCommand|\n|Source|http://simonbaird.com/mptw/#NewHereCommand|\n|Version|1.0|\n\nCode originally by ArphenLin. Small tweak by SimonBaird\nhttp://aiddlywiki.sourceforge.net/NewHere_demo.html#NewHereCommand\nTo use this you must edit your ViewTemplate and add newHere to the toolbar div, eg\n{{{<div class='toolbar' macro='toolbar ... newHere'></div>}}}\n***/\n//{{{\n\nconfig.commands.newHere = {\n text: 'new here',\n tooltip: 'Create a new tiddler tagged as this tiddler',\n handler: function(e,src,title) {\n if (!readOnly) {\n clearMessage();\n var t=document.getElementById('tiddler'+title);\n story.displayTiddler(t,config.macros.newTiddler.title,DEFAULT_EDIT_TEMPLATE);\n story.setTiddlerTag(config.macros.newTiddler.title, title, 0);\n story.focusTiddler(config.macros.newTiddler.title,"title");\n return false;\n }\n }\n};\n\nconfig.commands.newJournalHere = {\n //text: 'new journal here', // too long\n text: 'new journal',\n dataFormat: 'YYYY-0MM-0DD 0hh:0mm', // adjust to your preference\n tooltip: 'Create a new journal tiddler tagged as this tiddler',\n handler: function(e,src,title) {\n if (!readOnly) {\n clearMessage();\n var now = new Date();\n var t=document.getElementById('tiddler'+title);\n var newtitle = now.formatString(this.dataFormat)\n story.displayTiddler(t,newtitle,DEFAULT_EDIT_TEMPLATE);\n story.setTiddlerTag(newtitle, title, 0);\n story.focusTiddler(newtitle,"title");\n return false;\n }\n }\n};\n\n\n//}}}

!!!Other names:\nAqua foftis; hydrogen nitrate. \n!!!Description:\nNitric acid is a colorless liquid, fuming in moist air, with an acrid, choking odor. The concentrated acid contains about 69 to 71% NO2. Acid may become light brown in color in presence of light because of the release of NO~~2~~. The corrosive liquid attacks all base metals except aluminum and chromium steels. \n!!!Precautions:\nAvoid contact of nitric acid with the eyes, skin, or clothing as the acid causes severe burns. Avoid inhalation of the vapors or gaseous nitrous oxides as severe injury to the respiratory system or lungs may occur. Nitric acid is corrosive to most metals and may cause spontaneous ignition with wood or wood products, cotton and cotton waste, and similar organic products. Keep container closed except when in use; avoid breathing the vapor; and use with adequate ventilation. \n!!!First Aid:\nIf vapors are inhaled, carry patient to uncontaminated area and get medical attention. Symptoms following inhalation may be delayed for several hours. If contact with skin or clothing has been made, flush skin with plenty of water for at least 15 minutes. Immediately remove contaminated clothing, shoes and socks. If the acid contacts the eyes, immediately irrigate with large amounts of water for at least 15 minutes. If pain persists, irrigate another 15 minutes. Consult a physician, especially an eye specialist. If swallowed, the person should immediately drink large amounts of water to dilute the acid. Do not use carbonated alkalis as an antidote. Get medical attention. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nVandium Print Toner, \n

//from Ole Tjugen, referenced Dr E. Vogel: Taschenbuch der Praktischen Photographie, 1904//\n!!Toner Number One\n''Solution A''\n|[[Borax]]| 7.5 g|\n|Water| 1 L|\n''Solution B''\n|GoldChloride| 1 g|\n|Water| 50 mL|\nMix 200 mL Solution A and 3 mL just before use\n!!Toner Number Two\n''Solution A''\n|[[Borax]]| 3 g|\n|Water| 1 L|\n''Solution B''\n|SodiumAcetate| 4.5 g|\n|Water| 1 L|\n''Solution B''\n|GoldChloride| 1 g|\n|Water| 50 mL|\n100 mL A + 100 ml B + 8 mL C\n!!Toner Number Three\n|Water| 400 mL|\n|SodiumThiosulfate| 100 g|\n|SodiumAcetate| 8 g|\n|>|8 g LeadNitrate dissolved in 100 mL Water|\n|AmmoniumChloride| 25 g|\n|PotassiumCitrate| 20 g|\n|CitricAcid| 5 g|\n|1% GoldChlorideSolution| 25 mL|

!!!Description:\nThe anhydrous acid is an oderless, crystalline solid, whitish in color, that absorbs moisture from the air. The oderless, whitish crystals of the dihydrate are a different form than those of the anhyrous acid, giving off water of crystallization when heated to 101.5°C, the melting point. \n!!!Precautions:\nOxalic acid is an irritant to the eyes, mucous membranes, and skin; swallowing as little as 5 grams has been reported to cause death. Avoid contact with the liquid, dust, or mist (from hot solutions). Protect the eyes with safety glasses and wear rubber gloves for hand protection. Do not inhale dust or mist. Avoid contact with eyes. Avoid prolonged or repeated contact with the skin. Do not swallow. Keep container closed and use with adequate ventilation. \n!!!First Aid:\nIf contact is made with the liquid, flush eyes or skin with plenty of water. If swallowed, give copious quantities of milk, milk of magnesia, calcium lactate, or a dilute solution of any calcium or magnesium salt. Call a physician immediately. \n!!!Photographic Formulas: \nUranium Print Toner, Vandium Print Toner. \n

|Water (100F)| 400 mL|\n|AmmoniumThiocyanate| 12.5 g|\n|TartaricAcid| 1 g|\n|1% GoldChlorideSolution| 10 mL|\n|>|Water to make 500 mL|

Type the text for 'Palladium'

|>|>|>|!4x5 Drop Count| |>|>|>|!8x10 Drop Count|\n|| ''A'' | ''B'' | ''C'' | | | ''A''| ''B'' | ''C'' |\n| #1 | 11| 0 | 12 | | #1 | 22 | 0 | 24 |\n|||||| #2 | 21 | 1 | 24 |\n| #2 | 10 | 1 | 12 | | #3 | 20 | 2 | 24 |\n|||||| #4 | 19 | 3 | 24|\n| #3 | 9 | 2 | 12 | | #5 | 18 | 4 | 24 |\n|||||| #6 | 17 | 5 | 24 |\n| #4 | 8 | 3 | 12 | | #7 | 16 | 6 | 24 |\n|||||| #8 | 15 | 7 | 24 |\n|bgcolor(lightgreen): #5 |bgcolor(lightgreen): 7 |bgcolor(lightgreen): 4 |bgcolor(lightgreen): 12 |bgcolor(lightgreen): |bgcolor(lightgreen): #9 |bgcolor(lightgreen): 14 |bgcolor(lightgreen): 8 |bgcolor(lightgreen): 24 |\n|||||| #10 | 13 | 9 | 24 |\n| #6 | 6 | 5 | 12 | | #11 | 12 | 10 | 24 |\n|||||| #12 | 11 | 11 | 24 |\n| #7 | 5 | 6 | 12 | | #13 | 10 | 12 | 24 |\n|||||| #14 | 9 | 13 | 24 |\n| #8 | 4 | 7 | 12 | | #15 | 8 | 14 | 24 |\n|||||| #16 | 7 | 15 | 24 |\n| #9 | 3 | 8 | 12| | #17 | 6 | 16 | 24 |\n|||||| #18 | 5 | 17 | 24 |\n| #10 | 2 | 9 | 12 | | #19 | 4 | 18 | 24 |\n|||||| #20 | 3 | 19 | 24 |\n| #11 | 1 | 10 | 12 | | #21 | 2 | 20 | 24 |\n|||||| #21 | 1 | 21 | 24 |\n| #12 | 0 | 11 | 12 | | #23 | 0 | 22 | 24 |\n*Solution #1 is a low contrast sensitizer for high contrast negatives\n*Solutions #5 and #9 are equivalent to Grade #2 Silver Paper\n*Solutions #12 and #23 are high contrast sensitizers for low contrast negatives \n\n

//Richard Sullivan's Formulas//\n!!!Solution 1 - for Palladium and Platinum\n|FerricOxalate Powder| 6.7 g|\n|OxalicAcid (optional)| 0.5 g |\n|EDTA (optional)| 1.0 g|\n|>|Distilled Water 25 mL|\n!!!Solution 2 - Platinum\n|PotassiumChlorate| 0.15 g|\n|FerricOxalate| 6.7 g|\n|OxalicAcid (optional)| 0.5 g|\n|EDTA (optional)| 1.0 g|\n|>|Distilled Water 25 mL|\n!!!Solution 2 - Palladium (or Combination Pd/Pt)\n|PotassiumChlorate| 0.30 g|\n|FerricOxalate| 6.7 g|\n|Oxalic Acid (optional)| 0.5 g|\n|Distilled Water| 25 mL|\n!!!Chemical Notes\n''Oxalic Acid'' Adding this can increase printing speed; however, it can also contribute to a decrease in print contrast. The addition is optional, it may not always increase priniting speed, but it will reduce print contrast.\n''EDTA'' Is a chelating agent and allows the Ferric oxalate to dissolve easily. It does not alter contrast. If you use chelated Ferric oxalate and clear it with an acid bath, a lavender staining may occur. To avoid this it is best to acidify with a small addition of acid salt. Add 1 tablespoon of oxalic acid per quart of oxalic developer. With a citrate developer add 1 tablespoon or citric acid per quart of developer.\n\n

Developers for Paper

\n|Standard Periodic Table (ref. Wikipedia)|c\n|| !1 | !2 |!| !3 | !4 | !5 | !6 | !7 | !8 | !9 | !10 | !11 | !12 | !13 | !14 | !15 | !16 | !17 | !18 |\n|!1|bgcolor(#a0ffa0): @@color(red):H@@ |>|>|>|>|>|>|>|>|>|>|>|>|>|>|>|>||bgcolor(#c0ffff): @@color(red):He@@ |\n|!2|bgcolor(#ff6666): Li |bgcolor(#ffdead): Be |>|>|>|>|>|>|>|>|>|>||bgcolor(#cccc99): B |bgcolor(#a0ffa0): C |bgcolor(#a0ffa0): @@color(red):N@@ |bgcolor(#a0ffa0): @@color(red):O@@ |bgcolor(#ffff99): @@color(red):F@@ |bgcolor(#c0ffff): @@color(red):Ne@@ |\n|!3|bgcolor(#ff6666): Na |bgcolor(#ffdead): Mg |>|>|>|>|>|>|>|>|>|>||bgcolor(#cccccc): Al |bgcolor(#cccc99): Si |bgcolor(#a0ffa0): P |bgcolor(#a0ffa0): S |bgcolor(#ffff99): @@color(red):Cl@@ |bgcolor(#c0ffff): @@color(red):Ar@@ |\n|!4|bgcolor(#ff6666): K |bgcolor(#ffdead): Ca ||bgcolor(#ffc0c0): Sc |bgcolor(#ffc0c0): Ti |bgcolor(#ffc0c0): V |bgcolor(#ffc0c0): Cr |bgcolor(#ffc0c0): Mn |bgcolor(#ffc0c0): Fe |bgcolor(#ffc0c0): Co |bgcolor(#ffc0c0): Ni |bgcolor(#ffc0c0): Cu |bgcolor(#ffc0c0): Zn |bgcolor(#cccccc): Ga |bgcolor(#cccc99): Ge |bgcolor(#cccc99): As |bgcolor(#a0ffa0): Se |bgcolor(#ffff99): @@color(green):Br@@ |bgcolor(#c0ffff): @@color(red):Kr@@ |\n|!5|bgcolor(#ff6666): Rb |bgcolor(#ffdead): Sr ||bgcolor(#ffc0c0): Y |bgcolor(#ffc0c0): Zr |bgcolor(#ffc0c0): Nb |bgcolor(#ffc0c0): Mo |bgcolor(#ffc0c0): Tc |bgcolor(#ffc0c0): Ru |bgcolor(#ffc0c0): Rh |bgcolor(#ffc0c0): Pd |bgcolor(#ffc0c0): Ag |bgcolor(#ffc0c0): Cd |bgcolor(#cccccc): In |bgcolor(#cccccc): Sn |bgcolor(#cccc99): Sb |bgcolor(#cccc99): Te |bgcolor(#ffff99): I |bgcolor(#c0ffff): @@color(red):Xe@@ |\n|!6|bgcolor(#ff6666): Cs |bgcolor(#ffdead): Ba |bgcolor(#ffbfff):^^*1^^|bgcolor(#ffc0c0): Lu |bgcolor(#ffc0c0): Hf |bgcolor(#ffc0c0): Ta |bgcolor(#ffc0c0): W |bgcolor(#ffc0c0): Re |bgcolor(#ffc0c0): Os |bgcolor(#ffc0c0): Ir |bgcolor(#ffc0c0): Pt |bgcolor(#ffc0c0): Au |bgcolor(#ffc0c0): @@color(green):Hg@@ |bgcolor(#cccccc): Tl |bgcolor(#cccccc): Pb |bgcolor(#cccccc): Bi |bgcolor(#cccc99): Po |bgcolor(#ffff99): At |bgcolor(#c0ffff): @@color(red):Rn@@ |\n|!7|bgcolor(#ff6666): Fr |bgcolor(#ffdead): Ra |bgcolor(#ff99cc):^^*2^^|bgcolor(#ffc0c0): Lr |bgcolor(#ffc0c0): Rf |bgcolor(#ffc0c0): Db |bgcolor(#ffc0c0): Sq |bgcolor(#ffc0c0): Bh |bgcolor(#ffc0c0): Hs |bgcolor(#ffc0c0): Mt |bgcolor(#ffc0c0): Ds |bgcolor(#ffc0c0): Rg |bgcolor(#ffc0c0): @@color(green):Uub@@ |bgcolor(#cccccc): Uut |bgcolor(#cccccc): Uuq |bgcolor(#cccccc): Uup |bgcolor(#cccccc): Uuh |bgcolor(#fcfecc): @@color(#cccccc):Uus@@ |bgcolor(#ecfefc): @@color(#cccccc):Uuo@@ |\n\n| !Lanthanides^^*1^^|bgcolor(#ffbfff): La |bgcolor(#ffbfff): Ce |bgcolor(#ffbfff): Pr |bgcolor(#ffbfff): Nd |bgcolor(#ffbfff): Pm |bgcolor(#ffbfff): Sm |bgcolor(#ffbfff): Eu |bgcolor(#ffbfff): Gd |bgcolor(#ffbfff): Tb |bgcolor(#ffbfff): Dy |bgcolor(#ffbfff): Ho |bgcolor(#ffbfff): Er |bgcolor(#ffbfff): Tm |bgcolor(#ffbfff): Yb |\n| !Actinides^^*2^^|bgcolor(#ff99cc): Ac |bgcolor(#ff99cc): Th |bgcolor(#ff99cc): Pa |bgcolor(#ff99cc): U |bgcolor(#ff99cc): Np |bgcolor(#ff99cc): Pu |bgcolor(#ff99cc): Am |bgcolor(#ff99cc): Cm |bgcolor(#ff99cc): Bk |bgcolor(#ff99cc): Cf |bgcolor(#ff99cc): Es |bgcolor(#ff99cc): Fm |bgcolor(#ff99cc): Md |bgcolor(#ff99cc): No |\n\n*Chemical Series of the Periodic Table\n**@@bgcolor(#ff6666): Alkali metals@@\n**@@bgcolor(#ffdead): Alkaline earth metals@@\n**@@bgcolor(#ffbfff): Lanthanides@@\n**@@bgcolor(#ff99cc): Actinides@@\n**@@bgcolor(#ffc0c0): Transition metals@@\n**@@bgcolor(#cccccc): Poor metals@@\n**@@bgcolor(#cccc99): Metalloids@@\n**@@bgcolor(#a0ffa0): Nonmetals@@\n**@@bgcolor(#ffff99): Halogens@@\n**@@bgcolor(#c0ffff): Noble gases@@\n\n*State at standard temperature and pressure\n**those in @@color(red):red@@ are gases\n**those in @@color(green):green@@ are liquids\n**those in black are solids\n

also called I-PHENYL-3-PYRAZOLIDONE

http://www.photoformulary.com

//from WynnWhite//\n<<<\nIf I want a warmer brown than that of untoned Ilford Warmtone I use polysulfide toner which will deliver anything from a chocolate brown to a rich reddish brown depending how long it is treated. Polysulfide toner gives me a brown that I like in all warm toned papers that I have used. It's major drawback is that it is not commercially produced. It is necessary to purchase the chemicals and make the solution yourself. I am told that it is basically the same as Kodak brown toner but, in my experience, I find it to be different. This may have something to do with the chemistry of my water supply. Polysulfide is also known as potash sulfurated, liver of sulfur, sulfurated potassa, and hepar sulfuris.\n//Wynn White//\n<<<\n|Water| 750 mL|\n|Polysulfide, 30% solution| 25 mL|\n|SodiumCarbonate, monohydrate| 2.4 g|\n|>|Water to make 1L|\n\nImmerse the well-washed print in the bath and agitate it Until the desired tone is achieved. This might be as long as 15 to 20 minutes at 20°C. Heating the solution to 100°C will greatly speed up the process. After the desired tone has been reached the print should be placed in a 10% sodium sulfite solution to stop the toning action. If this is not done the print will continue to tone even while in the wash.

!!!Other names:\nAlum; potash alum; common alum; white alum; potassium aluminum sulfate; aluminum potassium sulfate dodecahydrate. \nDescription: The colorless, odorless, large transparent crystals or white crystalline powder have a sweet, astringent taste and are stable at ordinary temperatures but lose 18 H~~2~~O at 64.5°C (melting at 92.5°C). \n!!!Precautions:\nThe compound is stable in air and not considered toxic. Avoid breathing dust. Avoid contact with eyes, skin, and clothing. Wear safety glasses and rubber gloves when handling. Do not inhale or swallow. Wash after handling. \n!!!First Aid:\nIf contact is made with the skin or eyes, flush thoroughly with plenty of water to remove the acidic compound. Call a physician for the irritation of the skin or eyes. If inhaled or swallowed, call a physician. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nDivided D-76 Film Developer (Variations), Fixer 6a, Hypo-Alum Sepia Toner, Thiourea Toner, Thiourea Carbonate Toner,

!!!Other names:\nBromide of potassium or potash. \n!!!Description:\nColorless crystals or white granules or powder that give an aqueous solution with a strong, bitter salty taste. The solid has a slight tendency to take up moisture from the air and is very soluble in water: one gram dissolves in 1.0 ml water or 1.0 ml boiling water. \n!!!Precautions:\nPotassium bromide is moderately toxic if large amounts are inhaled or swallowed. Keep container tightly closed; use with adequate ventilation. Do not breathe dust. \n!!!First Aid:\nIf potassium bromide is inhaled or swallowed in considerable quantity, consult a physician. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nDivided D-76 Film Developer (Variations), FX-11 Film Developer, GAF-125 Print Developer, FX 37 Film Developer, Divided D-76 Film Developer (Variations), Gevaert Warm Tone Developer (GD-67), Print Developer 106, GAF 120 Soft Working Paper Developer, Print Developer 130 Adams Version, Chris Patton's E-72 Print Developer, Kodak D-72 Print Developer, Kodak D-155 Print Developer, Pyrocat-HD Film Developer, Sepia Sulfide 221 Toner, Flemish Toner, Dassonville T-56 Bleach and Redevelop Selenium Toner. Tin Print Toner, Thiourea Toner, Thiourea Carbonate Toner, WW-1 Print Developer, Warm-Tone Redeveloper. \n

!!!Other names:\nPotash; pearl ash; salt of tartar; salt of wormwood. \n!!!Description:\nBefore 1870 potassium carbonate was obtained from ashes (potash) which, after recrystallization, were called pearl ash. The anhydrous potassium carbonate consists of odorless, white, translucent granules or powder which absorb water from the air. \n!!!Precautions:\nKeep container tightly closed. Use with adequate ventilation. Do not inhale dust. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. Wear safety glasses or goggles and rubber or similar impervious gloves. Wash after handling. Do not swallow. Solutions are irritating to tissue but less severe than potassium hydroxide. \n!!!First Aid:\nIn case of contact, immediately flush eyes or skin with plenty of water for at least 15 minutes. If a physician is not immediately available, irrigate eyes for an additional 15 minutes, then get medical help. Remove contaminated clothing and wash before re-use. If swallowed, dilute the chemical by drinking large quantities of water or milk, followed by dilute vinegar or fruit juice to neutralize the alkali. Do not induce vomiting. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nFX-2 Film Developer, Pyrocat-HD Film Developer, Brown Tone Print Developer (Agfa 120), \n

!!!Other name:\nTribasic citrate of potash. \n!!!Description:\nThe odorless, colorless or white crystals, granules, or powder with a cooling, saline taste absorb water from the air but lose all water at 180°C. \n!!!Precautions:\nKeep container tightly closed. Do not make up water solutions before needed and use promptly. Follow good darkroom or laboratory practices in handling this nontoxic compound. \n!!!First Aid:\nPotassium citrate is widely used for food and medicinal preparations and it would not be expected that first aid measures would be needed with this edible compound. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nCopper Print Toner, Red Toner. \n

!!!Other names:\nPotassium bichromale; red potassium chromate. \n!!!Description:\nPotassium dichromate is available as odorless, non-combustible, bright orange-red crystals in granular and powdered forms that do not absorb water from the air (unlike sodium dichromate that does take up moisture). \n!!!Precautions:\nAs dust, solution mist, or solution, potassium dichromate can irritate the eyes, mucous membranes, and skin, causing ulceration of skin wounds, but if ingested tends to be self-purging from the system. Keep container closed; use with adequate ventilation; avoid breathing dust or solution spray. Wash thoroughly after handling. Wear safely glasses to protect the eyes. Wear rubber or similiar impervious gloves to protect the hands. \n!!!First Aid:\nGive first aid at once to decrease the severity of any effect. Immediately after contact flush eyes or skin with plenty of water for at least 15 minutes. For the eyes consult a physician, preferably an eye specialist, without delay. Swallowing potassium dichromate will usually induce vomiting and purging. Even so, given an emetic such as soapy water followed by drinking as much water as possible. Persistent dermatitis or "chrome sores" (hard, discolored ulcers) should be treated by a physician. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nTwo Bath Redevelopment Toners\n

//from PhotographersFormulary//\n!!!The 10% Potassium Dichromate Solution for Contrast Control\n|water (52C/125F)| 50 mL|\n|PotassiumDichromate| 5 g|\nPlace the water in a mixing bowl and add the solid.\nStir the mixture with a glass or plastic rod until the solid goes into solution.\nStore the solution in a bottle with plastic cap. (Do not use a metal cap; the dichromate will corrode it.)\nSince potassium dichromate is toxic, we recommend that you mix this solution in a sink and, after mixing, wash all the utensils before removing them from the sink.\n''We strongly recommend that you wear rubber gloves when mixing and handling this solution.''\n

!!!Other names:\nPotassium hexacyanoferrate; red prussiate of potash; red potassium prussiate; red prussiate. \n!!!Description:\nThe bright red crystals or powder should be free from any yellow powdery coating. \n!!!Precautions:\nStore the compound in a cool, dry place, and protect from the light and air. Keep the container tightly closed and do not heat strongly solid or solutions. Use with adequate ventilation. Protect solution from light and air. Purchase fresh and pure compound for photographic use. Wear safety glasses and rubber gloves to avoid contact with the compound. Although ferricyanide is considered to have low toxicity, avoid inhaling dust or swallowing. \n!!!First Aid:\nIn case of contact with eyes or skirt, flush with plenty of water. If the dust is inhaled or the compound swallowed, call a physician. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nBlue Toner (GT-14), Copper Print Toner, Iron Blue Toner, Iron Green/Blue Toner, Ferricyanide-Iron Blue, Red Toner, Sepia Sulfide 221 Toner, Flemish Toner, Dassonville T-56 Bleach and Redevelop Selenium Toner. Thiourea Toner, Thiourea Carbonate Toner, Tin Print Toner, Uranium Toner, Uranium Print Toner, Uranium Toner (Kodak T-9), Vandium Print Toner, Warm-Tone Redeveloper, Two Bath Redevelopment Toners.

//from PhotographersFormulary//\nWarningPotassiumFerricyanide\nA basic bleach for Thiourea toning.\n@@Store in dark brown bottle@@\n|Distilled Water (52°C/125°F)| 750 mL|\n|PotassiumFerricyanide| 50 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 10 g|\n|SodiumCarbonate, Monohydrate| 20 g|\n|>|Cold Water To Make 1000 mL|\nIt is best to store this working bleach solution in the dark. Potassium ferricyanide solutions are somewhat light sensitive. Should the stock solution turn blue (from photo-formed ferrous ions reacting with the ferricyanide to form Prussian blue) the bleach has been ruined and must be discarded.

!!!Other names:\nCaustic potash; potassa; potassium hydrate. \n!!!Description:\nPotassium hydroxide is available as white lumps, pellets, sticks, or cake. Rapidly absorbs water vapor and carbon dioxide from the air, forming carbonate which changes its alkalinity. Aqueous solutions attack wool, leather, and some metals, such as aluminum, lead, tin, and zinc. \n!!!Precautions:\nKeep container closed except when in use; do not handle with bare hands; wash thoroughly after handling. The solid or liquid causes burns on contact with body tissues, often with deep ulceration and ultimate scarring, so avoid contact with eyes, face, neck, skin, or inhalation of the dust or mist. Wear eye, face, skin, and hand protection. Chemical safety goggles for the eyes and gloves (neoprene, rubber, or vinyl) for the hands should always be worn. \n!!!First Aid:\nIn case of contact, immediately flush eyes or skin with plenty of water for at least 15 minutes. If a physician is not immediately available, wash eyes for another 15 minutes and skin for additional one to two hours. Get medical attention, especially an eye specialist for the eyes. Remove contaminated clothing and shoes, and wash before re-use. If taken internally, dilute the chemical by drinking large quantities of water or milk, followed by dilute vinegar or fruit juice to accomplish neutralization of the alkali. Do not induce vomiting. \n!!!Note: \nWhen making solutions, add compound slowly with agitation to the surface of the solution to avoid violent spattering. Hot water should not be used. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nParaminophenolate (Rodinal Type) Film Developer, Tin Print Toner

!!!Other name:\nIodide of potash. \n!!!Description:\nColorless or white crystals, white granules or powder absorb water from moist air. Long exposure to moist air and light cause solid to yellow because of liberation of iodine and iodate. \n!!!Precautions:\nPotassium iodide is incompatible with calomel, potassium chlorate, metallic salts, and tartaric and other acids. Store solid in a cool, dark place and keep container tightly closed. Use with adequate ventilation. Do not breathe dust or swallow. \n!!!First Aid:\nThe compound is considered to have low toxicity but if considerable amounts are swallowed, consult a physician. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nFX-1 Film Developer, Divided D-76 Film Developer (Variations), Hypo-Alum Sepia Toner. \n

!!!Other names:\nPotassium pyrosulfite. \n!!!Description:\nThe white crystals or crystalline powder have an odor of sulfur dioxide and oxidize in air, especially moist air, to sulfate. \n!!!Precautions:\nKeep container closed and store in a cool, dry place. Use with adequate ventilation. Do not inhale dust or fumes. Keep away from acids, either during storage or in use. Avoid contact with skin and eyes. Do not swallow. \n!!!First Aid:\nIf inhaled, remove to fresh air. If contact is made, flush eyes and skin with plenty of water. If swallowed, immediately call a physician. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nTwo Bath Redevelopment Toners. \n

!!!Other names:\nNeutral oxalate of potash; oxalic acid, dipotassium salt. \n!!!Description:\nThe colorless, odorless, transparent crystals slowly lose water in warm, dry air, losing all water at about 160°C. Decomposes into carbonate when heated. \n!!!Precautions:\nKeep container tightly closed and store in a cool place. Use with adequate ventilation and do not breathe dust or hot vapors. Oxalate salts are an irritant to the eyes, skin, and mucous membranes, as well as being toxic if ingested. Avoid contact with eyes, skin, and clothing. Wear safety glasses or goggles and rubber or similar impervious gloves. Wash thoroughly after handling. Do not swallow. \n!!!First Aid:\nIf inhaled, remove from exposure. Flush contaminated skin with plenty of water. Remove contaminated clothing and wash before re-use. If contact is made with eyes, irrigate thoroughly with plenty of water for about 15 minutes, then call a physician or eye specialist. If swallowed, immediately contact a physician for treatment, as convulsions, shock, and kidney damage often result. Ingesting an oxalate should be considered an emergency. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nSepia Sulfide 221 Toner, Uranium Toner (Kodak T-9)\n

!!!Other names:\nPotassium persulphate; potassium peroxydisulfate; persulfate of potash; trade name: Anthion. \n!!!Description:\nThe oderless, colorless or white crystals have been reported to have excellent storage stability and to be practically unaffected by exposure to the atmosphere. The commercial product, containing about 93 to 97% K~~2~~S~~2~~O~~8~~, is said to decompose slowly, losing available oxygen, and more rapidly at higher temperatures, completely at about 100°C. \n!!!Precautions:\nKeep container tightly closed and store in a cool, dry place. Do not contaminate with, or store near combustible materials. The compound is an irritant and moderately toxic. Avoid contact with eyes, skin or mucous membranes. Wear safety glasses and rubber gloves when handling. Do not inhale dust or swallow. \n!!!First Aid:\nIn case of contact with skin or eyes, flush with plenty of water for about 15 minutes. For serious skin irritation or contact of any kind with eyes, call a physician. If swallowed, get medical attention. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nNelson Gold Print Toner. \n

!!Other names:\nPotassium sulfocyanate; potassium sulphocyanate; potassium sulfocanide; potassium rhodanide. \n!!!Description:\nThe colorless or white crystals are soluble in water (217 grams in 100 grams of water at 20°C), taking up moisture very easily from the air. Purity of the solid is often a minimum of 99%. \n!!!Precautions:\nKeep container tightly closed and store in a cool, dry place. Avoid contact with the eyes, skin, and respiratory system. Wear safety glasses and rubber gloves. Wash thoroughly after handling as the compound may cause skin erruptions. May be harmful if inhaled or swallowed. \n!!!First Aid:\nIf contact is made with eyes or skin, flush immediatly with plenty of water. Call a physician about eye and skin irritations. If swallowed call a physician at once. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nGAF231GoldToner\n

Type the text for 'Prints'

''To make 2 Liters:''\n|SodiumThiosulfate| 480 g|\n|water, heated to 125F| 1500 mL|\nmix in sodium thiosulfate until dissolved\nadd more water to make 2L\nuse fresh and as is

!!!Other names:\nPyro; pyrogallic acid; 1,2,3-trihydroxybenzene; 1,2,3-beazene-triol; Piral (trade name for crystallized pyrogallol). \n!!!Description:\nThe pure compound is an extremely light, fine white powder of very fine crystals. Because the fine crystals tend to float into the air at the slightest movement of the air, a crystallized form (large colorless crystals) is available, causing less trouble to weigh and mix than the finer crystalline, fluffy needles. Fairly stable in tightly closed containers but turns gray on exposure to air and light. \n!!!Precautions:\nPyrogallol is considered poisonous because it is harmful if absorbed through the skin or swallowed. Avoid contact with eyes, skin, or clothing. Wear safety glasses to protect eyes and rubber gloves for hand protection. Keep container tightly closed and protected from light. Use with adequate ventilation, and use, if possible, the crystallized form to minimize danger of inhalation and skin contact. Wash thoroughly after handling. Avoid contact with low-sulfite alkaline solutions of pyro, such as a developing solution, as such solutions stain the skin brown and risk poisoning through absorption through the skin. \n!!!First Aid:\nIf contact is made, flush the skin and eyes with plenty of water for about 15 minutes. If extensive areas of the skin have been contacted or for the eyes, consult a physician. If inhaled or ingested, get medical attention immediately, as pyrogallol can cause degeneration of the kidneys and liver as well as removing the oxygen from the blood (resulting in death). \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nPMK Film Developer. \n

/***\n| Name:|QuickOpenTagPlugin|\n| Purpose:|Makes tag links into a Taggly style open tag plus a normal style drop down menu|\n| Creator:|SimonBaird|\n| Source:|http://simonbaird.com/mptw/#QuickOpenTagPlugin|\n| Requires:|TW 2.x|\n| Version|1.1.1 (19-May-06)|\n\n!History\n* Version 1.1.1 (19/05/2006)\n** Added a little more CSS so the tags look good in standard main menus and normal tiddlers\n* Version 1.1 (07/02/2006)\n** Fix Firefox 1.5.0.1 crashes\n** Updated by ~BidiX[at]~BidiX.info\n* Version 1.0 (?/01/2006)\n** First release\n\n***/\n//{{{\n\n//⊻ ⊽ ⋁ ▼ \n\nwindow.createTagButton_orig_mptw = createTagButton;\nwindow.createTagButton = function(place,tag,excludeTiddler) {\n var sp = createTiddlyElement(place,"span",null,"quickopentag");\n createTiddlyLink(sp,tag,true,"button");\n var theTag = createTiddlyButton(sp,config.macros.miniTag.dropdownchar,config.views.wikified.tag.tooltip.format([tag]),onClickTag);\n theTag.setAttribute("tag",tag);\n if(excludeTiddler)\n theTag.setAttribute("tiddler",excludeTiddler);\n return(theTag);\n};\n\nconfig.macros.miniTag = {handler:function(place,macroName,params,wikifier,paramString,tiddler) {\n var tagged = store.getTaggedTiddlers(tiddler.title);\n if (tagged.length > 0) {\n var theTag = createTiddlyButton(place,config.macros.miniTag.dropdownchar,config.views.wikified.tag.tooltip.format([tiddler.title]),onClickTag);\n theTag.setAttribute("tag",tiddler.title);\n theTag.className = "miniTag";\n }\n}};\n\nconfig.macros.miniTag.dropdownchar = (document.all?"▼":"▾"); // the fat one is the only one that works in IE\n\nconfig.macros.allTags.handler = function(place,macroName,params)\n{\n var tags = store.getTags();\n var theDateList = createTiddlyElement(place,"ul",null,null,null);\n if(tags.length === 0)\n createTiddlyElement(theDateList,"li",null,"listTitle",this.noTags);\n for (var t=0; t<tags.length; t++)\n {\n var theListItem =createTiddlyElement(theDateList,"li",null,null,null);\n var theLink = createTiddlyLink(theListItem,tags[t][0],true);\n var theCount = " (" + tags[t][1] + ")";\n theLink.appendChild(document.createTextNode(theCount));\n\n var theDropDownBtn = createTiddlyButton(theListItem," "+config.macros.miniTag.dropdownchar,this.tooltip.format([tags[t][0]]),onClickTag);\n theDropDownBtn.setAttribute("tag",tags[t][0]);\n }\n};\n\n\n// probably could redo these styles a bit cleaner..\nsetStylesheet(\n ".tagglyTagged .quickopentag, .tagged .quickopentag \sn"+\n " { margin-right:1.2em; border:1px solid #eee; padding:2px; padding-right:0px; padding-left:1px; }\sn"+\n ".quickopentag .tiddlyLink { padding:2px; padding-left:3px; }\sn"+\n ".quickopentag a.button { padding:1px; padding-left:2px; padding-right:2px;}\sn"+\n// extra specificity to make it work?\n "#displayArea .viewer .quickopentag a.button, \sn"+\n "#displayArea .viewer .quickopentag a.tiddyLink, \sn"+\n "#mainMenu .quickopentag a.tiddyLink, \sn"+\n "#mainMenu .quickopentag a.tiddyLink \sn"+\n " { border:0px solid black; }\sn"+\n "#displayArea .viewer .quickopentag a.button, \sn"+\n "#mainMenu .quickopentag a.button \sn"+\n "{ margin-left:0px; padding-left:2px; }\sn"+\n "#displayArea .viewer .quickopentag a.tiddlyLink, \sn"+\n "#mainMenu .quickopentag a.tiddlyLink \sn"+\n " { margin-right:0px; padding-right:0px; padding-left:0px; margin-left:0px; }\sn"+\n "a.miniTag {font-size:150%;} \sn"+\n "#mainMenu .quickopentag a.button \sn"+\n "{ margin-left:0px; padding-left:2px; margin-right:0px; padding-right:0px; }\sn"+ // looks better in right justified main menus\n "",\n"QuickOpenTagStyles");\n\n//}}}\n\n/***\n<html>⊻ ⊽ ⋁ ▼ ▾</html>\n***/\n

/***\n| Name:|RenameTagsPlugin|\n| Purpose:|Allows you to easily rename tags|\n| Creator:|SimonBaird|\n| Source:|http://simonbaird.com/mptw/#RenameTagsPlugin|\n| Version:|1.0.1 (5-Mar-06)|\n\n!Description\nIf you rename a tiddler/tag that is tagging other tiddlers this plugin will ask you if you want to rename the tag in each tiddler where it is used. This is essential if you use tags and ever want to rename them. To use it, open the tag you want to rename as a tiddler (it's the last option in the tag popup menu), edit it, rename it and click done. You will asked if you want to rename the tag. Click OK to rename the tag in the tiddlers that use it. Click Cancel to not rename the tag.\n\n!Example\nTry renaming [[Plugins]] or [[CSS]] on this site.\n\n!History\n* 1.0.1 (5-Mar-06) - Added feature to allow renaming of tags without side-effect of creating a tiddler\n* 1.0.0 (5-Mar-06) - First working version\n\n!Code\n***/\n//{{{\n\nversion.extensions.RenameTagsPlugin = {\n major: 1, minor: 0, revision: 0,\n date: new Date(2006,3,5),\n source: "http://simonbaird.com/mptw/#RenameTagsPlugin"\n};\n\nconfig.macros.RenameTagsPlugin = {};\nconfig.macros.RenameTagsPlugin.prompt = "Rename the tag '%0' to '%1' in %2 tidder%3?";\n\n// these are very useful, perhaps they should be in the core\nif (!store.addTag) {\n store.addTag = function(title,tag) {\n var t=this.getTiddler(title); if (!t || !t.tags) return;\n t.tags.push(tag);\n };\n};\n\nif (!store.removeTag) {\n store.removeTag = function(title,tag) {\n var t=this.getTiddler(title); if (!t || !t.tags) return;\n if (t.tags.find(tag)!=null) t.tags.splice(t.tags.find(tag),1);\n };\n};\n\nstore.saveTiddler_orig_tagrename = store.saveTiddler;\nstore.saveTiddler = function(title,newTitle,newBody,modifier,modified,tags) {\n if (title != newTitle && this.getTaggedTiddlers(title).length > 0) {\n // then we are renaming a tag\n var tagged = this.getTaggedTiddlers(title);\n if (confirm(config.macros.RenameTagsPlugin.prompt.format([title,newTitle,tagged.length,tagged.length>1?"s":""]))) {\n for (var i=0;i<tagged.length;i++) {\n store.removeTag(tagged[i].title,title);\n store.addTag(tagged[i].title,newTitle);\n // if tiddler is visible refresh it to show updated tag\n story.refreshTiddler(tagged[i].title,false,true);\n }\n }\n if (!this.tiddlerExists(title) && newBody == "") {\n // dont create unwanted tiddler\n return null;\n }\n }\n return this.saveTiddler_orig_tagrename(title,newTitle,newBody,modifier,modified,tags);\n}\n\n//}}}\n\n

!!!Other name:\nNone. \n!!!Description:\nThis nonmetallic element exists in different forms: (1) amorphous, (2) crystalline or red, and (3) gray or metallic. \nAmorphous: The dark red to black powder softens at 40 to 60°C, producing a vitreous mass upon cooling. \nCrystalline or red: Cooling molten selenium produces dark red transparent crystals, melting at 144°C to form a brownish red liquid, and changing into the gray or metallic form upon heating. The dark red crystals are soluble in dilute water solutions of caustic alkali or in potassium sulfite solution. \nGray or metallic: The gray to black crystals with a metallic luster are the most stable form of elemental selenium and are insoluble in alcohol or water but soluble in ether. \n!!!Precautions:\nKeep container tightly closed. Use only with adequate ventilation. Do not inhale the dust, gasses, vapors, or fumes of the element or its compounds. Avoid contact with eyes or skin as irritation may result. Wear safety goggles and rubber or similar gloves. Change gloves frequently as they may become saturated with selenium or its salts. Do not eat or smoke while working. Do not swallow. \n!!!First Aid:\nIf dust or vapor is inhaled, remove from exposure, rest, and keep warm. If contact is made with eyes, flush thoroughly with plenty of water (10% sodium thiosulfate in water) and call a physician at once. Wash contaminated skin areas with plenty of soap and water (or 10% aqueous sodium thiosulfate solution). Wash contaminated clothing before re-use. If swallowed, wash out mouth with water, then induce vomiting by giving a glass of lukewarm salty water (one tablespoon of salt in a glass of water). Call a physician at once. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nFlemish Toner, Dassonville T-55 Direct Selenium Toner, Dassonville T-56 Bleach and Redevelop Selenium Toner\n

<<tabs txtMainTab Timeline Timeline TabTimeline All 'All tiddlers' TabAll Tags 'All tags' TabTags More 'More lists' TabMore>>

!!!Other name:\nLunar caustic (fused salt). \n!!!Description:\nThe odorless, colorless, transparent, large crystals or small white crystals, reported to have a bitter and caustic taste, are available in exceptional purity, such as 99.9999% from a commercial source. The pure crystals are stable in pure air and do not darken on exposure to light unless organic matter is present. For example, the presence of human skin, gelatin or paper will cause pure silver nitrate to turn gray or grayish-black on exposure to light. \n!!!Precautions:\nStore in tightly closed, light-resistant containers. Use with adequate ventilation and avoid breathing dust or vapor over heated solutions. Avoid contact with eyes and skin as eye irritation and skin burns result. Silver may impregnate skin, eyes, and mucous membranes, producing gray-blue patches of pigmentation (argyria), said to require the accumulated intake of from 1 to 5 grams of silver. Wear safety glasses and rubber gloves. Avoid contamination of clothing or use of contaminated gloves. Do not swallow. Silver nitrate is a poisonous compound. \n!!!First Aid:\nIf inhaled, remove from exposure, rest, and keep warm. If contact is made with eyes or skin, flush immediately with plenty of water, making sure that the irrigation of the eyes is thorough. Call a physician or eye specialist at once as damage to eyes can be permanent. If swallowed, have the person drink salt water (sodium chloride) to precipitate insoluble silver chloride, then lukewarm salty water to cause vomiting to remove the silver salt. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nHypo-Alum Sepia Toner, Nelson Gold Print Toner. \n

non-linear html photography notebook

Photography Notes

!!!Other names:\nSoda ascorbate, Sodium Isoascorbate, Vitamin C sodium. \n!!!Description:\nWhite crystals. \n!!!Precautions:\nProtect from air, light, and heat. No other special treatment is necessary. \n!!!Note:\nSodium ascorbate, the sodium salt of Vitamin C, may be used in place of ascorbic acid. One gram of this crystalline compound is equivalent to 0.8890 gram ascorbic acid, or 1 gram of the acid is equivalent to 1.1248 grams of sodium ascorbate. Sodium ascorbate is very soluble in water (62 grams dissolve in 100 ml water at 23°C) but the solution is unstable in air. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nChris Patton's E-76, Mytol Film Developer (Xtol Substitute).

!!!Other names:\nSodium hydrogen carbonate; Sodium acid carbonate; baking soda. \n!!!Description:\nSodium bicarbonate is a white, crystalline powder or granules that is often supplied as 99.7% or better purity. Compound is stable in dry air but slowly decomposes in moist air. \n!!!Precautions:\nSodium bicarbonate requires only the good safe working conditions and precautions of normal darkroom and laboratory practice. Keep container tightly closed. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nMytol Film Developer (Xtol Substitute). \n

!!!Other names:\nSodium acid sulfate; sodium hydrogen sulfate; sodium bisulphate; acid sulfate; sodium pyrosulfate; niter cake (impure). \n!!!Description:\nSodium bisulfate is available as colorless, free-flowing crystals or as white, fused lumps; One part of the anhydrous bisulfate is soluble in 2 parts water or 1 part boiling water, but alcohol decomposes it into sodium sulfate and sulfuric acid. \n!!!Precautions:\nKeep container tightly closed. Use with adequate ventilation. Do not inhale dust as contact with sodium bisulfate causes burns. Avoid contact with eyes, skin, and clothing. Always wear safety glasses or goggles and rubber or similar impervious gloves. Do not swallow. \n!!!First Aid:\nFor eye contact irrigate the eyes thoroughly with plenty of water, then contact a physician or an eye specialist. Thoroughly flush contacted skin with plenty of water. Remove contaminated clothing at once and wash clothing before re-use. If swallowed, wash out mouth thoroughly with plenty of water; give much water to drink, then give milk of magnesia. Call a physician at once. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nIron Green/Blue Toner. \n\n

!!!Other name\nSodium acid sulfite, Sodium Bisulphite\n!!!Description:\nThe colorless or white crystals or powder have a faint sulfur dioxide odor.\n[[Also see|http://wiki.silvergrain.org/wiki/index.php/Bisulfite]]\n!!!Precautions:\nKeep container tightly closed and store in a cool dry place. Do not store near, and avoid contact with, acids or oxidizing agents. Emits toxic fumes when heated so do not inhale vapor. Use with adequate ventilation. Concentrated solutions can be irritating to the skin, eyes, or mucous membranes, so protect eyes with safety glasses and wear rubber or other impervious gloves for hand protection. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nDivided D-76 Film Developer (Variations), PMK Film Developer, Print Developer 130 Adams Version, Pyrocat-HD Film Developer. \n

!!!Other names:\nSodium tetraborate; sodium pyroborate; sodium biborate, Borax\nTwo of the common forms of sodium borate are: \nDisodlum tetraborate (anhydrous borax, fused borax, borax glass, or fused sodium borate) \nDisodium tetraborate decahydrate (borax decahydrate, borax, sodium borate decahydrate) \n!!!Description:\nAnhydrous sodium borate (anhydrous borax) consists of glassy plates or crystalline powder that take up water on exposure to air and are only slowly soluble in water. Sodium borate decahydrate (borax) is available as colorless, odorless, hard crystals or fine white granules or powder that slowly lose some of their water of crystallization in air. \n!!!Precautions:\nThe handling of borax is not considered hazardous under normal safe darkroom and laboratory practice. Do not swallow and keep out of the reach of children who might. \n!!First Aid:\nIf contact is made with skin or eyes, flush with water to remove the compound. In case borax is swallowed, especially by a young child, contact a physician immediately. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nBurton 195 Film Developer, D-76 Film Developer, Chris Patton's E-76, Divided D-76 Film Developer (Variations), FX-11 Film Developer, FX 37 Film Developer, Iron Blue Toner. \n

!!!Other names:\nSoda ash, soda, calcined soda, ash. \n!!!Description:\nAnhydrous sodium carbonate is a white, crystalline, odorless powder that absorbs water vapor from the air, gradually forming sodium carbonate monohydrate. \n!!!Precautions:\nSodium carbonate is a skin irritant, and dusts and mists are irritating to the eyes and the respiratory system. Keep container closed; use with adequate ventilation; store in a cool dry place. Do not breathe dust. Avoid prolonged or repeated contact with the skin. Do not take internally. Wear safety glasses for the eyes and rubber or other impervious gloves on the hands. \n!!!First Aid:\nIn case of contact, use plenty of water to flush eyes or skin for at least 15 minutes. For eyes, consult a physician. If swallowed, get medical attention. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nBuetler High Acutance Film Developer, FX-1 Film Developer, FX-11 Film Developer, FX 37 Film Developer, Raphaelson GPQ Liquid Concentrate, Divided D-76 Film Developer (Variations), Gevaert Warm Tone Developer (GD-67), GAF-125 Print Developer, Print Developer 106, GAF 120 Soft Working Paper Developer, Print Developer 130 Adams Version, Kodak D-72 Print Developer, Chris Patton's E-72 Print Developer, Kodak D-155 Print Developer, WW-1 Print Developer, Polysulfide Toner (T-8), Sepia Sulfide 221 Toner, Thiourea Toner, Thiourea Carbonate Toner, Uranium Print Toner, Uranium Toner (Kodak T-9), Two Bath Redevelopment Toners, Warm-Tone Redeveloper

!!!Other names:\nSalt; common salt; muriate or chloride of soda. \n!!!Description:\nSodium chloride is available as white crystals, granules, or powder; large, pure crystals are colorless and transparent. \n!!!Precautions:\nSalt is noncombustible and has very low toxicity. In fact, salt is an essential ingredient of the human diet to maintain chloride balance in the body. In the presence of moisture and carbon dioxide of the air, salt increases the rate of the rusting of iron and steel, and is corrosive on other metals, especially zinc. Certain stainless steels and monel metal are almost resistant to salt corrosion. Brass, bronze, and tin are somewhat resistant to attack. \n!!!First Aid:\nSalt is not considered poisonous but if large amounts are swallowed, especially by infants, a physician should be consulted. \n!!!Uses:\nAs an ingredient in the precipitation of photographic emulsions; as a silver halide solvent in fine grain developers; as an ingredient in reducing and toning solutions; as a washing aid to eliminate residual thiosulfate from silver images. \n!!!Note:\nThere are a number of compounds called salt that are not pure sodium chloride. Rock salt is mined from the earth and contains 1 to 3% impurities (especially calcium sulfate). Sea salt or solar salt is obtained by evaporation of salt lakes or ocean water and contains a variety of impurities. Table salt is sodium chloride to which has been added a free-flowing agent (about 1% calcium silicate or magnesium carbonate), an anti-caking agent (sodium ferrocyanide), an iodizing salt (about 0.01% potassium iodide or sodium iodide), and a stabilizer for the iodine (often 0.1% sodium carbonate and 0.1% sodium thiosulfate). \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nNelson Gold Print Toner, Two Bath Redevelopment Toners, Warm-Tone Redeveloper. \n

!!!Other names:\nCaustic; caustic soda; lye; soda lye; sodium hydrate. \n!!!Description:\nSodium hydroxide is sold as white deliquescent flakes, lumps, pellets, sticks, cake, or in solutions of various concentration of sodium hydroxide in water. Solid forms usually contain 97 to 98% sodium hydroxide but rapidly absorb carbon dioxide and water from the air. Caustic solutions attack wool and leather clothing, and certain metals, such as aluminum, tin, and zinc, as well as their alloys. \n!!!Precautions:\nKeep container closed unless in use. Sodium hydroxide absorbs both water and carbon dioxide from the air, forming carbonate which lowers the alkalinity. The heat generated when water is added to caustic solution may be sufficient to cause boiling and spattering of the hot solution. Sodium hydroxide causes severe burns or corrosive attack on all tissues of the human body. Protect the eyes, face, neck, hands, and respiratory passages from contact with the solid, solutions, dust, or mist. When handling, wear safety goggles or faceshield, gloves, and protective clothing. \n!!!First Aid:\nSpeed in removing caustic soda is of primary importance if contact has been made with this chemical, Immediately flush skin with plenty of water for up to two hours or until medical help arrives for serious cases. For eyes, flush with plenty of water for at least 15 minutes. If a physician is not available then, continue flushing for another 15 minutes, then get medical attention, preferably a eye specialist. If taken internally, have the patient drink large amounts of water or milk. Dilute vinegar or fruit juice may then be given to attempt neutralization of the alkali. Do not induce vomiting. Remove contaminated clothing and shoes. Decontaminate before re-use. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nModified Windisch Catechol Film Developer, Thiourea Carbonate Toner, Two Bath Redevelopment Toners. \n

!!!Other names:\nSodium pyrosulfite; sodium metabisuiphite. \n!!!Description:\nSodium metabisulfite is the commercial name for the sodium salt of pyrosulfurous acid, an acid that is known only through its salts, \n!!!Precautions:\nKeep container tightly closed and store under cool, dry conditions as moisture causes caking and oxidation with liberation of sulfur dioxide. Use with adequate ventilation. Do not inhale dust or fumes, Keep away from acids because sulfur dioxide may be released, Avoid contact with eyes or skin. Do not swallow. \n!!!First Aid:\nIf inhaled, remove to fresh air. If contact is made with eyes or skin, flush with plenty of water, being certain to irrigate the eyes thoroughly. If swallowed, call a physician immediately. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nFilm Developer 25, Paraminophenolate (Rodinal Type) Film Developer, Mytol Film Developer (Xtol Substitute), Fixer 24, TF-3 Alkaline Film Fixer. \n

!!!Other names:\nSodium metaborate tetrahydrate; trade name: Kodalk balanced alkali. \n!!!Description:\nWhen a solution containing borax and an amount of sodium hydroxide just in excess of the theoretical value is cooled, the tetrahydrate is the stable phase in contact with the saturated liquid between 11.3 and 33.6°C; the dihydrate is the stable form between 33.6 and 103°C. Anhydrous sodium metaborate is obtained by fusing borax and sodium carbonate. The tetrahydrate, is a white, odorless, crystalline compound soluble in water and methanol. \n!!!Precautions:\nKeep container tightly closed as exposure to the atmosphere may considerably reduce the activity of the compound. Use with adequate ventilation and do not inhale the dust. Avoid contact with eyes, skin, and clothing. Wear safety glasses or goggles and rubber or similar impervious gloves. Do not swallow. \n!!!First Aid:\nIf inhaled, remove from exposure. Immediately flush with plenty of water if contact is made with eyes or skin. After irrigating the eyes thoroughly, call a physician or eye specialist. If swallowed, induce vomiting by having the person drink a glass of lukewarm, salty water (one tablespoonful of table salt to a glass of water). Call a physician at once. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nPMK Film Developer, D-76 Film Developer, Divided D-76 Film Developer (Variations), Film Developer 25, FX-2K Film Developer, Mytol Film Developer (Xtol Substitute), Print Developer 106, Print Developer 130 Adams Version, Fixer 6a, Fixer 24, TF-2 Alkaline Sodium Thiosulfate Fixer. \n

!!!Description:\nAnhydrous sodium sulfate is available as colorless crystals or a white powder that reaches maximum solubility in water at 34.4°C, the transition point from the decahydrate to the anhydrous salt. \nThe decahydrate or Glauber's salt, named after the man who first prepared it by decomposing sodium chloride with sulfuric acid, has the form of odorless crystals or granules that slowly lose the water of crystallization. All the water is lost at 100°C. \n!!!Precautions:\nKeep the decahydrate (Glauber's salt) in a tightly closed container to prevent the loss of the water of crystallization. \n!!!First Aid:\nSodium sulfate is used as a diuretic and cathartic. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nGold Toner (Kodak T-26). \n

!!!Other names:\nSodium monosulfide; sodium sulfuret, sodium sulphide\n!!!Description:\nSodium sulfide (anhydrous): The crystals or granules readily take up moisture from the air and discolor. The pure monosulfide is a white microcrystalline powder but the commercial product is often yellow-to-red lumps or fused flakes. The solid is unstable and may explode upon rapid heating or percussion. In contact with air aqueous solutions are converted slowly to sodium thiosulfate and sodium hydroxide. \n!!!Precautions:\nKeep containers well closed and in a cool place. Keep away from acid. Clean up any spillage and do not flush into sewer which may contain acid. Wear safety glasses to protect eyes from contact as the solution can cause severe burns. Wear rubber or other impervious gloves and do not handle with bare hands. Avoid prolonged or repeated breathing of vapor, such as from heated solutions. Use only in well ventilated areas, and keep away from heat, sparks, and open flame (hydrogen sulfide is extremely flammable). Do not depend upon the obnoxious odor of the gas as a warning signal, as the gas deadens the sense of smell. \n!!!First Aid:\nIf small amounts of the gas are inhaled, move to fresh air immediately. In case of skin contact, flush with plenty of water. In case of eye contact, flush with plenty of water for at least 15 minutes. Call a physician or an eye specialist. If liquid is swallowed accidentally, get immediate aid from a physician. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nSepia Sulfide 221 Toner. Flemish Toner, Dassonville T-56 Bleach and Redevelop Selenium Toner. \n

Two forms are commonly found: Sodium sulfite, anhydrous or desiccated, and Sodium sulfite, crystal or heptahydrate.\n!!!Description:\nAnhydrous sodium sulfite: The white crystalline powder or granules can exist for long periods as a free-flowing powder of constant composition, unlike the hydrated form. \n!!!Precautions:\nKeep containers well closed and in a cool place. Emits toxic fumes when heated. Do not store near, and avoid contact with, oxidizing agents. \n!!!First Aid:\nSodium sulfite is harmful if swallowed. Call a physician if any quantity is swallowed or if the fumes from heated solid are inhaled. \n!!!Note:\nTwice as much sodium sulfite heptahydrate is required as anhydrous sodium sulfite. Do not confuse sodium SULFITE with sodium SULFIDE or sodium SULFATE. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nD-76 Film Developer, Divided D-76 Film Developer (Variations), Chris Patton's E-76, Film Developer 25, Buetler High Acutance Film Developer, FX-1 Film Developer, FX-2 Film Developer, FX-11 Film Developer, FX-19 Film Developer, FX 37 Film Developer, Raphaelson GPQ Liquid Concentrate, Modified Windisch Catechol Film Developer, Divided D-76 Film Developer (Variations), Burton 195 Film Developer, Mytol Film Developer (Xtol Substitute), Gevaert Warm Tone Developer (GD-67), GAF-125 Print Developer, Print Developer 106, Brown Tone Print Developer (Agfa 120), GAF 120 Soft Working Paper Developer, Print Developer 130 Adams Version, Chris Patton's E-72 Print Developer, Kodak D-72 Print Developer, Kodak D-155 Print Developer, Fixer 6a, Fixer 24, TF-2 Alkaline Sodium Thiosulfate Fixer, TF-3 Alkaline Film Fixer, Dassonville T-55 Direct Selenium Toner, Thiourea Toner, Thiourea Carbonate Toner, WW-1 Print Developer, Two Bath Redevelopment Toners.

!!!Other names:\nSodium sulfocyanate; sodium sulphocyanate; sodium sulfocanide; sodium rhodanide. \n!!!Description:\nThe colorless or white crystals readily take up moisture from the air. \n!!!Precautions:\nKeep container tightly closed and store in a cool, dry place. Avoid contact with the eyes, skin, and respiratory system. Wear safety glasses and rubber gloves. Wash thoroughly after handling as the compound may cause skin erruptions. May be harmful if inhaled or swallowed. \n!!!First Aid:\nIf contact is made with eyes or skin, flush immediatly with plenty of water. Call a physician about eye and skin irritations. If swallowed call a physician at once. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nGAF231GoldToner, IlfordIT-4GoldToner.\n

!!!Other names:\nSodium hyposulfite; sodium subsulfite; hypo; antichlor. \n!!!Description:\nLarge, colorless or white, odorless crystals or a coarse crystalline powder are common forms of the pentahydrate of sodium thiosulfate that are available. In warm dry air the crystals give up some of the water of crystallization (above 33°C); in moist air the crystals absorb water vapor from the air. \n!!!Precautions:\nSodium thiosulfate has low toxicity and swallowing large amounts cause purging. In fact, thiosulfate is an antidote for cyanide poisoning. Keep container tightly closed; use adequate ventilation to prevent breathing dust; store in a cool dry place. Use the normal safe practices of darkroom and laboratory procedures. \n!!!First Aid:\nIf contact is made, flush the eyes and skin with water. If irritation occurs, or large quantities are swallowed, consult a physician. \n!!!Note:\nThe anhydrous form of sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous hypo) is also commercially available. The white powder is soluble in water but insoluble in alcohol. The solid takes up water vapor from the air. The anhydrous form saves about 36% by weight in place of the pentahydrate and has a better shelf life in mixed photographic preparations. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nFixer 6a, Fixer 24, TF-2 Alkaline Sodium Thiosulfate Fixer, Nelson Gold Print Toner\n

Type the text for 'SomeTags'

//from AnnClancy//\n\nA standard bleach for indirect toning.\n|Potassium ferricyanide| 10g|\n|Potassium bromide| 5g|\n|>| Water to make 1000 mL|

!!!Other names:\nTin chloride; tin dichloride; tin salt; tin protochloride. \n!!!Description:\nThe white, crystalline solid, which changes into oxychloride by absorbing oxygen from the air, is soluble in water, acetone, alcohol, alkalies, glacial acetic acid, tartaric acid, and many organic solvents. Dilute aqueous solutions tend to hydrolyze and oxidize in the presence of air but concentrated solutions are stable to both of these tendencies. A 33% solution of stannous chloride has been reported to have shown no oxidation after 5 years. Even dilute solutions have shown remarkable stability if the pH values (1 or 2) are very low, such as by the addition of 0.25 to 1% hydrochloric acid. A monohydrate of stannous chloride is also available commercially and is used interchagebly with the anhydrous salt. It has the disadvantage of being oxidized in storage, losing up to 15% of its reductive activity in 3 months. Its solutions undergo hydrolysis and oxidation. \n!!!Precautions:\nThere is no evidence that tin compounds, as ingested in food, have any effect on man. Stannous chloride, however, should be considered as a strong acid. Keep the container tightly closed. Use with adequate ventilation. Do not breathe dust or vapors. Avoid contact with eyes, skin, and clothing. Wear safety glasses or goggles and rubber or similar impervious gloves. Do not swallow. \n!!!First Aid:\nIf inhaled, remove from exposure, rest, and keep warm. If eyes are affected, irrigate thoroughly with plenty of water; obtain prompt medical attention if warranted. If contact is made with skin, flush thoroughly with plenty of water. Remove contaminated clothing and wash before re-use. If swallowed, wash out mouth thoroughly with water, then give plenty of water followed by milk of magnesia. Call a physician immediately. \n!!!Uses:\nStannous chloride has been used as a blackening agent for intensification and for fogging silver halides during reversal processing. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nTin Print Toner. \n

/***\n!Colors Used\n*@@bgcolor(#8cf): #8cf - Background blue@@\n*@@bgcolor(#18f): #18f - Top blue@@\n*@@bgcolor(#04b): #04b - Mid blue@@\n*@@bgcolor(#014):color(#fff): #014 - Bottom blue@@\n*@@bgcolor(#ffc): #ffc - Bright yellow@@\n*@@bgcolor(#fe8): #fe8 - Highlight yellow@@\n*@@bgcolor(#db4): #db4 - Background yellow@@\n*@@bgcolor(#841): #841 - Border yellow@@\n*@@bgcolor(#703):color(#fff): #703 - Title red@@\n*@@bgcolor(#866): #866 - Subtitle grey@@\n!Generic Rules /%==============================================%/\n***/\n/*{{{*/\nbody {\n background: #fff;\n color: #000;\n}\n\na{\n color: #04b;\n}\n\na:hover{\n background: #04b;\n color: #fff;\n}\n\na img{\n border: 0;\n}\n\nh1,h2,h3,h4,h5 {\n color: #703;\n background: #8cf;\n}\n\n.button {\n color: #014;\n border: 1px solid #fff;\n}\n\n.button:hover {\n color: #014;\n background: #fe8;\n border-color: #db4;\n}\n\n.button:active {\n color: #fff;\n background: #db4;\n border: 1px solid #841;\n}\n\n/*}}}*/\n/***\n!Header /%==================================================%/\n***/\n/*{{{*/\n.header {\n background: #04b;\n}\n\n.headerShadow {\n color: #000;\n}\n\n.headerShadow a {\n font-weight: normal;\n color: #000;\n}\n\n.headerForeground {\n color: #fff;\n}\n\n.headerForeground a {\n font-weight: normal;\n color: #8cf;\n}\n\n/*}}}*/\n/***\n!General tabs /%=================================================%/\n***/\n/*{{{*/\n\n.tabSelected{\n color: #014;\n background: #eee;\n border-left: 1px solid #ccc;\n border-top: 1px solid #ccc;\n border-right: 1px solid #ccc;\n}\n\n.tabUnselected {\n color: #fff;\n background: #999;\n}\n\n.tabContents {\n color: #014;\n background: #eee;\n border: 1px solid #ccc;\n}\n\n.tabContents .button {\n border: 0;}\n\n/*}}}*/\n/***\n!Sidebar options /%=================================================%/\n~TiddlyLinks and buttons are treated identically in the sidebar and slider panel\n***/\n/*{{{*/\n#sidebar {\n}\n\n#sidebarOptions input {\n border: 1px solid #04b;\n}\n\n#sidebarOptions .sliderPanel {\n background: #8cf;\n}\n\n#sidebarOptions .sliderPanel a {\n border: none;\n color: #04b;\n}\n\n#sidebarOptions .sliderPanel a:hover {\n color: #fff;\n background: #04b;\n}\n\n#sidebarOptions .sliderPanel a:active {\n color: #04b;\n background: #fff;\n}\n/*}}}*/\n/***\n!Message Area /%=================================================%/\n***/\n/*{{{*/\n#messageArea {\n border: 1px solid #841;\n background: #db4;\n color: #014;\n}\n\n#messageArea .button {\n padding: 0.2em 0.2em 0.2em 0.2em;\n color: #014;\n background: #fff;\n}\n\n/*}}}*/\n/***\n!Popup /%=================================================%/\n***/\n/*{{{*/\n.popup {\n background: #18f;\n border: 1px solid #04b;\n}\n\n.popup hr {\n color: #014;\n background: #014;\n border-bottom: 1px;\n}\n\n.popup li.disabled {\n color: #04b;\n}\n\n.popup li a, .popup li a:visited {\n color: #eee;\n border: none;\n}\n\n.popup li a:hover {\n background: #014;\n color: #fff;\n border: none;\n}\n/*}}}*/\n/***\n!Tiddler Display /%=================================================%/\n***/\n/*{{{*/\n.tiddler .defaultCommand {\n font-weight: bold;\n}\n\n.shadow .title {\n color: #866;\n}\n\n.title {\n color: #703;\n}\n\n.subtitle {\n color: #866;\n}\n\n.toolbar {\n color: #04b;\n}\n\n.tagging, .tagged {\n border: 1px solid #eee;\n background-color: #eee;\n}\n\n.selected .tagging, .selected .tagged {\n background-color: #ddd;\n border: 1px solid #bbb;\n}\n\n.tagging .listTitle, .tagged .listTitle {\n color: #014;\n}\n\n.tagging .button, .tagged .button {\n border: none;\n}\n\n.footer {\n color: #ddd;\n}\n\n.selected .footer {\n color: #888;\n}\n\n.sparkline {\n background: #8cf;\n border: 0;\n}\n\n.sparktick {\n background: #014;\n}\n\n.errorButton {\n color: #ff0;\n background: #f00;\n}\n\n.cascade {\n background: #eef;\n color: #aac;\n border: 1px solid #aac;\n}\n\n.imageLink, #displayArea .imageLink {\n background: transparent;\n}\n\n/*}}}*/\n/***\n''The viewer is where the tiddler content is displayed'' /%------------------------------------------------%/\n***/\n/*{{{*/\n\n.viewer .listTitle {list-style-type: none; margin-left: -2em;}\n\n.viewer .button {\n border: 1px solid #db4;\n}\n\n.viewer blockquote {\n border-left: 3px solid #666;\n}\n\n.viewer table {\n border: 2px solid #333;\n}\n\n.viewer th, thead td {\n background: #db4;\n border: 1px solid #666;\n color: #fff;\n}\n\n.viewer td, .viewer tr {\n border: 1px solid #666;\n}\n\n.viewer pre {\n border: 1px solid #fe8;\n background: #ffc;\n}\n\n.viewer code {\n color: #703;\n}\n\n.viewer hr {\n border: 0;\n border-top: dashed 1px #666;\n color: #666;\n}\n\n.highlight, .marked {\n background: #fe8;\n}\n/*}}}*/\n/***\n''The editor replaces the viewer in the tiddler'' /%------------------------------------------------%/\n***/\n/*{{{*/\n.editor input {\n border: 1px solid #04b;\n}\n\n.editor textarea {\n border: 1px solid #04b;\n width: 100%;\n}\n\n.editorFooter {\n color: #aaa;\n}\n\n/*}}}*/

/***\n!Sections in this Tiddler:\n*Generic rules\n**Links styles\n**Link Exceptions\n*Header\n*Main menu\n*Sidebar\n**Sidebar options\n**Sidebar tabs\n*Message area\n*Popup\n*Tabs\n*Tiddler display\n**Viewer\n**Editor\n*Misc. rules\n!Generic Rules /%==============================================%/\n***/\n/*{{{*/\nbody {\n font-size: .75em;\n font-family: arial,helvetica;\n position: relative;\n margin: 0;\n padding: 0;\n}\n\nh1,h2,h3,h4,h5 {\n font-weight: bold;\n text-decoration: none;\n padding-left: 0.4em;\n}\n\nh1 {font-size: 1.35em;}\nh2 {font-size: 1.25em;}\nh3 {font-size: 1.1em;}\nh4 {font-size: 1em;}\nh5 {font-size: .9em;}\n\nhr {\n height: 1px;\n}\n\na{\n text-decoration: none;\n}\n\nol { list-style-type: decimal }\nol ol { list-style-type: lower-alpha }\nol ol ol { list-style-type: lower-roman }\nol ol ol ol { list-style-type: decimal }\nol ol ol ol ol { list-style-type: lower-alpha }\nol ol ol ol ol ol { list-style-type: lower-roman }\nol ol ol ol ol ol ol { list-style-type: decimal }\n/*}}}*/\n/***\n''General Link Styles'' /%-----------------------------------------------------------------------------%/\n***/\n/*{{{*/\n.externalLink {\n text-decoration: underline;\n}\n\n.tiddlyLinkExisting {\n font-weight: bold;\n}\n\n.tiddlyLinkNonExisting {\n font-style: italic;\n}\n\n/* the 'a' is required for IE, otherwise it renders the whole tiddler a bold */\na.tiddlyLinkNonExisting.shadow {\n font-weight: bold;\n}\n/*}}}*/\n/***\n''Exceptions to common link styles'' /%------------------------------------------------------------------%/\n***/\n/*{{{*/\n\n#mainMenu .tiddlyLinkExisting, \n#mainMenu .tiddlyLinkNonExisting,\n#sidebarTabs .tiddlyLinkExisting,\n#sidebarTabs .tiddlyLinkNonExisting{\n font-weight: normal;\n font-style: normal;\n}\n\n/*}}}*/\n/***\n!Header /%==================================================%/\n***/\n/*{{{*/\n\n.header {\n position: relative;\n}\n\n.header a:hover {\n background: transparent;\n}\n\n.headerShadow {\n position: relative;\n padding: 4.5em 0em 1em 1em;\n left: -1px;\n top: -1px;\n}\n\n.headerForeground {\n position: absolute;\n padding: 4.5em 0em 1em 1em;\n left: 0px;\n top: 0px;\n}\n\n.siteTitle {\n font-size: 3em;\n}\n\n.siteSubtitle {\n font-size: 1.2em;\n}\n\n/*}}}*/\n/***\n!Main menu /%==================================================%/\n***/\n/*{{{*/\n#mainMenu {\n position: absolute;\n left: 0;\n width: 10em;\n text-align: right;\n line-height: 1.6em;\n padding: 1.5em 0.5em 0.5em 0.5em;\n font-size: 1.1em;\n}\n\n/*}}}*/\n/***\n!Sidebar rules /%==================================================%/\n***/\n/*{{{*/\n#sidebar {\n position: absolute;\n right: 3px;\n width: 16em;\n font-size: .9em;\n}\n/*}}}*/\n/***\n''Sidebar options'' /%----------------------------------------------------------------------------------%/\n***/\n/*{{{*/\n#sidebarOptions {\n padding-top: 0.3em;\n}\n\n#sidebarOptions a {\n margin: 0em 0.2em;\n padding: 0.2em 0.3em;\n display: block;\n}\n\n#sidebarOptions input {\n margin: 0.4em 0.5em;\n}\n\n#sidebarOptions .sliderPanel {\n margin-left: 1em;\n padding: 0.5em;\n font-size: .85em;\n}\n\n#sidebarOptions .sliderPanel a {\n font-weight: bold;\n display: inline;\n padding: 0;\n}\n\n#sidebarOptions .sliderPanel input {\n margin: 0 0 .3em 0;\n}\n/*}}}*/\n/***\n''Sidebar tabs'' /%-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------%/\n***/\n/*{{{*/\n\n#sidebarTabs .tabContents {\n width: 15em;\n overflow: hidden;\n}\n\n/*}}}*/\n/***\n!Message area /%==================================================%/\n***/\n/*{{{*/\n#messageArea {\nposition:absolute; top:0; right:0; margin: 0.5em; padding: 0.5em;\n}\n\n*[id='messageArea'] {\nposition:fixed !important; z-index:99;}\n\n.messageToolbar {\ndisplay: block;\ntext-align: right;\n}\n\n#messageArea a{\n text-decoration: underline;\n}\n/*}}}*/\n/***\n!Popup /%==================================================%/\n***/\n/*{{{*/\n.popup {\n font-size: .9em;\n padding: 0.2em;\n list-style: none;\n margin: 0;\n}\n\n.popup hr {\n display: block;\n height: 1px;\n width: auto;\n padding: 0;\n margin: 0.2em 0em;\n}\n\n.popup li.disabled {\n padding: 0.2em;\n}\n\n.popup li a{\n display: block;\n padding: 0.2em;\n}\n/*}}}*/\n/***\n!Tabs /%==================================================%/\n***/\n/*{{{*/\n.tabset {\n padding: 1em 0em 0em 0.5em;\n}\n\n.tab {\n margin: 0em 0em 0em 0.25em;\n padding: 2px;\n}\n\n.tabContents {\n padding: 0.5em;\n}\n\n.tabContents ul, .tabContents ol {\n margin: 0;\n padding: 0;\n}\n\n.txtMainTab .tabContents li {\n list-style: none;\n}\n\n.tabContents li.listLink {\n margin-left: .75em;\n}\n/*}}}*/\n/***\n!Tiddler display rules /%==================================================%/\n***/\n/*{{{*/\n#displayArea {\n margin: 1em 17em 0em 14em;\n}\n\n\n.toolbar {\n text-align: right;\n font-size: .9em;\n visibility: hidden;\n}\n\n.selected .toolbar {\n visibility: visible;\n}\n\n.tiddler {\n padding: 1em 1em 0em 1em;\n}\n\n.missing .viewer,.missing .title {\n font-style: italic;\n}\n\n.title {\n font-size: 1.6em;\n font-weight: bold;\n}\n\n.missing .subtitle {\n display: none;\n}\n\n.subtitle {\n font-size: 1.1em;\n}\n\n/* I'm not a fan of how button looks in tiddlers... */\n.tiddler .button {\n padding: 0.2em 0.4em;\n}\n\n.tagging {\nmargin: 0.5em 0.5em 0.5em 0;\nfloat: left;\ndisplay: none;\n}\n\n.isTag .tagging {\ndisplay: block;\n}\n\n.tagged {\nmargin: 0.5em;\nfloat: right;\n}\n\n.tagging, .tagged {\nfont-size: 0.9em;\npadding: 0.25em;\n}\n\n.tagging ul, .tagged ul {\nlist-style: none;margin: 0.25em;\npadding: 0;\n}\n\n.tagClear {\nclear: both;\n}\n\n.footer {\n font-size: .9em;\n}\n\n.footer li {\ndisplay: inline;\n}\n/***\n''The viewer is where the tiddler content is displayed'' /%------------------------------------------------%/\n***/\n/*{{{*/\n* html .viewer pre {\n width: 99%;\n padding: 0 0 1em 0;\n}\n\n.viewer {\n line-height: 1.4em;\n padding-top: 0.5em;\n}\n\n.viewer .button {\n margin: 0em 0.25em;\n padding: 0em 0.25em;\n}\n\n.viewer blockquote {\n line-height: 1.5em;\n padding-left: 0.8em;\n margin-left: 2.5em;\n}\n\n.viewer ul, .viewer ol{\n margin-left: 0.5em;\n padding-left: 1.5em;\n}\n\n.viewer table {\n border-collapse: collapse;\n margin: 0.8em 1.0em;\n}\n\n.viewer th, .viewer td, .viewer tr,.viewer caption{\n padding: 3px;\n}\n\n.viewer pre {\n padding: 0.5em;\n margin-left: 0.5em;\n font-size: 1.2em;\n line-height: 1.4em;\n overflow: auto;\n}\n\n.viewer code {\n font-size: 1.2em;\n line-height: 1.4em;\n}\n/*}}}*/\n/***\n''The editor replaces the viewer in the tiddler'' /%------------------------------------------------%/\n***/\n/*{{{*/\n.editor {\nfont-size: 1.1em;\n}\n\n.editor input, .editor textarea {\n display: block;\n width: 100%;\n font: inherit;\n}\n\n.editorFooter {\n padding: 0.25em 0em;\n font-size: .9em;\n}\n\n.editorFooter .button {\npadding-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px;}\n\n.fieldsetFix {border: 0;\npadding: 0;\nmargin: 1px 0px 1px 0px;\n}\n/*}}}*/\n/***\n!Misc rules /%==================================================%/\n***/\n/*{{{*/\n.sparkline {\n line-height: 1em;\n}\n\n.sparktick {\n outline: 0;\n}\n\n.zoomer {\n font-size: 1.1em;\n position: absolute;\n padding: 1em;\n}\n\n.cascade {\n font-size: 1.1em;\n position: absolute;\n overflow: hidden;\n}\n/*}}}*/

!!!Other names:\nOil of vitriol; fuming sulfuric acid; oleum (sulfuric acid with dissolved sulfur trioxide). \n!!!Description:\nSulfuric acid is a colorless, odorless, oily liquid of a corrosive character available in many grades and concentrations. Miscible with water or alcohol, evolving heat. Fuming sulfuric acid (oleum) has a sharp penetrating odor because of the release of S02 gas. Sulfuric acid has a great affinity for water, removing it from air or from many substances (charring wood, clothing, sugars, etc.) Highly corrosive in water dilution to most metals, evolving hydrogen gas. Concentrated sulfuric acid is a strong oxidizing agent, causing possible ignition on contact with organic materials, carbides, chlorates, nitrates, and other substances. \n!!!Precautions:\nBecause of its corrosive and oxidizing properties, sulfuric acid causes severe burns and destroys human tissue of any kind upon contact. Do not breathe evolved gas. Although the acid itself is not flammable, the higher concentrations may cause ignition of combustible materials. The acid attacks most metals, evolving hydrogen that is flammable and explosive. Keep containers closed except when in use. Use with adequate ventilation. Protect eyes, skin, respiratory tract, and clothing from contact at all times. \n!!!First Aid:\nIn case of contact, immediately flush skin with plenty of water for 15 minutes. Remove all contaminated clothing, including socks and shoes. If small amounts of sulfuric acid enters the eyes, immediately flush the eyes with large amounts of water for at least 15 minutes and, if necessary, continue for another 15 minutes. Then consult a physician, preferably an eye specialist. If swallowed, give large amounts of water to dilute the concentration of the acid. If inhaled, remove to an uncontaminated area. In all cases, get medical attention as soon as possible. \n!!!Note:\nSulfuric acid is extremely dangerous when improperly handled. When diluting always add the acid to the water, never the water to the acid. Severe burns, loss of sight, or damage of the respiratory or lung tissues can result from careless handling of this acid. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nFerricyanide-Iron Blue Toner (Ilford IT-6), Two Bath Redevelopment Toners. \n

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<<tabs tabsClass\nFormulas "Photographic Formulas" MenuFormulas\nMethods "Methods and Information" MenuMethods\nChemicalInfo "Chemistry Descriptions, Resources and Safety Guidelines" MenuChemicals>>

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/***\n|Name|TagglyListPlugin|\n|Created by|SimonBaird|\n|Location|http://simonbaird.com/mptw/#TagglyListPlugin|\n|Version|1.1.2 25-Apr-06|\n|Requires|See TagglyTagging|\n\n!History\n* 1.1.2 (25-Apr-2006) embedded TagglyTaggingStyles. No longer need separated tiddler for styles.\n* 1.1.1 (6-Mar-2006) fixed bug with refreshAllVisible closing tiddlers being edited. Thanks Luke Blanshard.\n\n***/\n\n/***\n!Setup and config\n***/\n//{{{\n\nversion.extensions.TagglyListPlugin = {\n major: 1, minor: 1, revision: 2,\n date: new Date(2006,4,25),\n source: "http://simonbaird.com/mptw/#TagglyListPlugin"\n};\n\nconfig.macros.tagglyList = {};\nconfig.macros.tagglyListByTag = {};\nconfig.macros.tagglyListControl = {};\nconfig.macros.tagglyListWithSort = {};\nconfig.macros.hideSomeTags = {};\n\n// change this to your preference\nconfig.macros.tagglyListWithSort.maxCols = 6;\n\nconfig.macros.tagglyList.label = "Tagged as %0:";\n\n// the default sort options. set these to your preference\nconfig.macros.tagglyListWithSort.defaults = {\n sortBy:"title", // title|created|modified\n sortOrder: "asc", // asc|desc\n hideState: "show", // show|hide\n groupState: "nogroup", // nogroup|group\n numCols: 1\n};\n\n// these tags will be ignored by the grouped view\nconfig.macros.tagglyListByTag.excludeTheseTags = [\n "systemConfig",\n "TiddlerTemplates"\n];\n\nconfig.macros.tagglyListControl.tags = {\n title:"sortByTitle", \n modified: "sortByModified", \n created: "sortByCreated",\n asc:"sortAsc", \n desc:"sortDesc",\n hide:"hideTagged", \n show:"showTagged",\n nogroup:"noGroupByTag",\n group:"groupByTag",\n cols1:"list1Cols",\n cols2:"list2Cols",\n cols3:"list3Cols",\n cols4:"list4Cols",\n cols5:"list5Cols",\n cols6:"list6Cols",\n cols7:"list7Cols",\n cols8:"list8Cols",\n cols9:"list9Cols" \n}\n\n// note: should match config.macros.tagglyListControl.tags\nconfig.macros.hideSomeTags.tagsToHide = [\n "sortByTitle",\n "sortByCreated",\n "sortByModified",\n "sortDesc",\n "sortAsc",\n "hideTagged",\n "showTagged",\n "noGroupByTag",\n "groupByTag",\n "list1Cols",\n "list2Cols",\n "list3Cols",\n "list4Cols",\n "list5Cols",\n "list6Cols",\n "list7Cols",\n "list8Cols",\n "list9Cols"\n];\n\n\n//}}}\n/***\n\n!Utils\n***/\n//{{{\n// from Eric\nfunction isTagged(title,tag) {\n var t=store.getTiddler(title); if (!t) return false;\n return (t.tags.find(tag)!=null);\n}\n\n// from Eric\nfunction toggleTag(title,tag) {\n var t=store.getTiddler(title); if (!t || !t.tags) return;\n if (t.tags.find(tag)==null) t.tags.push(tag);\n else t.tags.splice(t.tags.find(tag),1);\n}\n\nfunction addTag(title,tag) {\n var t=store.getTiddler(title); if (!t || !t.tags) return;\n t.tags.push(tag);\n}\n\nfunction removeTag(title,tag) {\n var t=store.getTiddler(title); if (!t || !t.tags) return;\n if (t.tags.find(tag)!=null) t.tags.splice(t.tags.find(tag),1);\n}\n\n// from Udo\nArray.prototype.indexOf = function(item) {\n for (var i = 0; i < this.length; i++) {\n if (this[i] == item) {\n return i;\n }\n }\n return -1;\n};\nArray.prototype.contains = function(item) {\n return (this.indexOf(item) >= 0);\n}\n//}}}\n/***\n\n!tagglyList\ndisplays a list of tagged tiddlers. \nparameters are sortField and sortOrder\n***/\n//{{{\n\n// not used at the moment...\nfunction sortedListOfOtherTags(tiddler,thisTag) {\n var list = tiddler.tags.concat(); // so we are working on a clone..\n for (var i=0;i<config.macros.hideSomeTags.tagsToHide.length;i++) {\n if (list.find(config.macros.hideSomeTags.tagsToHide[i]) != null)\n list.splice(list.find(config.macros.hideSomeTags.tagsToHide[i]),1); // remove hidden ones\n }\n for (var i=0;i<config.macros.tagglyListByTag.excludeTheseTags.length;i++) {\n if (list.find(config.macros.tagglyListByTag.excludeTheseTags[i]) != null)\n list.splice(list.find(config.macros.tagglyListByTag.excludeTheseTags[i]),1); // remove excluded ones\n }\n list.splice(list.find(thisTag),1); // remove thisTag\n return '[[' + list.sort().join("]] [[") + ']]';\n}\n\nfunction sortHelper(a,b) {\n if (a == b) return 0;\n else if (a < b) return -1;\n else return +1;\n}\n\nconfig.macros.tagglyListByTag.handler = function (place,macroName,params,wikifier,paramString,tiddler) {\n\n var sortBy = params[0] ? params[0] : "title"; \n var sortOrder = params[1] ? params[1] : "asc";\n\n var result = store.getTaggedTiddlers(tiddler.title,sortBy);\n\n if (sortOrder == "desc")\n result = result.reverse();\n\n var leftOvers = []\n for (var i=0;i<result.length;i++) {\n leftOvers.push(result[i].title);\n }\n\n var allTagsHolder = {};\n for (var i=0;i<result.length;i++) {\n for (var j=0;j<result[i].tags.length;j++) {\n\n if ( \n result[i].tags[j] != tiddler.title // not this tiddler\n && config.macros.hideSomeTags.tagsToHide.find(result[i].tags[j]) == null // not a hidden one\n && config.macros.tagglyListByTag.excludeTheseTags.find(result[i].tags[j]) == null // not excluded\n ) {\n if (!allTagsHolder[result[i].tags[j]])\n allTagsHolder[result[i].tags[j]] = "";\n allTagsHolder[result[i].tags[j]] += "**[["+result[i].title+"]]\sn";\n\n if (leftOvers.find(result[i].title) != null)\n leftOvers.splice(leftOvers.find(result[i].title),1); // remove from leftovers. at the end it will contain the leftovers...\n }\n }\n }\n\n\n var allTags = [];\n for (var t in allTagsHolder)\n allTags.push(t);\n\n allTags.sort(function(a,b) {\n var tidA = store.getTiddler(a);\n var tidB = store.getTiddler(b);\n if (sortBy == "title") return sortHelper(a,b);\n else if (!tidA && !tidB) return 0;\n else if (!tidA) return -1;\n else if (!tidB) return +1;\n else return sortHelper(tidA[sortBy],tidB[sortBy]);\n });\n\n var markup = "";\n\n if (sortOrder == "desc") {\n allTags.reverse();\n }\n else {\n // leftovers first...\n for (var i=0;i<leftOvers.length;i++)\n markup += "*[["+leftOvers[i]+"]]\sn";\n } \n\n for (var i=0;i<allTags.length;i++)\n markup += "*[["+allTags[i]+"]]\sn" + allTagsHolder[allTags[i]];\n\n if (sortOrder == "desc") {\n // leftovers last...\n for (var i=0;i<leftOvers.length;i++)\n markup += "*[["+leftOvers[i]+"]]\sn";\n }\n\n wikify(markup,place);\n}\n\nconfig.macros.tagglyList.handler = function (place,macroName,params,wikifier,paramString,tiddler) {\n var sortBy = params[0] ? params[0] : "title"; \n var sortOrder = params[1] ? params[1] : "asc";\n var numCols = params[2] ? params[2] : 1;\n\n var result = store.getTaggedTiddlers(tiddler.title,sortBy);\n if (sortOrder == "desc")\n result = result.reverse();\n\n var listSize = result.length;\n var colSize = listSize/numCols;\n var remainder = listSize % numCols;\n\n var upperColsize;\n var lowerColsize;\n if (colSize != Math.floor(colSize)) {\n // it's not an exact fit so..\n lowerColsize = Math.floor(colSize);\n upperColsize = Math.floor(colSize) + 1;\n }\n else {\n lowerColsize = colSize;\n upperColsize = colSize;\n }\n\n var markup = "";\n var c=0;\n\n var newTaggedTable = createTiddlyElement(place,"table");\n var newTaggedBody = createTiddlyElement(newTaggedTable,"tbody");\n var newTaggedTr = createTiddlyElement(newTaggedBody,"tr");\n\n for (var j=0;j<numCols;j++) {\n var foo = "";\n var thisSize;\n\n if (j<remainder)\n thisSize = upperColsize;\n else\n thisSize = lowerColsize;\n\n for (var i=0;i<thisSize;i++) \n foo += ( "*[[" + result[c++].title + "]]\sn"); // was using splitList.shift() but didn't work in IE;\n\n var newTd = createTiddlyElement(newTaggedTr,"td",null,"tagglyTagging");\n wikify(foo,newTd);\n\n }\n\n};\n\n/* snip for later.....\n //var groupBy = params[3] ? params[3] : "t.title.substr(0,1)";\n //var groupBy = params[3] ? params[3] : "sortedListOfOtherTags(t,tiddler.title)";\n //var groupBy = params[3] ? params[3] : "t.modified";\n var groupBy = null; // for now. groupBy here is working but disabled for now.\n\n var prevGroup = "";\n var thisGroup = "";\n\n if (groupBy) {\n result.sort(function(a,b) {\n var t = a; var aSortVal = eval(groupBy); var aSortVal2 = eval("t".sortBy);\n var t = b; var bSortVal = eval(groupBy); var bSortVal2 = eval("t".sortBy);\n var t = b; var bSortVal2 = eval(groupBy);\n return (aSortVal == bSortVal ?\n (aSortVal2 == bSortVal2 ? 0 : (aSortVal2 < bSortVal2 ? -1 : +1)) // yuck\n : (aSortVal < bSortVal ? -1 : +1));\n });\n }\n\n if (groupBy) {\n thisGroup = eval(groupBy);\n if (thisGroup != prevGroup)\n markup += "*[["+thisGroup+']]\sn';\n markup += "**[["+t.title+']]\sn';\n prevGroup = thisGroup;\n }\n\n\n\n*/\n\n\n//}}}\n\n/***\n\n!tagglyListControl\nUse to make the sort control buttons\n***/\n//{{{\n\nfunction getSortBy(title) {\n var tiddler = store.getTiddler(title);\n var defaultVal = config.macros.tagglyListWithSort.defaults.sortBy;\n if (!tiddler) return defaultVal;\n var usetags = config.macros.tagglyListControl.tags;\n if (tiddler.tags.contains(usetags["title"])) return "title";\n else if (tiddler.tags.contains(usetags["modified"])) return "modified";\n else if (tiddler.tags.contains(usetags["created"])) return "created";\n else return defaultVal;\n}\n\nfunction getSortOrder(title) {\n var tiddler = store.getTiddler(title);\n var defaultVal = config.macros.tagglyListWithSort.defaults.sortOrder;\n if (!tiddler) return defaultVal;\n var usetags = config.macros.tagglyListControl.tags;\n if (tiddler.tags.contains(usetags["asc"])) return "asc";\n else if (tiddler.tags.contains(usetags["desc"])) return "desc";\n else return defaultVal;\n}\n\nfunction getHideState(title) {\n var tiddler = store.getTiddler(title);\n var defaultVal = config.macros.tagglyListWithSort.defaults.hideState;\n if (!tiddler) return defaultVal;\n var usetags = config.macros.tagglyListControl.tags;\n if (tiddler.tags.contains(usetags["hide"])) return "hide";\n else if (tiddler.tags.contains(usetags["show"])) return "show";\n else return defaultVal;\n}\n\nfunction getGroupState(title) {\n var tiddler = store.getTiddler(title);\n var defaultVal = config.macros.tagglyListWithSort.defaults.groupState;\n if (!tiddler) return defaultVal;\n var usetags = config.macros.tagglyListControl.tags;\n if (tiddler.tags.contains(usetags["group"])) return "group";\n else if (tiddler.tags.contains(usetags["nogroup"])) return "nogroup";\n else return defaultVal;\n}\n\nfunction getNumCols(title) {\n var tiddler = store.getTiddler(title);\n var defaultVal = config.macros.tagglyListWithSort.defaults.numCols; // an int\n if (!tiddler) return defaultVal;\n var usetags = config.macros.tagglyListControl.tags;\n for (var i=1;i<=config.macros.tagglyListWithSort.maxCols;i++)\n if (tiddler.tags.contains(usetags["cols"+i])) return i;\n return defaultVal;\n}\n\n\nfunction getSortLabel(title,which) {\n // TODO. the strings here should be definable in config\n var by = getSortBy(title);\n var order = getSortOrder(title);\n var hide = getHideState(title);\n var group = getGroupState(title);\n if (which == "hide") return (hide == "show" ? "−" : "+"); // 0x25b8;\n else if (which == "group") return (group == "group" ? "normal" : "grouped");\n else if (which == "cols") return "cols±"; // ±\n else if (by == which) return which + (order == "asc" ? "↓" : "↑"); // ↑ ↓\n else return which;\n}\n\nfunction handleSortClick(title,which) {\n var currentSortBy = getSortBy(title);\n var currentSortOrder = getSortOrder(title);\n var currentHideState = getHideState(title);\n var currentGroupState = getGroupState(title);\n var currentNumCols = getNumCols(title);\n\n var tags = config.macros.tagglyListControl.tags;\n\n // if it doesn't exist, lets create it..\n if (!store.getTiddler(title))\n store.saveTiddler(title,title,"",config.options.txtUserName,new Date(),null);\n\n if (which == "hide") {\n // toggle hide state\n var newHideState = (currentHideState == "hide" ? "show" : "hide");\n removeTag(title,tags[currentHideState]);\n if (newHideState != config.macros.tagglyListWithSort.defaults.hideState)\n toggleTag(title,tags[newHideState]);\n }\n else if (which == "group") {\n // toggle hide state\n var newGroupState = (currentGroupState == "group" ? "nogroup" : "group");\n removeTag(title,tags[currentGroupState]);\n if (newGroupState != config.macros.tagglyListWithSort.defaults.groupState)\n toggleTag(title,tags[newGroupState]);\n }\n else if (which == "cols") {\n // toggle num cols\n var newNumCols = currentNumCols + 1; // confusing. currentNumCols is an int\n if (newNumCols > config.macros.tagglyListWithSort.maxCols || newNumCols > store.getTaggedTiddlers(title).length)\n newNumCols = 1;\n removeTag(title,tags["cols"+currentNumCols]);\n if (("cols"+newNumCols) != config.macros.tagglyListWithSort.defaults.groupState)\n toggleTag(title,tags["cols"+newNumCols]);\n }\n else if (currentSortBy == which) {\n // toggle sort order\n var newSortOrder = (currentSortOrder == "asc" ? "desc" : "asc");\n removeTag(title,tags[currentSortOrder]);\n if (newSortOrder != config.macros.tagglyListWithSort.defaults.sortOrder)\n toggleTag(title,tags[newSortOrder]);\n }\n else {\n // change sortBy only\n removeTag(title,tags["title"]);\n removeTag(title,tags["created"]);\n removeTag(title,tags["modified"]);\n\n if (which != config.macros.tagglyListWithSort.defaults.sortBy)\n toggleTag(title,tags[which]);\n }\n\n store.setDirty(true); // save is required now.\n story.refreshTiddler(title,false,true); // force=true\n}\n\nconfig.macros.tagglyListControl.handler = function (place,macroName,params,wikifier,paramString,tiddler) {\n var onclick = function(e) {\n if (!e) var e = window.event;\n handleSortClick(tiddler.title,params[0]);\n e.cancelBubble = true;\n if (e.stopPropagation) e.stopPropagation();\n return false;\n };\n createTiddlyButton(place,getSortLabel(tiddler.title,params[0]),"Click to change sort options",onclick,params[0]=="hide"?"hidebutton":"button");\n}\n//}}}\n/***\n\n!tagglyListWithSort\nput it all together..\n***/\n//{{{\nconfig.macros.tagglyListWithSort.handler = function (place,macroName,params,wikifier,paramString,tiddler) {\n if (tiddler && store.getTaggedTiddlers(tiddler.title).length > 0)\n // todo make this readable\n wikify(\n "<<tagglyListControl hide>>"+\n (getHideState(tiddler.title) != "hide" ? \n '<html><span class="tagglyLabel">'+config.macros.tagglyList.label.format([tiddler.title])+' </span></html>'+\n "<<tagglyListControl title>><<tagglyListControl modified>><<tagglyListControl created>><<tagglyListControl group>>"+(getGroupState(tiddler.title)=="group"?"":"<<tagglyListControl cols>>")+"\sn" + \n "<<tagglyList" + (getGroupState(tiddler.title)=="group"?"ByTag ":" ") + getSortBy(tiddler.title)+" "+getSortOrder(tiddler.title)+" "+getNumCols(tiddler.title)+">>" // hacky\n // + \sn----\sn" +\n //"<<tagglyList "+getSortBy(tiddler.title)+" "+getSortOrder(tiddler.title)+">>"\n : ""),\n place,null,tiddler);\n}\n\nconfig.macros.tagglyTagging = { handler: config.macros.tagglyListWithSort.handler };\n\n\n//}}}\n/***\n\n!hideSomeTags\nSo we don't see the sort tags.\n(note, they are still there when you edit. Will that be too annoying?\n***/\n//{{{\n\n// based on tags.handler\nconfig.macros.hideSomeTags.handler = function(place,macroName,params,wikifier,paramString,tiddler) {\n var theList = createTiddlyElement(place,"ul");\n if(params[0] && store.tiddlerExists[params[0]])\n tiddler = store.getTiddler(params[0]);\n var lingo = config.views.wikified.tag;\n var prompt = tiddler.tags.length == 0 ? lingo.labelNoTags : lingo.labelTags;\n createTiddlyElement(theList,"li",null,"listTitle",prompt.format([tiddler.title]));\n for(var t=0; t<tiddler.tags.length; t++)\n if (!this.tagsToHide.contains(tiddler.tags[t])) // this is the only difference from tags.handler...\n createTagButton(createTiddlyElement(theList,"li"),tiddler.tags[t],tiddler.title);\n\n}\n\n//}}}\n/***\n\n!Refresh everything when we save a tiddler. So the tagged lists never get stale. Is this too slow???\n***/\n//{{{\n\nfunction refreshAllVisible() {\n story.forEachTiddler(function(title,element) {\n if (element.getAttribute("dirty") != "true") \n story.refreshTiddler(title,false,true);\n });\n}\n\nstory.saveTiddler_orig_mptw = story.saveTiddler;\nstory.saveTiddler = function(title,minorUpdate) {\n var result = this.saveTiddler_orig_mptw(title,minorUpdate);\n refreshAllVisible();\n return result;\n}\n\nstore.removeTiddler_orig_mptw = store.removeTiddler;\nstore.removeTiddler = function(title) {\n this.removeTiddler_orig_mptw(title);\n refreshAllVisible();\n}\n\nconfig.shadowTiddlers.TagglyTaggingStyles = "/***\snTo use, add {{{[[TagglyTaggingStyles]]}}} to your StyleSheet tiddler, or you can just paste the CSS in directly. See also ViewTemplate, EditTemplate and TagglyTagging.\sn***/\sn/*{{{*/\sn.tagglyTagged li.listTitle { display:none;}\sn.tagglyTagged li { display: inline; font-size:90%; }\sn.tagglyTagged ul { margin:0px; padding:0px; }\sn.tagglyTagging { padding-top:0.5em; }\sn.tagglyTagging li.listTitle { display:none;}\sn.tagglyTagging ul { margin-top:0px; padding-top:0.5em; padding-left:2em; margin-bottom:0px; padding-bottom:0px; }\sn\sn/* .tagglyTagging .tghide { display:inline; } */\sn\sn.tagglyTagging { vertical-align: top; margin:0px; padding:0px; }\sn.tagglyTagging table { margin:0px; padding:0px; }\sn\sn\sn.tagglyTagging .button { display:none; margin-left:3px; margin-right:3px; }\sn.tagglyTagging .button, .tagglyTagging .hidebutton { color:#aaa; font-size:90%; border:0px; padding-left:0.3em;padding-right:0.3em;}\sn.tagglyTagging .button:hover, .hidebutton:hover { background:#eee; color:#888; }\sn.selected .tagglyTagging .button { display:inline; }\sn\sn.tagglyTagging .hidebutton { color:white; } /* has to be there so it takes up space. tweak if you're not using a white tiddler bg */\sn.selected .tagglyTagging .hidebutton { color:#aaa }\sn\sn.tagglyLabel { color:#aaa; font-size:90%; }\sn\sn.tagglyTagging ul {padding-top:0px; padding-bottom:0.5em; margin-left:1em; }\sn.tagglyTagging ul ul {list-style-type:disc; margin-left:-1em;}\sn.tagglyTagging ul ul li {margin-left:0.5em; }\sn\sn.editLabel { font-size:90%; padding-top:0.5em; }\sn/*}}}*/\sn";\n\nrefreshStyles("TagglyTaggingStyles");\n\n\n//}}}\n\n// // <html>▸▾−±</html>

Tartaric (Succinic) Acid\n!!!Other names:\n~L-Tartaric acid; natural tartaric acid; ordinary tartaric acid; d-tartaric acid; (+)-tartaric acid; dextrotartaric acid; d-a,(3-dihydroxysuccinic acid; t-2,3-dihydroxybutancdiodic acid. \n!!!Description:\nThe odorless, colorless, transparent crystals or white crystalline powder are stable to light and air, having a strong acid taste in water but pleasant in dilute solution. \n!!!Precautions:\nTartaric acid is non-toxic but is a very strong organic acid, causing local irritation. Do not allow contact with the eyes, skin, or teeth (erodes tooth surfaces). Wear safety glasses or goggles to protect eyes from irritation. Do not breathe the vapor from hot solutions. Wear rubber or other protective gloves. \n!!!First Aid:\nIn case of contact, wash eyes or skin flush with plenty of water until the acid is flushed away. In case of skin ulcers from repeated and prolonged contact or gastric disturbances because of inhalation or ingestion, call a physician for treatment. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nIron Blue Toner, Gold Toner (Kodak T-26). \n

see [[Thiourea]]

//from WynnWhite//\n|Water| 750 mL|\n|PotassiumFerricyanide| 20 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 10 g|\n|>>|Water to make 1 L|\nrecommended for use in Thiocarbamide Toning, see AboutThioCarbamideToning

//from AnnClancy, and WynnWhite//\n\n|Solution A|Solution B|Water|Image Tone|\n| 10 mL| 50 mL| 500 mL|Purple-brown|\n| 20 mL| 40 mL| 500 mL|Cold-brown|\n| 30 mL| 30 mL| 500 mL|Brown|\n| 40 mL| 20 mL| 500 mL|Warm-brown|\n| 50 mL| 10 mL| 500 mL|Yellow-brown|\n''Solution A''\n|Water, 40C| 750 mL|\n|ThioCarbamide| 100g|\n|>|Water to make 1 L|\n''Solution B''\n|Water, 30C| 750 mL|\n|SodiumHydroxide| 100 g|\n|>|Water to make 1 L|\n@@Great care should be taken when mixing the sodium hydroxide (lye) solution since it is a very caustic substance. It should always be mixed in very cold water as it gives off a lot of heat, even when mixed with water. Never mix the sodium hydroxide solution without eye protection and rubber gloves. Care should also be taken with thiocarbamide since it is thought to be a carcinogen. Always wear rubber gloves and work in a well ventilated space when using this material.@@

!!!Other names:\nThiocarbamide; sulfocarbamide; sulfouren. \n!!!Description:\nThe colorless or white crystals are soluble in water or alcohol but only sparingly soluble in ether. Thiourea solutions dissolve salts of silver, gold, and platinum. Gelatin is softened and may be solubilized. \n!!!Precautions:\nDo not inhale dust. Use with adequate ventilation. Wear safety glasses or goggles and gloves when preparing or using thiourea solutions. Avoid contact with the eyes and skin. Make sure gloves are decontaminated after use by rinsing the outer surface with a dilute solution of sodium hypochlorite (30 ml of Clorox or similar liquid household bleach to 1 liter of water). Then use warm water to wash the gloves thoroughly after the hypochlorite treatment. Do not ingest thiourea. Use good laboratory or darkroom practices when handling thiourea as it has carcinogenic properties. \n!!!First Aid:\nIf inhaled, remove from exposure. If contact is made with eyes or skin, flush with plenty of water for about 15 minutes. If swallowed, call a physician at once for treatment. \n!!!Note:\nThiourea is a powerful fogging agent for silver-sensitized photographic materials. Do not contaminate darkrooms by mixing and using thiourea solutions in the same area where photographic processing is to be done. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nGold-Thiocarbamide Toner (IlfordIT-5), Gold Toner (Kodak T-26), Iron Blue Toner, Thiourea Toner, Thiourea Carbonate Toner. \n

!!!Other names:\nSodium phosphate, tribasic; trisodium orthophosphate; TSP. \n!!!Description:\nTrisodium orthophosphate consists of 43.1% anhydrous salt and 56.9% water, making it important to maintain the water of crystallization without loss if uniform properties are to be achieved. In addition, excess sodium hydroxide may be present, making the properties somewhat inconsistant. The white or colorless crystals of the solid are readily soluble in water. forming a moderately strong alkaline solution (a 1% solution has a pH of 11.9). Trisodium phosphate is soluble to the extent that 28.5 grams dissolve 100 ml water at 20°C or 157 grams in 100 ml water at 70°C, but not soluble in alcohol. \n!!!Precautions:\nUse care, but no special precautions are needed. Keep container closed; use adequate ventilation; avoid contact of the solution with the eyes and skin. Do not inhale mist or ingest solution. \n!!!First Aid:\nIf contact is made with eyes or skin, flush with plenty of water. If irritation persists, consult a physician. If swallowed, call a physician at once for treatment. \n

//from PatrickDignan//\n\n!!!Kodak Developers\n||!Kodak D-23|!Kodak D-76|!Kodak D-76R|!Kodak D-154|\n|Water (125F/52C|>|>|>| 500 mL |\n|[[Metol]] or Elon| 7.5 g| 2.0 g| 3.0 g| 1.25 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, anhy or dessic| 100 g| 100 g| 100 g| 22.5g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 0| 5 g| 7.5 g| 6 g|\n|[[Borax]], granulated| 0| 2 g| 20 g| 0|\n|SodiumCarbonate, monohydrate| 0| 0| 0| 35 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 0| 0| 0| 0.5 g|\n|>|>|>|>| Water to make 1L |\n|Dev. Times| 10-12| 9-17| - | 2-3|\n|Dilution| Straight | Straight | Straight | Straight |\n|use at 68F/20C|c\n!!!Ansco Developers\n||!Anso 22|!Ansco 30|!Ansco 40|\n|Water 125F/52C|>|>|>| 500 mL |\n|[[Metol]] or Elon| 0.8 g| 3.5 g| 4.5 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, anhy or dessic| 40 g| 60 g| 54 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 8 g| 9 g| 7.5 g|\n|[[Borax]], granulated| 0| 0| 0|\n|SodiumCarbonate, monohydrate| 50 g| 40 g| 54 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 5 g| 3 g| 2 g|\n|>|>|>| Water to make 1L |\n|Dev. Times| 5-8| 6-8| 4-5|\n|Dilution| Straight | Straight | 1:2 Water |\n|use at 68F/20C|c\n!!!Adox Agfa Gavaert Developers \n||!Adox M-Q|!Adox Rep.|!Agfa 14|!Agfa 15|!Gevaert G-251|\n|Water (125F/52C|>|>|>|>| 500 mL |\n|[[Metol]] or Elon| 2.0 g| 3.0 g| 4.5 g| 8.0 g| 1.5 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, anhy or dessic| 80 g| 80 g| 8.5 g| 125 g| 25 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 4 g| 5 g| 0| 0| 6 g|\n|[[Borax]], granulated| 4 g| 18 g| 0| 0| 0|\n|SodiumCarbonate, monohydrate| 0| 0| 1.2 g| 14 g| 45 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 0.5 g| 0| 0.5 g| 1.5 g| 1 g|\n|>|>|>|>|>| Water to make 1L |\n|Dev. Times| 10-19| - | 10-20| 7-12| 2-3|\n|Dilution| Straight | Straight | Straight | Straight | Straight |\n|use at 68F/20C|c\n

//from PatrickDignan//\n\n!!!Kodak Developers\n||!Kodak D72|!Kodak D162|!Kodak D-52|!Kodak 154|\n|Water (125F/52C)|>|>|>| 500 mL |\n|[[Metol]] or Elon| 3 g| 2.2 g| 1.5 g| 1.25 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, anhy or dessic| 45 g| 75 g| 22.5 g| 22.5 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 12 g| 17 g| 6 g| 6 g|\n|Borax, granulated| 0| 0| 0| 0|\n|SodiumCarbonate, monohydrate| 80 g| 75 g| 17 g| 35 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 2 g| 2.8 g| 1.5 g| 0.5 g|\n|>|>|>|>| Water to make 1L |\n|Times| 1 | 1.5-2 | 2 | 1-1.5 |\n|Dilution| 1:1 | 1:3 | 1:1 | Straight |\n|| Dektol | warm-black on chloro-bromide | Selectol (warm tones) | Contrasty Doc't Dev |\n!!!Ansco, Ilford, Gevaert Developers\n||!Ansco 120|!Ansco 135|!Ilford ID-20|!Gevaert G251|\n|Water (125F/52C)|>|>|>| 500 mL |\n|[[Metol]] or Elon| 12.3 g| 1.6 g| 1.5 g| 1.5 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, anhy or dessic| 36 g| 24 g| 25 g| 25 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 0| 6.6 g| 8 g| 6 g|\n|Borax, granulated| 0| 0| 0| 0|\n|SodiumCarbonate, monohydrate| 42 g| 24 g| 35 g| 45 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 1.8 g| 2.8 g| 2 g| 1 g|\n|>|>|>|>| Water to make 1L |\n|Times| 1.5-3 | 1.5-2 | 1.5 | 1-2.5 |\n|Dilution| 1:2 | 1:1 | 1:1 | Straight |\n||Soft Working|Warm tones|General|Universal for Films and Papers|\n!!!Agfa, Dupont Developers\n||!Agfa 100|!Dupont 510|!Dupint 540|!Dupont 560|\n|Water (125F/52C)|>|>|>| 500 mL |\n|[[Metol]] or Elon| 1 g| 1.5 g| 2.7 g| 3.3 g|\n|SodiumSulfite, anhy or dessic| 13 g| 22.5 g| 40 g| 33.5 g|\n|[[Hydroquinone]]| 3 g| 6.3 g| 10. g| 10 g|\n|Borax, granulated| 0| 0| 0| 0|\n|SodiumCarbonate, monohydrate| 30 g| 17.5 g| 87 g| 65 g|\n|PotassiumBromide| 1 g| 1.5 g| 0.8 g| 3.3 g|\n|>|>|>|>| Water to make 1L |\n|Times| 1-2 | 1.5-2 | 1.5-2.5 | 1-2 |\n|Dilution| Straight | 1:1 | 1:2 | 1:2 |\n||for normal contrast|for warm-black tones|cold, blue-black tones on chloride|rapid dev|

http://www.unblinkingeye.com

!!!Other name:\nUranium nitrate; uranic nitrate; uranium oxynitrate; uranium nitrate hexahydrate. \n!!!Description:\nThe yellow crystals with a greenish luster by reflected light, melting at 60.2°C, are soluble in water (8 grams/liter at 14° and 33 grams/liter at 100°C), alcohol, and ether. \n!!!Precautions:\nUranly nitrate is a highly toxic compound that causes serious kidney damage. It also represents a severe fire and explosion risk when heated or subjected to shock in contact with oxidizable substances. Keep in a tightly closed containers to and protect against physical damage. Store in a cool, dry place. Use with adequate ventilation. Do not inhale dust, vapor or fumes. Avoid contact with eyes, skin, and respiratory system. Prolonged skin contact should be avoided because of potential radiation damage. Do not swallow. Wear safety glasses or goggles and rubber or similar impervious gloves. Wash thoroughly after handling and before eating or smoking. \n!!!First Aid:\nIf contact is made with eyes, immediately irrigate thoroughly with plenty of water, then call a physician or an eye specialist. Wash contaminated areas of skin with plenty of soap and water. If swallowed, induce vomiting by having the person drink a glass of lukewarm, salty water (one tablespoonful of table salt in a glass of water). Call a physician at once. Treat as a emergency. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nUranium Toner, Uranium Print Toner, Uranium Toner (Kodak T-9).

JohnTSatterlee

AlkalineFixforVDB\nPotassiumDichromateforVDB\nFormularyVanDykeBrown\nVanDykeBrownClearingAgent\nVanDykeBrownReducer\nWynnWhiteVanDykeBrown

//recommended by Don Bryant//\n\n2 teaspoons CitricAcid per liter to make a 3% solution.\n\n*Don't use more or less than this. Too little will allow residual iron compounds to remain in the paper, too much will reduce DMAX.\n*You should mask the border of the print (a least to test your clearing bath procedure) to see if the paper is being stained. \n*Use at least two different clearing baths of citric acid.\n*Once the first bath appears to start getting cloudy dump it and move the 2nd bath to replace the first and mix a fresh 2nd bath.\n*5 minutes for each bath.

//from Wynn White's article on UnblinkingEye//\n\n|Potassium Ferricyanide| 0.25 gm (one micro spoon used for stirring coffee)|\n|PotassiumBromide| 0.2 g (10% solution 2 mL)|\n|[[Hypo]]| 5 g|\n|water to make| 1000 mL|\n\nPrints are immersed in water and then checked to make sure that there are no bubbles on the surface. They are then transferred to the reducer and agitated until the desired density is achieved. Reduction seems to be most pronounced in the lighter areas so great care must be taken to avoid wiping out delicate highlight details. This reducer has a tendency to increase overall contrast. After reduction prints are treated in a hypo clearing agent for three minutes and then washed for thirty minutes.

!!!Other name:\nvanadium chloride, vanadium trichloride. \n!!!Description:\nThe red-violet crystalline solid has a melting point of 400°C. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nVandium Print Toner. \n

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//from PhotographersFormulary//\nSome individuals become sensitized (develop allergic symptoms) when using metol. If this should occur, discontinue use and consult a physician.

//from PhotographersFormulary//\nIn spite of the fact that this compound contains cyanide, it is not particularly toxic. The reason is that the cyanide groups are bound to the iron atom and are not free to act as a poison. The cyanide groups can be released as hydrogen cyanide gas if the potassium ferricyanide is placed in a strong acid solution, however the bleach bath in this toner does not call for tile use of acid.\n

//from PhotographersFormulary//\nSilver nitrate is both an oxidizer (which can supply oxygen to a fire) and a caustic (which can cause skin burns). Clean up any spilled solid silver nitrate with water and dispose of any excess down the drain. Never dispose of solid silver nitrate in a wastepaper basket.

//from PhotographersFormulary//\nSodium hydroxide, as a solid or in solution, is a dangerous chemical. It is corrosive and will cause a chemical burn. Its action is insidious because the bum occurs without pain. When working with sodium hydroxide, wash your hands frequently without using soap. If you detect a soapy feeling while washing, sodium hydroxide is present; in such a case wash thoroughly with soap and water.\n\nThe beads or pellets of solid sodium hydroxide can easily spill during solution preparation. If spillage occurs outside a sink, all of the spilled solid must be cleaned up. Use a damp sponge or paper towel. If the solid isn't cleaned up, it will absorb moisture from the air and form a puddle of very caustic hydroxide that will not disappear with time. Proper technique for preparing sodium hydroxide solutions is described in the Mixing section of these instructions. We strongly urge you to wear both safety glasses and rubber gloves when working with solid sodium hydroxide or its solutions.\n

//from PhotographersFormulary//\nThiourea is neither toxic nor corrosive but, unfortunately, it is a potential carcinogen. Use rubber gloves when mixing or handling this compound or its solutions. Wash the work area, trays, and all mixing utensils with water followed by soap and water. Should a solution containing thiourea be spilled on the skin, wash immediately with water followed by soap and water.\n

!!!Other name:\nHydrogen oxide. \n!!!Description:\nWater is a colorless, odorless, tasteless liquid at room temperatures but under other conditions exists as a solid (ice) or a vapor (steam). Ice forms at the freezing point, 32°F or 0°C, expanding about 10% in volume, but the maximum density of 1.00(100 gram/ml is reached at 4.08°C (ice 0.915). Steam is produced at 100°C at 760 mm mercury pressure; superheated steam may be made by enclosing water in an autoclave and increasing pressure. Water requires one calorie per gram to raise the temperature 1°C. Ice needs 80 calories/gram to change from ice to water; steam gives up 540 calories/gram when it condenses to form water. Water has been called the most universal solvent known and this property is exhibited by natural waters, which rapidly become contaminated by gases and solids. Hard water contains calcium and magnesium salts that are difficult to remove but water can be purified by distillation and redistillation, that is, by evaporation and steam and then condensation as water two or more times. Care must be taken in the selection of containers for distilled water as the solvent power of water may dissolve parts of the containers, especially free alkali in glass. \n!!!Precautions:\nKeep purified water in tightly closed containers to prevent atmospheric contamination or loss by evaporation. Do not allow water to freeze in containers that may be ruptured by the expansion of ice. Do not allow boiling water to contact eyes or skin. Do not inhale steam. \n!!!First Aid:\nWater is an essential nutrient for human life but protect against exposure to boiling water and steam. Wear safety glasses or goggles and rubber or protective gloves when handling heated water. \n!!!Photographic Formulas:\nFilm Developers, Paper Developers, Fixers, Paper Toners. \n

@@Use a weak bath of fixer for PseudoLith; watch closely as fixer will bleach out the image@@\n\n|Water| 750 mL|\n|SodiumThiosulfate| 60 g|\n|SodiumCarbonate| 3 g|\n|>|Water to complete1 L|

http://www.wynnwhitephoto.com/

//from Wynn White's article on UnblinkingEye//\n\nsame Formula as FormularyVanDykeBrown